Caromal Colours

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(No part of this blog may be copied )

 If you are here to find EASY products to refinish your kitchen cabinets, then you’ve come to the right place!  I am an Independent Rep for Caromal Colours and my blog is the best online source you’ll find for ideas and inspiration.   I love their paints and believe in what customers can do with them.   When people SEE their paints in action they are sold.  That makes sense,  most people are visual – we want to see how easy it,  and see the finish result.

With that said,  as a Rep I do NOT get paid a salary from Caromal Colours.   So how am I compensated?    If you decide you want to use their paints you need to order them from me.   I am a fully stocked retailer.  I HAVE a store.  I SHIP daily.  My time and effort spent creating these posts, blogging about my experiences with Caromal paints,  sharing all the cool stuff that can be done with them, responding to your questions and emails –  is on my own time.

If you order from my store http://shop.fabfinisher.com and use PattyH in the coupon code you get $2 off shipping.   If your order is $75 or more and you use PattyH5 in the code code you get $5 off shipping.  And best of all, I earn full credit!

YAY!

If you mistakenly order from the main company (and use my rep code PattyH)   they give us HALF credit for your order, they keep the other half.

Boo!

If you mistakenly order from the main company and forget to use the PattyH code?  I get zero and they take full credit.  We could have corresponded for hours, your reason for wanting to try the paints could be because of the help you received from me, yet I get nothing, and they gain a new customer…

DOUBLE BOO!

Bottom line?   If you decide to try Caromal paints? Order them from me,  you wont find someone more willing to help you along the way,  I throw in extras with bigger orders or repeat customers,  and I offer a huge variety of samplers sizes, as well as other really cool products that give you other finishing options.     SHOP.FABFINISHER.COM

Now, on to the fun stuff….

TEXTURED BASECOATS/CHIPPING CREME/TONER:

The Textured Basecoats come in 13 colors

Wisteria, Parchment, Putty, Mustard, Pumpkin, Paprika, Candy Apple, Baybery, Cobblestone, Colonial Blue, Huckleberry, Chocolate and Peppercorn

The top 1/2 of each color stick has Toner applied

Toner is like an antiquing glaze /stain thats really easy to use and amazignly antiques the colors.

These paints require NO SANDING,  NO STRIPPING,  NO PRIMING beforehand,  the only requirement is that your surface is clean and intact.

They bond to almost every surface – wood, laminate, plastic, glass, metal.  I feel they are the strongest bonding paint I carry.  They’ll stay put even if you don’t topcoat, but most people do so that their finish will be washable.

Textured basecoats are thicker – like painting with whippy peanut butter.  You can get easy textured finishes, primitive rustic finishes, layered distressed chippy finishes, if you choose to use them that way.  But they also can be brushed smoother to create a cleaner finish.

These paints typically take 2 coats to cover, and you sand AFTER the paint is dry to give it a smoother finished feel (and it also allows you to diminish brush marks, stuff like that).   They also do an excellent job at hiding original grain.     They can be rolled on with a textured roller, but this will  leave you with a stippled finish.

Parchment and Toner over Maple Cabinet

Parchment textured basecoat  and Toner over Maple Cabinet

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Parchment with more toner left on (left) will give you a cabinet finish with more color tone. Right side has most of the toner wiped off.

Left edge of this Putty Cabinet sample has more toner left on.

Left edge of this Putty Cabinet sample has more toner left on.

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Toned Parchment textured basecoat, applied over cherry stained oak cabinet.

Top 1/2 Toned Chocolate, medium application , distressed. Bottom 1/2 Toned Peppercorn, medium application, distressed

Top 1/2 Toned Chocolate texture basecoat.  Bottom 1/2 Toned Peppercorn textured basecoat.  (middle strip shows original cabinet finish oak)

Do you want to layer multiple colors?  Use  two colors and some chipping creme in between, and you’ll create a finish to die for!

 To read more about how the chipping creme and layering color works, head here.

Cabinet sample - Mustard over Paprika (chipping creme in between)

Layered Finish-  Mustard textured basecoat over Paprika textured basecoat  (chipping creme in between), toner over top

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Closer up – layer multiple colors, lay it on heavy, brush it on smooth….the possibilities are endless

Toned, BarnWorn Finish Paprika over Putty, distressed

Barnworn finish- Paprika textured basecoat over Putty textured basecoat

Friend refinishes her library bookcase using chipping creme over existing white paint, then Peppercorn over top.

Library bookcase using chipping creme over existing white paint, then Peppercorn textured basecoat over top.

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Layered finish – Parchment textured basecoat over Colonial Blue textured basecoat (floated a stencil in between). chipping creme and toner used.

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Cobblestone textured basecoat  over Chocolate textured basecoat  (hardware updated using the Silver Gilding Kit)

(more of these master bath cabinets here )

Not just for furniture and cabinets... can go over wood, metal, plastic, glass, brick.....

Not just for furniture and cabinets… can go over wood, metal, plastic, glass, brick…..

How about updating your white refrigerator?  Whizz roller it on, 2 coats, and topcoat!

Give your old formica counters a fresh update -

You can read about formica counter updating here.

Textured basecoats come in quarts and gallons, and I sell 8 ounce samplers as well.  One quart covers 35-50 sf , or 4-6 cabinet doors (2 coats both sides) depending on application.  The toner is sold in 4 oz, 8 oz, and 16 oz jars.  The chipping creme is sold only in 16 oz jars.

***

RECLAIM PAINT:

RECLAIM is a thinner version of the textured basecoat, offered in 8 colors

Mocha, Buttercreme, Bright White, Sage, Offwhite, Pebble, Versailles, and Licorice

Like the Textured Basecoats, Reclaim bonds to almost any surface, and requires no stripping, sanding or priming – just be certain your surface is clean, dry, grease and wax free.

The REclaim is rolled on with a whizz roller, it goes on thinner than TB and typically requires 2 coats (though the bright white often takes 3).  It offers the most even finish of both lines, and does have a slight stippled look to its finish from the roller.  If you try to brush big areas you will get brush marks ,its not mean to brush on.

This finish does NOT require any sanding after the paint dries, unless you want to sand your edges to disress.  It dries to a satin-like finish because this paint has a built in sealer.   For exterior use or extra durability, top with a clear coat.

It is thinner and will NOT fill in original wood grain, like the Textured Basecoats. I summarize both as the TB’s being more artsy and creative in their finish look, and the Reclaim being quick and easy – like a fresh coat of latex paint.

Reclaim offers an Antiquing Glaze  which is much lighter in color than the Toner and will not stain as aggressively as Toner

The Reclaim is sold in quarts and gallons and I offer 8 ounce samplers as well.  One quart will cover approximately 8-10 cabinet doors (2 coat both sides). The glaze only comes in 16 ounce.

***

If you can’t decide what color/s would work best for you,  and want to see the finishes in person, we offer custom  3×4 inch wood square samples.   ORDER A CUSTOM SAMPLE WOOD SWATCH – head here – ORDER CUSTOM SAMPLES

***

GILDING PRODUCTS  –   GOLD, SILVER AND COPPER  LEAF:

Caromal Colours also offers gilding products –   transforming accessories, cabinets, furniture, woodwork, niches, focal walls, ceilings, hardware – you name it, into a glimmering finished piece of artwork using gold leaf, silver leaf and copper leaf.   You can cover the whole piece, or leave some of the basecoat showing through.   For the basics in how the leaf works, head here.

What makes using their gilding products so simple?   The first is their Smooth Basecoat that sticks to almost anything including previously painted surfaces, wood, metal, plastic, bricks, concrete…   Second, they use the leaf in a way that is easy to handle and creates spectacular finishes.  What could you gild?

