Contact Me
If you’d like to contact me, you can -
email fabfinisher@gmail.com
I try my best to answer all emails -but depending on my schedule and email load it may take upward of a week to answer.
I get alot of emails for basic questions that can be answered simply by reading the posts I’ve offered in my blog – I have loads of information that I’ve written relating to Caromal Colours types of paints and application methods, grab a cup of coffee and read through the following -
Caromal Colour How To’s
Caromal Colour Makeovers
Caromal Colour What If’s
Caromal Colour Reclaim
Caromal Colour every post
Please feel free to ask questions through the comment sections – I make every effort to respond to those as well!
You can also reach me at my new 800 number 888-819-1490 it has a cool voicemail that actually emails me the voicemail so its easy to track - if you call I’ll know your question needs more immediate attention.
Lastly, if you are within driving distance to Metro Detroit, come visit me in person at my new store -
44972 Van Dyke Rd, Shelby Twp 48317
but call first, my hours of operation can/will change periodically due to jobs or consults that may arise.
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Hi Patty! My husband and I just bought a house and we are wanting to transform our cabinets. I LOVE what you’ve done with all of your example pieces! I need your help and opinion. The unfortunate thing about our cabinets is that they are white and particle board (but fortunately not a laminate facade). I was told by a family friend that they are still paintable. What do you suggest we use on it? I would love to have cream cabinets with a vintage look. I plan on the wall behind being like a teal-gray color. If you have any advice, I’d be so grateful! Thank you!
Patty,
I cannot find where to buy the Caromal Colours needed for refinishing cabinets. Their online store has nothing that I see on your site. Please help.
Thanks,
Amy
Hi Brenna,
The textured basecoats will bond to laminate, as well as particle board – you should have no problem painting over your existing cabinets. Do they have any detail/carvings or are they flat surface? The Antique Parchment Basecoat and Toner would allow you to update the finish to the cream vintage color you desire. If the cabinet panels are flat you will have less detail. check this post I did on using the basecoats on flat laminates – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/09/04/caromal-colours-laminate-cabinet-refinish-video/
If you have any other questions, let me know~ Patty
Patty,
My cabinets actually have fantastic grooves, so I will have great detail! I will be purchasing some basecoats and toner soon! Thanks for your help Patty!
Brenna
lol – you will be GROOVIN Brenna! Have fun – let me know how it goes, patty
Yes I will! Thanks!
Hi,
Has anyone ever told you that from your picture you look like you could be Ellen Degeneras’s sister! (not sure if I spelled her last name right or not)
Anyways, I am a decorative painter that does mostly furniture and I am intrigued by your Caromal product……Did you make this product yourself? The reason I am asking is IDAL is hosting the National Convention in July here in Portland, OR and was wondering if you have a vendor booth at the Product Show? You could demo and sell your products there……
Our group is the local IDAL chapter, Cascade Artisans Guild and I’m trying to drum up some business so we have the best convention ever!
Too funny, no noone has ever said that.. I love her show but don’t like her as an AI judge…..
No, I am not the creator of the Caromal Colours line – the honor goes to Carol Kemery.
I would guess this might still be a lean year for IDAL participation -I know I, for one, is trying to stash away everything I am earning – for ‘just in case’… I’ve attended in the past, but this year it’s not in the plans, with it being so far across the US…. though I’d love to go, if I had the opportunity….
Hi Patty, I have white laminate kitchen cabinets. I recently added stainless steel appliances with black accents. Until I can afford to replace them….I want to give them a black distressed look. What would I use to create that look? Thanks!
Hi Jodi,
Here is a post I just did on Black cabinets – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/20/black-kitchen-cabinets/ . I see several photos in there that are the black/stainless look. At the end of that post is a link that will take you to a How-to play-by-play post showing how to use the basecoats over an oak door. Going over laminate is no different.
You would want to use color Peppercorn – thats the black, with Toner. If you want to distress them back, you will lightly sand back to the white underneath – back on that post, toward the end I show 2 closeups of peppercorn painted doors- the first one is over stained wood, so the distressing revealed is more of a wood tone, and the second one is a white laminate door and you can see the distressed area is lighter – you will reveal your white and then when it gets TONED it will lightly antique that white – but overall the distressed areas will be like an off-white, not a reddish wood tone. Does that make sense?
Over on the right hand column I have several categories of Caromal Colour posts – thats a great place to start – alot of really helpful info on How-To’s, What If’s, Before/After photos etc….
Let me know how it goes! Patty
Hi Patty
Love looking through your blog– your tips and step by step demos are giving me confidence to attempt a project I have been putting off. In the living room one wall is paneled and has a fireplace in center. I would love to paint it but couldn’t decide on color. The paneling is slick would I need to sand it before I paint the base coat?
thanks
Hi Sandy,
No, you don’t need to sand surface before you paint – they just need to be clean – if the surface is pretty slick you will definitely need two coats. How big is this wall? Do you have a picture of it? Whats the fireplace look like?
Hi there!
Thanks for all the great information on your website. You are very talented!
I need some color advice…getting ready to paint a large chest of drawers and dresser with mirror. I want to go very light and planned on the parchment with the coffee glaze but I’m second guessing myself and wonder if I should go with wisteria and what would the tea glaze look like.
Because monitors vary, I can’t decide if I should go parchment or wisteria with the coffee or tea glaze. Again, I want the pieces to look light and fresh but not stark and cold. The hardware will likely be matte black or oil rubbed bronze.
Any guidance? I’