  • A wall below a chair rail
Use scraps of gold to stencil stars on wrapping paper
  • Change flea market china into gorgeous charger plates
Create place cards with guests names in gold
  • On any flea market find
Furniture!!
  • Change a plastic drapery rod into a golden one
Gifts
  • Stencil with gold leaf
Christmas decorations and ornaments
  • Golden pumpkins for a halloween table
Wooden bowls

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GLAZING WALLS:

Caromal offers Glazes (Coffee and Tea color) that are perfect for glazing your walls with.  Each quart goes 200 sf.   Simply start with a clean painted (non flat finish) surface,  roll or brush on your glaze, and softly wipe it off with a dry terry cloth.   YES, you CAN do it yourself!

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INTERESTED IN PURCHASING CAROMAL COLOUR PRODUCTS?

Click on my STORE button below, but before you go, don’t forget my coupon code – PattyH

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306 responses to “Caromal Colours

  1. HI, just saw the results of your Distressed for Success kit on A Soft Place to Land. Wow, simply stunning!
    How can I order it?
    By the way, I see you are from my neck of the woods, although we recently moved up to Petoskey, we lived in Romeo/ Washington area.
    Look forward to hearing from you.
    Debbie

    • I’m jealous, you moved to Petoskey?!!! We had a cottage in Vanderbilt as kids – like our second home. In our teen years, when we could finallly drive, we’d head into Petoskey and knock around, or go bowling. Love it there. Love Boyne Falls and City as well!

      You can order online – no one stocks local yet – I do carry most of the distressing products at my house, because those tend to sell immediately after a workshop, or if someone just pops over to see and touch the cabinet samples – but my house won’t help you much either unless you plan on visiting Romeo anytime soon!

      Caromalcolours.com has everything , cabinet/furniture products, gilding products, wall textures/glazes – stencils, tools etc… Use coupon code PattyH (case sensitive) in the code area during checkout – it is the only way I can get credit for your order, and it will save you a couple bucks off shipping as well.

      I’d LOVE to get the products moving up north – I had one finisher from Gaylord that came down for a workshop and was very interested in becoming a Rep, but I havent touched back with her. If you fine anyone up your way, that loves crafty DIY stuff, and wants to earn some money, let me know.

  2. Found you over at Kimba’s. This stuff looks just amazing! Love the distressed look on all of the pieces. I wish I would have known about this when I re-did my laundry room cabinets!

  3. Thanks Kara… I really like what I’ve seen it do so far – if your laundry room is already done, save it for the next project .. I guarantee you’ll love it!

  4. Can these products by used on melamine cabinets? Thanks!

    • Rebecca, yes these products go directly over melamine. I will be posting a play by play post (wanted to get it up tonight but ran out of time) tomorrow, showing application over a melamine cabinet panel. (thanks to a wonderful workshop attendee that alerted me to a pile of melamine panels sitting at the curb, down her street, the night before trash pickup!) I also have photos using it on melamine bookcase (its 1/2 done) that I will post close ups on.

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  6. Jennifer Patrick

    Saw the distressed kit on A Soft Place to Land. Kimba said there was no sanding involved…is this true? It is the main thing keeping me from redoing my cabinets.

    • No pre-sanding involved Jennifer. After you apply the basecoat, you give it a light finish sand – say 10 seconds a door? , before you apply the toner. Look for a video I am finishing up on applying the products on a laminate door – it will show you start to finish.

  7. what about availability here in British Columbia for your Canadian friends?
    Norma

    • Norma, yes, they ship to Canada. Not certain how far you are from Anchorage, but I have an Independent Rep that signed on from there (she is the SIL to my neighbor next door, very crafty,and was in town visiting)

  8. I just saw the post on ASPTL. I LOVE it. I have a kitchen table with 6 chairs that I would LOVE to use this product on. How much of the paint would I need. Also, I want it to be a black distressed table. The color under that I would like to peak through would be a dark almost cherry wood color. What would you reccomend? Also, is the distressed to success kit the best way to go with a project like this? If so, would I need more then one? Thank you so much.

    Abbi

    • How big is the table? How much area on each chair? What is the existing finish? Wood? Is it cherry in color- like the color you want for the undertone? Got a picture? Email it to me …

      In mean time, lets assume your table is oak – say medium oak in color. If you layed on 2 layers of the Peppercorn (black), then sanded back the edges, and crooks and crannies here/there on chairs, you would reveal the medium oak underneath. When you applied the toner it would darken it up a little but wouldnt really make it cherry red. If you went this route I would order the Distressing Kit ($47.50) which would have 1 quart of Peppercorn, 1 16 oz toner, gloves, brush, sandpaper. Depending on size of your table, and surface area of chairs it could be enough to do the whole set. Or, you could start with a layer of Paprika (brick red) textured basecoat, then a layer of chipping creme, then top it off with a layer of Peppercorn (black) textured basecoat – then when you lightly sand back you would get the red under the black, then tone and it would be beautiful. If you go this route, 1 Barnworn kit would do the whole set – it comes with everything you need, you would just need to pick the 2 color basecoats for your kit (paprika and peppercorn). That kit is $94.50.

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  23. Hi Patty,

    Will the basecoat stick to a bathroom faucet? I have a guest bath faucet that is bright gold and I hate it! Would gilding work on it?

    Thanks!

    • Hi Leslie,

      Technically speaking, basecoat will stick to metal very very well. but the constant change in temperature and constant moisture in this situation may wear on the material over time.

      I have used the basecoat, and gilding, on my bathroom hardware – the cabinet handles, and the towel bars, even used it on old yellowed brass door handles (I DID topcoat) but I wondered how long they will hold up, given it will be touched/used alot. We’ll see, I guess! I figured the handles are ready to be replaced anyway, so this cheap, easy fix, if anything, just bought me time.

      I also used the basecoat and then some metallic paint over several other yellowed brass door handles (topcoated as well), and thus far, those are holding up great!

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  30. I found you through a link from the Inspired Room about gilding- this looks wonderful … the only hard part is to chose the shade.
    If the silver was used on glass, would it give a mirrored finish? I’m trying to get that antiqued/aged mirror finish to use with an old frame.

    i haven’t read far enough to see if you are in my area or if this is just mail order? I’m just south of Portland Oregon….

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  32. Hi…I have been looking at all of your beautiful furniture you have done and love it. I have a fire place which I am redoing and want to use your product on. I saw the one in Country Living and want those colors but am alittle confused. It says chocolate base coat and putty base coat on top of that but the color does not look like it would be the putty color. Did not want to order until I was sure it was the color Putty for the other base coat. Thank you so much. I have a feeling this is a start of many pieces of furniture to come Ha!! If it is as easy as it looks. Sandy

    • Sandy, it looks like you will be doing house loads of furniture – it really is that easy :)

      If you want to follow the look of the renovated Country Living fireplace, then yes, you would first brush on CC Textured Basecoat Chocolate. When that dries you would brush on the CC Chipping Creme. (this will help you achieve the distressed look). When dry, brush on CC Textured Basecoat Putty. Let dry. Now distress using a 150-220 grit – as you sand, lightly, you will cause the top layer of paint to wear away and reveal the layer underneath. Sand as much or as little as you choose.

      At this stage, the putty will NOT look like the right color – it is a grayish neutral, untoned . But when you brush Toner on the Putty basecoat, and then wipe back? It ages like old leather. I love the toned putty. So, basecoat, chip creme, basecoat, toner. Then topcoat – I’d use the Minwax wipe-on poly.

  33. I’ve been searching for products – and more importantly – instructions in order to distress the heck out of my cabinets. Thank you! And I’ll make sure I use the code!

    • Hey Lisa, I just realized you commented about the workshops too – if that town is too far from you, call me and I can help answer any questions you have – cell 313-318-6511. Or, can send photos your way so you can see colors more closely, etc…

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  37. LOVE the changes you made to tired furniture and gave them new life!

  38. Simply beautiful! I’m so thankful for The Nesting Place for showing me this….it is the look I’ve been wanting for my kitchen cabinets…Do you need to put a protective coat over it?

    • Hi Arlene,

      Yes, I recommend topcoating kitchen and bath cabinets. Furniture is optional – just depends on how much use/handling it will get. The furniture pieces I’ve finished thus far I’ve not topcoated – my kitchen island and the multiple bathroom cabinets I did topcoat. I used Min wax Wipe-on Polyurethane (can get at HD for $8 and will do a whole kitchen) because its easy – use gloves (its oil based), pour some on an old Tshirt rag, and wipe down your cabinets. Its quick and easy.

      I’m so glad you found this site too – I just LOVE these products – and this is a blast for me, empowering people with great products that actually ARE easy and actually provide awesome end results! Have fun!

  39. Absolutely awesome!!!

  40. Love it. Working up the courage to tackle a large kitchen.

    • Beth, take it one section at a time. You don’t have to take the doors off – unless you prefer working that way. The base coat will bond to metal – you can go right over your hinges even (yes, I did).

      I just recently did our master bath cabinets – I am VERY conscious of the resale factor for our home – it is a custom home, and I want to make sure I don’t invest time or money into changes that will end up devaluing it (God knows thats happened ENOUGH with this economy!!) You know how that goes, sometimes we do things and it just looks half baked, or amateurish and even though we’re okey with it, we wonder if we made the wrong choice… Every time I go into our master bath I love the look and feel of my ‘new’ cabinets. I hated them before.

  41. How well does this product work on oak? Will the grain still show?

  42. My blog is not yet up and running but I’ve been doing the things these bloggers have been writing about for 25 years. Discovered Caromal Colors about six months ago and they have been booked marked for some time. The tutorial on Kimba’s site was helpful and I can’t wait to try them.

    Thanks!

  43. I’m doing my kitchen cabinets and was planning on using the parchment. The question is…do I use the textured base coat or not? Also, the only thing I can use a roller for is the glazing part of the project right? I can’t use a roller for putting on the base coat?

    • Hi Jessica,

      Yes, the Parchment is a Textured Basecoat color, and is used for cabinets and furniture. You CAN roll the Basecoat on , but if you’d prefer to roll, I recommend only rolling the FIRST coat – the second coat you still need to brush on. The reason is, rolling the basecoat will leave a stipply kindof texture – and it doesn’t allow it to go on real thick. When you brush the first layer on it covers better. Remember, too, even if you roll a layer, you still have to use a brush to get inside the grooves.

      I apply the Toner using a brush – rolling it on, in my opinion, puts too much Toner onto the surface – (you don’t need alot). You can use the Wall Glaze over a light color like Parchment – I have a post that shows a cabinet door in progress http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/09/11/great-method-to-cream-glazed-kitchen-cabinets

      and yes, the Wall Glaze can be rolled on – it gives a much subtler finish. to save time (you’ll still need to move it around with a brush), and you’ll only need one layer – roll the glaze on, then using a dry terry rag, just whip of it off.

  44. oooo, oooo, oooo. I hope I win! I NEED to paint my kitchen cabinets so so badly. This looks awesome.

  45. Thanks for showing this! I have been dreaming of painting my kitchen cabinets and kids bathroom cabinets to get rid of that builder basic oak. I have a love for repainting furniture so this will be great. Can’t wait to order some and get started!

    • I hear ya… we bought this house, 2nd owners, and the builder did all the bathrooms in oak painted offwhite. Over the years we’ve been here (9) it started to take on a peachy funk color – I couldn’t wait to do something with them…

  46. Wow, sooo excited to find you. Got to your from Nesting place (hopefully I will win the contest… but chances are I might be buying from you! Looking to redo my builder basic kitchen cabinets. You don’t have to strip or sand stained cabinets to user your product?

  47. i am about to redo my kitchen cabinets. so glad to see this product. definitely going to look into this.

  48. Hi!
    I LOVE this product and can’t wait to get my hands on it! I’d love to do my kitchen cabinets but am going to test my skill level out on a bench we have first. I’m praying it will ship to Canada!
    Krista

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  64. I love the pumpkin color basecoat, do you have express shipping? And is it possible to know the name of the granite that jar is sitting on?

    • Hi Jodie. Well, if you lived in the Detroit area you could get it really quick :) , otherwise you will need to order from the CC Store – they do offer various forms of shipping – actually all the shipping rates will pop up – you could choose a faster method, but of course it will be pricier. The granite? That is my counter -its called Red Bordeaux. The instant I saw it I knew it had to be mine!
      1
      4
      3
      2

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  66. Love the Pumpkin! When will it be available on the Caromal Colours website????

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  68. Sabrina Schneider

    I purchased the Caromal Coulours in Parchment and I am in the process of painting my kitchen island, which is oak. I have put one coat on and I have run out of the basecoat. Can I order just the basecoat and how much is that? I am a little hesitant to comment on how I feel about it so far until I do all of the steps, which after I put on a second coat will be just sanding a little and toner, right? I am trying to let go of my perfectionist tendencies…but it’s hard!

    Thank you.

    Sabrina

    • Hi Sabrina,

      Yes you can purchase just the Basecoat – they are $29.50 each. I’m curious, how large is your island? I hear you on needing to fight the perfectionism – I think many of us have those same tendencies. Don’t worry – it does not look pretty after the first coat. If you read many of the reviews from those that have used, they were nervous after layer one, thinking they’d messed everything up, only to finish with happy results.

      The first coat takes more product, and takes longer to apply, in my opinion. The second coat will go quicker, it will level out the first layer- ie) where the first layer was thin it will cover that up – end result should be a solid layer that looks parchment in color. When that dries, sand lightly, which will give it a smoother feel – if you have any areas that you dont like (like a blob you missed) then sand that more. Lastly, brush on the toner and wipe off with rag. Wiping with a dry rag will leave color richer – more antiqued. Damp rag will remove more toner, but will still leave it in any cracks/recessed areas.

      • Sabrina Schneider

        Thank you, Patty, for your prompt reply. I have faith that it will be just what I’ve envisioned. My husband says the island is one and a half by three feet, but it’s like a big cabinet, so it’s solid to the floor, not like just a top with four legs, if that makes any sense.

        And my first coat seemed to barely cover it and the oak still pretty much showed through. Anyway, I need to go ahead and buy another basecoat of Parchment. Can you give me the instructions on how to go about doing that? Is there a link up at the top of this site? And is there still a code I can use to help with the shipping costs? Once I’ve finished completely with this island, I’ll comment back and maybe send a picture. Thanks again!

      • Hi Sabrina, not sure why this wont let me post below your response below… If it barely covered then it sounds like it went on thinner than you could have applied -but thats okey – the second coat will fill most of that in. If you have any areas that still seem sparse those might need a once-over ..

        To purchase another Parchment, just go to their store http://www.caromalcolours.com/viewproduct.php?cid=19&pid=42
        into Extra Stuff – and pick distressing then click on the Textured Basecoats and order a single jar. This link hopefully will take you right to it. Yes, use PattyH and you will get a few bucks off shipping.

        Look forward to hearing back from you – patty

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  73. alexandra sailer

    ok I am soo exited about this product I am going to do my whole kitchen this is exactly what I have been looking for forever I am just wondering if a gallon of the parchment base coat will be enough I have a medium sized horseshoe shaped kitchen should I be on the safe side and order extra I dont want to be in the middle of this project and run out!!!

  74. Patty-
    I am wondering when the pumpkin will be available? I went to the store and did not see as an option. Thanks

  75. Patty,
    I’m hooked!
    I ordered the paint kit {peppercorn & putty} and LOVE it!! I am posting it on my blog today. I would highly recommend it!! I can’t wait to use it on more pieces in my home…and to homes I decorate.

    Have a very blessed Thanksgiving!
    Kristi

    • Hi Kristi – oh I LOVE that combo — I just went to your blog (lovely site by the way!) and no photos yet! I will keep checking back – as soon as they appear I’ll shoot a link your way so others can appreciate as well. Wishing your lovely family a Thanksgiving filled with blessings as well !

  76. I love the new color. I was wondering if there is anyway to contact you with photos of my wall color and you let me know if the pumpkin would work for my cabinets. I want something more than the typical cream but fear that I am limited with my wall and countertop color. Thanks, Carol

  77. I didn’t see the notify me by email button and wanted to click it. Sorry.

  78. Pingback: The Country Dreamer Gets Caromal Coloured… « Fabulously Finished

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  80. Patty, I’m very glad to have found you and your product line. I’m a Michigan girl myself. I grew up in A2 and now live in Grand Haven, Michigan. We just moved into a new house and I’m glad to have found your product to redo all the kitchen and bath cabinets. They are all oak Merrilat cabinets with a peachy pickled stain. Looking forward to it! Thanks for all your photos!! Inspiring!

    Char

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  86. Hi, I so admire your work. I am moving into a small field stone farm house and I am going to redo the kitchen. I am going to buy the stock unfinished cabinets and used the linen and toner. I have a few questions, should I prime the cabinets before painting with Caromel Colors? Also I know you recommend the wax finish. Will this be durable enough in a kitchen or do you recommend a non yellowing poly since I am going with Linen. Thanks so very much for your help. Pattie

    • Hi Pattie, Caromal’s Textured Basecoats bond to raw wood (and beautifully I will add) so the answer is NO, you do not need to prime you unfinished cabinets first. In fact, you will get great coverage in just one coat of the basecoat. I find that working over finished cabs/furniture, there is an element of slip and unless you lay it on thick, one coat doesnt’ quite cut it (jmo). However, over raw wood/unfinished surfaces it is wonderful, and grabs/covers brilliantly. As far as a topcoat for kitchens (and baths) I would NOT recommend a wax – you want a polyurathane topcoat for durability. Parchment is a creamy color, and using the toner over it will warm it up. Not certain you’d even notice any ambering – but if you wanted to play it safe, yes shop for a non-yellowing product. General Finishes products are highly rated, and offer a non-yellowing poly- heres a link http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6295“. They also offer a wipe-on Oil and Urethane Topcoat called Arm-R-Seal that has excellent ratings http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10928“. I keep the simple Min-Wax oil based Wipe-On Poly handy, and topcoat all my doors with it. It is what I used on my own refinished cabinets, simply for ease of use – with lovely results. http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/wipe_on_poly.html” Let me know if you have any other questions – have fun!

      • Thank you so much for your response. Now is I used old cabinets that have a finish, I will first need to clean and degrease them, do a light sand and than paint right. Also, is there a white color as well I could use. Thanks, Pattie

        • For cabinets that have an existing finish, you would make sure the surface is clean and dry, then proceed with basecoat. No neet to sand. Yes, there is a white color, Wisteria that is like marshmallow white – whereas Parchment is more the color of a white chocolate hershey bar (love the candy analogies ?!!). With either one, the Toner will antique both, leaving a glazed/aged effect.

  87. Hi Patty, My kitchen needs are a bit different than what I’ve been reading on your blog. We have a dark wooden cabinets that are looking worn after 35 years of use. We want to keep them dark, but just have them look newer without dings. The wood used originally is high quality wood. Will Caromal Colours be good in this situation? We don’t want to distress them or change the color. We just want the brown to look newer.

    There was a time when my husband attempted to improve their look by restaining a couple of doors and he applied varnish on those doors. Do we have to remove that varnish first?

    One last question, can we apply it to the expanse of wood at the ends of the cabinets, like under where the bar stools go?

    Thank you for the info. If there is a way to fix up our cabinets without a lot of sanding, that will be great news for us.

    • Nancy,

      No, Caromal Colours will not give you the look you are after for your existing kitchen cabinets. The Textured Basecoats will completely cover the existing cabinet finish – you won’t see the original wood – what you are looking more for is restaining your cabinets – to bring them back to life.

      I do know that if you try to stain anything over an existing topcoat (poly,varnish etc) it won’t really work – it needs to get to the wood, and the topcoat is prohibiting that. I think there will be sanding involved before you can do that. That is not my area of expertise, so you’d have to do your homework for the proper steps.

      The Caromal Colours Basecoats and go over almost anything – wood, laminate, plastic, metal, glass – under the bar -but it will coat it – it is NOT translucent like a stain.

      Hope this helps, sorry it took so long!

  88. thriftstoreremix

    Patty,

    Great work. Your work has inspired me to learn, learn, learn and learn some more. Your skilled artistry has encouraged me to add more Fab Finish skills to my toolkit.

    As I read your posts and view your projects, I have begun to use anything and everything, including fabrics, all types of paint, wood, metal, glass and anything I can get my hands on to give my projects unique textures and colors.

    Thanks for sharing your vision.

    Derrick Douglass :::: ChiefRemixOlogist
    http://www.thriftstoreremix.wordpress.com

    • Hi Derrick,

      I saw your email – I’m sorry I havent had a chance to respond – its been pretty crazy lately. I’m slowly getting there though :) Thanks for the kudos! Patty

  89. I was just wondering if I can buy samples of your paint colors?
    Nancy Strange

  90. Pat it was a pleasure meeting you after reading your blog on Caromal Colours from Frisco, Texas. I could not believe how close you lived to my friend in Rochester, MI. After leaving your home, I finished a dining room table, a coffee table, a 5 drawer chest, an iron coffee table and also an iron bakers rack. I stayed up til 3 in the morning. I completed all by Saturday. Please remember my order of the samples. I will have Tracey call you in about a week if that works for you. Thank you so much for taking time from your busy schedule to talk to us about the fabulous finishes. Maria

    • I am floored Maria! You go girl! I am often accused of flying around like a humming bird – I can’t believe you got all of that done in one day! Tracey must really love having an artistic friend :)

      It was very nice meeting you both – I have the pile of samples off to the side and will work on those next week. If you ever photo the work you do, please send a few my way – I’d love to post them for you!!! Patty

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  95. Patty,
    I recently got samples of your paint colors with and without toner. Can I get samples of your colors with the different color combinations? I love your paint. I just refinished a oak hutch with the pepercorn. Been wanting to do that for a long time but didn’t want to have to sand the whole thing. With your paint I don’t have to do that. Makes it alot faster and easier on my back. I’m going to refinish my oak cabinets in my kitchen and not sure what color combination I’m going to use. Thanks for the great paint!!

    Nancy Strange
    Loogootee, Indiana

  96. Pingback: An Old Corner Cabinet Gets Caromal Colored… « Fabulously Finished

  97. Nancy Strange

    Hi Patty
    It’s Nancy Strange again. I’m going to paint my island in my kithcen before I paint my oak cabinets. The bottom part is all oak and the top of the island is tile with grout. I was wondering if this paint will cover tile. I would like to give it a new look without replacing the tile. When I get done with my cabinets I will e-mail you a picture of them and my hutch. I’m thinking about painting my cabinets with the parchment ovet the chocolate with just a little distressing.
    Thanks
    Nancy

    • Hi Nancy,

      Yes, the textured basecoats will bond to tile – but I’m not certain how well it would hold up on the grout lines – are you looking to paint over all of it?

      The parchment/chocolate combo is nice – in fact, almost all of the colors look nice with the chocolate… Be sure to take before photos – I have a great before/after kitchen to post, but I need to put it together first. I’ll post yours too, if you’re okey with that.

      Patty

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  100. Do you sell Caromal Colours from your website, or do you have to purchase thru retail store? Thanks. Love your finishes. Want to try a hand at it myself. Lisa

    • Hi Lisa, I have a link from my site, but it actually takes you to Caromal Colours online store – http://www.caromalcolours.com they do not sell it in big box stores… They have some small shoppe retail sites, you can find those locations listed on the main website, to see if they are in your town – they’d be the ones listed as ‘certified retailers.’ There arent many. Online shipping is pretty quick, and you won’t pay tax (unless you live in PA). You will pay shipping, but you’ll pay shipping/handling from a local outlet as well. If you order online, and use my code PattyH you’ll save a couple bucks off shipping. If you have any questions as you go, please feel free to email me – I can help pretty darn good long distance! Have fun – Patty

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  103. Hi, I really like that parchment and toner look. My question is how do I get this look over my current cabinet finish. (solid oak with bright white semigloss latex). Do I need to sand them and prime them first? Do I need to degloss them? What is the best way to prep them for the parchement base?
    Thanks!

  104. Pingback: Caromal Colours To Paint Over Old Formica Counters? « Fabulously Finished

  105. Thanks to you, I just used you code for a discount on shipping. Thank you. I have learned SO much form you–much more thatn at the Caromal Colours web site. Wish you were in TN!

    Thanks!

    Rita

    • Dear Rita, Thank you for making my day end with a big smile – It makes it all worthwhile! Keep in touch, I love hearing what people are working on – pictures are even better…, Patty

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  113. Hi, Patty-
    Love the product. Just finished a jelly cupboard using pumpkin over chocolate. Came out fabulous. Soon as I get my camera fixed, I’ll send pics. One question. When you say medium texture are you talking about two topcoats?

    I’m getting ready to order more products as my niece wants me to paint an old dresser for her.

    Sandy

    • Hi Sandy,

      Yes, please remember to forward them to me – I’ve actually got a few I need to share with everyone –

      Medium Texture? By that I mean when you apply the textured basecoat you dont brush it ‘smooth’ and you don’t clump, blob, ‘heavy texture’ it on – instead I kindof brush product on, then smear/smoosh my brush around in all directions, and kindof pounce/stipple my brush here and there, then if its too busy (too much texture or too bumpy) then I’ll lightly pull the brush to lay some of it out smoother – did I just confuse you ? :)

      Another way to define – medium texture is a way of defining HOW much texture will be created on the surface, using the basecoats. So its all in the applying of the basecoat. smoother texture is when you try to brush it on as even as you can, lighter texture is where you might just add a few stipple bounces with your brush tips, medium texture is where you do that but you do it with more product on your brush, so you’re leaving more textural of a coat, and heavy texture is where its just really applied heavily – with bumps/divets etc (this way takes much longer to dry). The idea behind textured layers is when it dries, and you lightly sand back your finish (before toning ) the textured spots will grab the toner nicely and create more interesting areas….

      Laying a textured basecoat is even more important when you are using 2 colors with chipping creme in the middle – those higher textured areas will be what gets sanded/chipped off first.

      Did this help?

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  125. Patty,

    After seeing your website I ordered supplies from caromal colours and yes I did use your code. We are refinishing cabinets in our second home in vermont. I have already applied a peppercorn base coat to the cabinet doors which were sanded down to the wood. Next, I am going to apply a coat of buttermilk yellow milk paint then distress it so the peppercorn will show through. My question is should I just apply the cracking creme to certain areas of the doors before applying the finish coat or should I do the whole door? If I do the whole door does it act to seal the base coat? Over time will the finish coat be worn/chipped away from larger areas than I distress? Also, I left some wood showing through the base coat, should I keep that wood showing through when I do the finish coat so that after when I apply the toner I get a good affect? Finally, anything I should know about finishing it with a coat of liberon wax? I know you say there are “no rules” but I just need a little guidance.

    Thanks,
    Scott

    • Hi Scott,

      Okey, so you brushed cabinets with the peppercorn – and now yu want to paint them with yellow milk paint….

      The chipping creme does not act as a sealer to the base coat. Generally I tell people the easiest way to use it is to brush it on your whole surface. Then when dry brush on your next layer of color. Several reasons for this – first, when you brush color 2 over the chipping creme you then can’t SEE where the chipping creme was. If you try to hand brush it into specific areas, you run the risk of not remembering where its at once its covered. The other reason I don’t recommend ‘planting’ chipping creme is because you run the risk of it looking very planned and not organic….. does this make sense? The chipping creme goes a long way, and brushes on easy, so its not a big deal to brush over your whole surface. Then when its dry, and coated with color #2, you can begin to sand to reveal your distressing – and its very natural- you can keep going to distress more, or stop at any point it looks perfect to you. Not sure how it does it, but once you are done distressing, and you apply Toner, and then topcoat, it does not keep on chipping….

      However, if you KNOW that you are only going to want to distress/chip on the edges of a door, then its easy to brush the chipping creme ONLY on the edges of the doors – then when you apply color 2, and sand, you know exactly where you placed it… make sense?

      One thing I need to mention is, I’m not certain what this milk paint is you’re using. CC will not guarantee that their products will work outside their product line – you are introducing a new product and are going to attempt to ‘chip’ it – if it were me I’d try it on a sample before doing it on a big scale, just to make sure it DOES work.

      If you leave some base wood showing through the basecoat, I’d still brush chip creme over it, then apply color 2 over it- then sand it back and it will look more organic than just an open spot that you intentionally left uncovered. Pure wood spots are very cool, mixed into a finish – when the toner hits those spots it will bite in good, and age it up nicely – gives a nice effect – I’d not do it everywhere, else it will look too planned.

      Lastly, you say these are cabinets – bath, kitchen? I personally dont recommend the liberon wax for cabinets – even Liberon doesnt list its wax as a choice topcoat for ‘cabinets’. Liberon wax is better as a furniture finish coat – for durability, I recommend a basic polyurethane – water based or oil based, your pref (though I usually grab oil) – and I like the wipe on versions, because of their ease of use. here is a good post about topcoating – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/06/23/caromal-colour-can-i-a-vintage-dining-room-table/

      (for this response, I think you owe me photos of before/after when your done :) :) ) Have fun – Patty

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  133. I love the caromal colours ! I will have to check out the pricing as I would love to do my kitchen cabinets over with these paints and techniques .
    Deb

  134. Would love to see more white ish shades in shabby chic look

    • Hi Marty, When I get a chance maybe I can work up a couple samples using white ish tones – it would be easy to create a number on your own – just take the Wisteria (white) and add a slight bit of one of the other colors – like adding a little bit of the Mustard would go slightly yellow, or adding a little putty would dingy it up…. or the Bayberry a hint of green…

  135. Hi there. I plan to redo my kitchen cabinets, and am considering going with the Caromal Colours. I have been doing a lot of research, came across this, and it seems the way to go because of the simplicity. I have low grade builder oak 80’s kitchen cabinets. They are a dark honey color I guess. I put new tile down on the floor which is bluish gray with some brown mottled in. The wall color is called quiet rain. It was supposed to be a light gray but looks light blue in my lighting. I get very little light in my kitchen (WA state lots of rain). I don’t want to go light (although I love the parchment look) because I have children who are messy! I’m also open to one or two colors. I like the warmness of the pumpkin, but I’m worried it would be too orangey. I like the putty with lots of toner too. Have you ever tried pumpkin w/putty? I have laminate wood flooring near the kitchen which is a reddish/orange with dark brown grain. I also plan to cut out the center of my oak cabinets and put in glass. I haven’t picked the glass yet, but it appears a white frost or clear that you can’t see through is the least expensive (I don’t want to see through my cabinets). Last I’m going to put crown molding at the top. I know a lot of work, but my kitchen is really really small. My counters are an off white laminate (can’t change them for a while due to other remodeling costs). Can you help me? My email address is: msteachum@msn.com

  136. After days of searching online for a product that will allow me to update ugly builder’s grade cabinets I stumbled upon a picture from your gallery on google. Ok, I thought, this looks promising…the main problem I have been having is…about 5 years ago, my husband (God bless him), in his infinite wisdom, applied a heavy coat of high gloss poly over the existing satin poly finish. I had been planning on redoing the cabinets and nearly had a stroke when I saw what he had done. I know he was trying to help, but all I could think was “I’m gonna have to sand all that stuff off.” Hence, why it has been 5 years and the ugly cabinets are still there. I plan on ordering CC as soon as I decide on a color/colors. Yes, I will use your code :) Would you mind if I sent you some pictures of my kitchen? I could use some guidance in colors and the amount of product I will need. I have decided on the red, chip, black and toner for bathroom…but I still have doubts about the kitchen. I love the work you have posted.

    • Hi Maria,

      lol, don’t we ALL love husbands :)

      The CC paints will definitely save you alot of time and wasted effort in having to sand those back – please do email me photos of your kitchen – to pattyhenning at wowway dot com (for the at and dot use symbols) and I will give you my input. This time of year gets really crazy busy with my finishing business, so please don’t think I’ve forgotten about you if it takes me a few days to respond –

      The red and black is an awesome combination – have you seen the new red – Candy Apple Red?

      Patty

      • Yeah, I love my husband, but sometimes I wonder how much oxygen is actually making the journey to his brain. But, he was trying to help, so I didn’t complain.

        Anyway, I sent you the pics about 5 days ago. I did see the Candy apple red, but I think it will be TOO red for what I have in mind. Since I hadn’t heard anything, I did place my order tonight…am REALLY nervous. I ordered enough to do the cabinets, countertops (I think) and a gilding kit for some fixtures. Am going to go to HD tomorrow to stock up on poly, tape and caulk…then I will scrub cabinets and countertops. Will probably be pulling my hair out or second guessing myself until it gets here.

      • I did get the pictures, sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner – I’ve been on the wall all week and overdue on other bids – but I did get your reply on its way, hopefully it will all help ease your mind – keep my cellphone handy (its in that email) and call me before you start if that will ease your mind. Patty

        Yeah, I love my husband, but sometimes I wonder how much oxygen is actually making the journey to his brain. But, he was trying to help, so I didn’t complain.

        Anyway, I sent you the pics about 5 days ago. I did see the Candy apple red, but I think it will be TOO red for what I have in mind. Since I hadn’t heard anything, I did place my order tonight…am REALLY nervous. I ordered enough to do the cabinets, countertops (I think) and a gilding kit for some fixtures. Am going to go to HD tomorrow to stock up on poly, tape and caulk…then I will scrub cabinets and countertops. Will probably be pulling my hair out or second guessing myself until it gets here.

  137. I love the refrigerator that I saw on one of the photo pages. It states that it was base coat painted in the peppercorn color. I can’t find any other information on how to achieve that look. Can you tell me where to find the information or how I can get that look? Thanks so much. Refrigerator first then countertops and cabinets next!!!!!!

    • Hi Robin,

      I looked back to find it, and I guess we never spelled out HOW to exactly go over the fridge – here, follow this link http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/05/caromal-colours-to-paint-over-old-formica-counters/

      it is the post on my play by play for rolling out a counter – you would do your refrigerator exactly the same way. Obviously, tape off the door well – the seal stripping, the hinges – and in areas (around side or near handle, if any) that might be tough to roll near, use your chipping brush and pounce the color into those areas.

      If you have a camera, be sure to take before and afters- and send them over – I love seeing the products in use :)

      Be sure to use my code when you order, PattyH , and it will save you a few bucks off shipping. Thanks! Patty

  138. is there a navy blue available in this paint?

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  141. The distressed look is really interesting and is not a look you see all the time.

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  160. I’m truly enjoying the design and layout of your blog. It’s a very easy on the eyes which makes it much more pleasant for me to come here and visit more often. Did you hire out a developer to create your theme? Outstanding work!

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  168. Patty, I clicked the Subscribe by email button. Let’s see if it works.
    Thanks

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  181. My husband and I decided to try and tackle our kitchen cupboards with Caromal Colours – just wondering what is the difference between the country living artisan product and the reclaim product – not sure which one we should order!?!?!??

    • Hi Kris,

      Here is Caromal’s description of the two basecoats side by side:

      thats a great summary of how the two lines compare. Do you favor one over the other? One big difference is the REclaim is only offered in 4 colors whereas the textured basecoats come in 12 – but there will be additional colors added to the Reclaim line in the near future.

  182. Nancy Strange

    Hi Patty
    I have some ceramic cannisters that i would like to use this paint on but not sure if it would work on ceramic. If I can do you have any pictures that shows this paint being used on ceramic and can you direct me to that? I still love this paint I”ve been using it for a year now. I sent you pictures a year ago showing you my kitchen cabinets and hutch that I did. I am now painting my countertop with the peppercorn it really makes my kitchen cabinets stand out more since I did them with the parchment and chocolate as the undercoat. I am a big fan of this paint.
    Thanks
    Nancy Strange

  183. Nancy Strange

    Sounds good thank you. I have one more question for you. Im doing my countertops now and putting on the protective finish but it is leaving brush marks. I am using the polyacrylic satin finish from home depot. Do you have any tips on that or do you know of something else that won’t leave brush marks.
    Thanks
    Nancy

  184. what kind of brush are you using? foam brushes work best for applying topcoats – thats why i like using the wipe-on poly, even though it isnt as durable in one coat.

    heres what i got in searching on the poly – an informative post from a Jeff Monson, Contributor for Sawmill Creek Press:

    Hi Jeff,

    Thank you for your inquiry with the Minwax website. We appreciate you
    taking the time to contact us.

    Yes, I’d say the Wipe-On Poly is durable enough for kitchen use, but it
    isn’t the most durable finish in our product line. The Fast-Drying
    Polyurethane is a more durable finish than Wipe-On Poly, but it is a
    brush-on formulation. Typically 4-6 coats of Wipe-On Poly should be all you
    need to apply.

    Thank you again for your inquiry. If you have any other questions, please
    reply with message history and I will respond as quickly as possible.

    Sincerely,
    Eric
    Minwax Technical Support

    With that, I’d be one to use the wipe-on, and do 6 coats, because it doesnt take long at all – and have no worries of application marks.

    I still havent posted the ceramic pics yet – i’ll try to get those up tonight.

  185. Hi, Patty. I LOVE all your beautiful work. I can’t wait to try my hand at this with our cheap thrift store finds! Question for you: I have a white tile topped farmhouse style table. I love that you can set hot pans straight from the oven on it and that it’s impervious to our two young boys’ abuses. :) I hate the white color, though – doesn’t match anything else in our house and is showing its age. I know that the Caromal Colours will adhere to the tile, but would hot pans ruin the finish? I’m thinking yes? Is there any type of heat-resistant polyurethane, etc. that I could seal it with to neutralize the problem, or is this just not a good application for my situation? I’d like to avoid chipping out and replacing the tile if at all possible (or replacing the whole dining set.) Thanks for the advice! ps – the ‘grout’ is more of a putty/silicone type material – not the sandy type that you’d find on a tile floor.

    • I know exactly what type grout your talking about- and type table. too bad they dont make it easy to remove those tile pieces and update them with new….

      You’re right, the paints will bond, but gads – I’d be so afraid to put anything hot down directly on it . Can you get used to using protective pads? Thats one option….

      As far as topcoats go, here was an informative post i did on topcoats http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/05/11/wipe-on-top-coat-comparison-guide/ but i looked through it and see nothing relating to ‘heat resistant’…. I have used porducts – Aurastone specifically- that use an epoxy 2 part topcoat – it can take heat up to 500 degrees – but it is expensive, and NOT a DIY application… other than something like the 2 part epoxy systems, I don’t know any products out there…..

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  191. Hi Patty,
    Thanks for all your helpful information. Painting my kitchen cabinets in white with Reclaim. I do not want the antique glaze however I feel I need a extra sealer on them. My husban keeps telling me you cannot put oil on oil??? What product do you recommend sealing them with? I would like a satin finish more so then the dried Reclaim. Also, providing extra protection from kitchen wear and so that they are easier to clean.
    Thanks so Much!
    Debbie

    • Okey, so you’re going for clean and fresh white. Once you get your good final coat of white on, let the cab’s dry a good 4-5 days … this will insure the paints are completey dry , before adding any glaze or additional topcoat. Certainly can add an extra coat of protection – the Reclaim has a built in sealer so you’ll see that the finish on it is more satin than the Textured bAsecoats which dry matte, with heavy cabinet use, or young kids, dirty hands etc more is better:)

      Oil on oil – the paints are all water based, you can use a water based topcoat or an oil based – both work. i prefer the oil based minwax wipe on poly, because the wipe on is easy to apply, but for going over white and offwhite you risk a ‘down the road’ ambering of color – so you might want to consider a water based topcoat.

      here is a good post i did on options http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/05/11/wipe-on-top-coat-comparison-guide/ i know the min wax wipe on poly comes in satin which i use alot and also comes in semi-gloss which ive used quite a bit as well – you might want that sheen as its NOT shiny like we’d think semi-gloss is, its just more than the satin.

      hope this helped Ms. Debbie – happy painting!

  192. Hello, Patty. Thanks for that reply. After a crazy summer, I’m finally ready to tackle this project. I ordered a Distressing Kit (peppercorn over pumpkin and used your code!) I’ve decided that since I’m investing in gorgeous paint, I’m going to invest in new tile for the table top, as well. (My brother says he will help me with the project, so I have a little more confidence now.) I may ask questions as we go along, but thank you so much for all the advice. Also, I’ll take before and after pics. Let me know if you’d like to see the result and I’ll send/post them when I’m done. :)

    By the way, BLESSINGS on the new shop opening… very exciting and I wish you every success!

    • the peppercorn over pumpkin is lovely – i’m in the process of doing the same combo over an old desk for my son – being able to redo the tile on top can really open the possibilities – i cant WAIT to see the outcome! yes, please take photos of your progress, I’d love to share that here – and any questions you have shoot them my way – if you need immediate attention and I havent responded call me on the 888 819 1490 number and leave a message – have fun! and thanks on the well wishes :)

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  194. Hi, Patty. Well, the project is coming along nicely. I’m ready to do the wipe on poly! Here’s my questions: It says to put on two to three coats while sanding lightly in between. After a huge table with turned legs and six chairs with spindle backs and all the painting (two colors, chipping creme, sanding, toner on, toner off… I’m getting weary! : >) If you tell me that it really will make a difference and it’s important to sand between layer of poly, I’ll do it. BUT, is there any way I can just get by with schlepping on the two, with a few hours of drying time between? Please, please, please???? I’d love your thoughts whenever you get a chance. Thanks so much!

    Also, I did a test run on a nifty $7.00 nightstand from Goodwill and I think it turned out nice (for a first try.) If you’d like to see it, what’s the best way to send it/post it?

    • Hi Lara,

      I hear your pain on wanting those bigger jobs DONE!

      I dont sand between my coats of wipe on poly, though that is recommended/suggested on the product- I think mainly thats for removing any dust particles that might have flown in during the drying process. Run your hand around and see if you feel any buggers or other things that you’d want to sand out – maybe focus more on the table – i’ve burned myself before by not paying attention, then finding a chip brush hair poly’d in , and wishing i’d have caught it.

      the wipe on poly dries quicker than full strength poly – thats why you need more coats than the other, its cut so that it can be thin enough to wipe out. you can add additional coats within a couple hours, absolutely.

      ooh, yes – i’d love to see – i’ll post it here just tell me what you used – i LOVE those great deals, you can make ANYTHING look completely remade with these paints – and there are so many ways to use them -chunky monkey, or layering and chipping, or dry brushing color over each, or dragging wet into wet, to watering it down a little and brushing it smoother –

      send the photos to fabfinisher (at) gmail.com and i’ll take it from there!

  195. Your work is amazing. I have got a lot to learn.

  196. Deborah J Breault

    To difficult to place and order and cannot find any prices!

    • sorry about that Deb – I updated the one store link so that it goes directly to Caromal Store – that way it is pretty direct – all the pricing is on their site. Hopefully in the near future I’ll have my own shopping cart set up, that is the goal.

  197. fantastic submit, very informative. I ponder why the opposite experts of this sector do not understand this. You must continue your writing. I’m sure, you have a huge readers’ base already!

  198. Hi Patty I have yet to go through all the details of your product and appilcation but am super excited.I have been struggling for years to be able to do different finishes here in Mumbai as and Inetrior designer, I love doing different finishes on my furniture but only work with my local painters and polishers and have used some gold leaf paper work but never really gone into details procedure with material thatis made for the distress antidue looks etc. I mix and try different techniques with paint and polish and achieve distressed polished looks.I am very keen on knowing more about your product and how I would be able to buyitto use obn my furniture.will definitely keep in touch.I will mail u some pics of the my furniture effects if i can soon, and some pics of peices I have come across and would love to know how best to achieve similar looks.

    • Sonja, if you’re interested in carrying abroad, I can forward your into to those responsible from the corporate office. I’m pretty certain they don’t ship to you at this time-

  199. Hey Patty, can I use the wall glaze on my kitchen cabinets if there is a clear coat on them? I really like the color they are but would like to give them an antique look. Also is the glaze water or oil base? And would I need to put a clear coat over it?

    • Hi Cathy, you could use the wall glazes on your cabs even if they didnt have a clear coat on them- it wont hurt them… but – what color are you cabs? if they are wood stained you arent going to get much of anything from the wall glaze, but if they’re white or offwhite, you’d get a little more. The glazes, actually all the CC paints, are water based, except for the topcoats that I recommend. And yes, you’d have to topcoat over that glaze, once its dry. You could use the easy min wax wipe on poly – wipes on like a lemon oil…

  200. Pingback: Looking For An Easy Paint To Repurpose Old Cabinets… | Fabulously Finished

  201. Hi Patty, I’m planning on buying a white storage cabinet because it only comes in that finish. However, everything in my house is either cherry or a dark finished wood. What color/product would you recommend to update my storage cabinet in order to match the other furniture in my house. I would like to update it to a color similar to espresso or dark walnut.

    thanks,
    Irma

  202. HI Patty, I love your product and site, can’t believe I just found it. I have a lot of built in golden oak cabinets that are very dated. I want a greyed down beach wood look like is popular at Restoration Hardware these days. I am fine with textured and layered color, I just want the greyed down color. What are your suggestions? I like the Fireplace Renovation I saw on Country Living and the Greyed Oak on I saw on a link from your page to Secrets of Segreto.

    • Hi Kym,

      Greyed down beach look – like a reclaimed wood I’d guess? I’d take the putty, lighten it by mixing in some parchment, then glaze it with the coffee glaze, which is browner/cooler than the toner. or for real grey, void of any brown in it, you could use parchment and add just a touch of peppercorn, and you’ll get to all shades of grey. You dont even have to glaze them, unless you wanted some depth/darker color, in your cracks and crevices.

      Im working on a shelving unit for the store right now, and its style lends itself to a reclaimed wood look – we based it with a first coat of putty AND colonial blue – both dragged on together. my plan next is to drag over it with parchment, leaving some of the first coat to show through… i’ll sand it good then glaze it with a brown glaze- and hopefully it will be what i’m visualizing!

  203. I plan to paint my oak dining room table and chairs with Reclaim. It has about 3 coats of polyurethane finish over the wood. Will the paint stick to the polyurethane finish without sanding? Should I spray a sealer over the the polyurethane finish first? Thanks so much for your help.

    • that’s how all our paints work, Judy – they work OVER existing finishes w/out all the yukky prep like stripping and sanding. A poly finish is nothing, now if you were talking WAX then maybe we’d dig deeper..

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  207. hi, just placed my first order but after I submitted realized the $5 coupon didn’t take (my order was $102)…. Transaction #: 6WT14745J20586337
    Thanks.

  208. Hi.. I was just on the website. My question is what kind of paint would I use if I am looking to antique a white glossy metal lantern? I have 20 of them and am going with a shabby chic look for my wedding.

    Thanks,
    Betha

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  210. I am updating my uncles’ kitchen. We have ordered new cabinet doors. A Square frame with bead board design on the inner portion. We’ve already painted the cabinets a dark country blue and will do the same with the doors. I would like to glaze the doors and cabinet fronts with a lighter color to lighten the room (the rest of the walls are a very light gray. I was thinking of a caramel colored glaze. Any help would be appreciated.

    • the glazes would probably work very nicely Derrick – I’d try a test area first, to make sure you like how it handles. Once it dries, glazes have some durability but long term you might get eventual wear if cabinets get alot of wear/washing… unless you seal it after it dries…. The best value glazes are the Tea or Coffee , both come in quart size and will glaze approx 200sf

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  212. “Caromal Colours | Fabulously Finished” honestly causes me contemplate a little bit more.
    I personally treasured each and every single section of this post.
    Thanks for your time ,Charles

  213. Hi, I want to paint my spare bathroom vanity and countertop with the white reclaim paint. I am just worried about painting the countertop since there will be alot of water around. Will the paint hold up to the moisture?

    • Hi Monica, i’d say paint your vanity with the REclaim and paint the counter with their textured basecoat paints. Both paints are durable, I find the TB’s quicker to harden, where the REclaim has its ‘cure’ period. plus if you use both finishes, it wont look like you painted the whole room with the same can of paint – the textured basecoats are the ones i grab for counter jobs. patty

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  219. wow! I just found your blog and wanted to tell you – I love it all! What an inspiration! Can I ask you a question? My kitchen has white cabinets, you know those cheap ones where the white plastic “film” is peeling off. It’s especially bad at the drawers. Could I peel all of it and then do an antique white paint job on the presswood that’s underneath? Do you think that would work?
    Thanks!
    Claudia
    Claudia.Shedd@web.de

    • Hi Claudia

      yes you can use either the Reclaim or the Textured basecoat paints – both will stick to exising surface you describe. if the film is peeling off you’ll want to completely remove it, or have it well glued done, before you start any paint application. ive had customers literally peel it off – it comes clean with little effort, you wouldn think so but it does. .the application over the raw wood is easier than over an existing finish -

  220. Pingback: Painted Pieces I Need To Pin – Caromal Colours Paint Projects | Fabulously Finished

  221. Rhonda T Brutscher

    Hi Patty,
    I emailed you abou trefinishing the cabinets in my camper to transform it into a cow girl retreat. I have a quick question, does the toner work over the cece caldwell paints? I think I like the daffodil yellow. I was going to seal it with toner plus ad some antiquing with it as well. I cant tell if the parcment is buttery enough.
    I was going to paint the yellow over dark brown base but since you said I could seal with the toner I think sealing antiquing will give me the look im wanting.

    Thanks!
    Rhonda

    • (I primed them white, so the dark brown was for sanding them dow

      • Rhonda, the toner is not a sealer and will not act as one – you CAN use the toner over the chalk/clay/mineral absorbant paints BUT BUT BUT do not use it directly over it or it will really soak in and dirty up your color. you must seal the paint finish first (we use the APC Topcoat) and wait for it to dry good,, then you can use the toner. we dont have quarts of the johnston daff left ,but do have quarts of APC Heavens Light, or their ellis collection Parchment which comes in pints -

  222. Rhonda T Brutscher

    Great, thanks for the reply here and by email. I think I will go for the butter creme, let it cure the three days and antique it with the toner. This sounds the easiest and it looks like antiquing with the toner will give me some flexibiliy.
    I have some counter tops I’d like to cover in my camper and it soundz like the reclaim would be best for this as well.
    Just waiting for the temps to warm up for painting!
    Thanks!
    Rhonda

  223. You actually reported that fantastically!

  224. I am working on a project for my daughter’s wedding centerpieces and I want the wood to look old, black underneath and a white distressed look over top with just the black peeking through. What would you suggest I use?

    • do yo uwant to see wood at all, or just black and white? you could use either the reclaim licorice (if you want the finish to be smooth) or Caromal Colours Textured Basecoat Peppercorn if you want the overall finish to have some texture and wear- or American Paint’s Cannonball – a black chalk clay paint. Then over top of that you could use one of the white chalk/clay paints – Navajo white is my favorite Uncle Sam is even more chalky white – when dry sand or wet wipe to get to the black. could put a finish coat over it for more shine – or leave matte…

  225. I would like to have it weathered looking such as a weathered barn. She is getting married in a barn so we want to keep the theme rolling. I want to see more white with just the black peeking through like it would be loosing it’s paint. Do you understand? I know this is hard to explain.

  226. Carol, do you like something like this? http://fabulousfinishes.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/dsc_8172.jpg?w=500&h=750

    if so, then use textured basecoat peppercorn, one coat brushed on , then when dry brush on navajo white or uncle sample cut with a little water. let dry and sand to reveal the black.

  227. I actually purchased the peppercorn today and a wisteria white color and they had an example there in the store and it was exactly what I wanted. I think it will turn out perfect. Thanks so much for your time and for your awesome products. Does this work on kitchen cabinets that are not real wood, (more like a laminate). Will it stick or will it eventually chip away.

    • Carol, these aren’t ‘my’ products – Caromal Colours is the mfg – i am a merely a retailer for them, as are the rest of us that sell the paint – unfortunately for me, i can spend hours and hours online, sharing posts, and tips, and how to’s and pictures – and helps to inquiring questions – but we are not compensated in any way EXCEPT by our patrons that shop with us. i would ask the retailer you purchased it from your questions – they should be answering them for you.

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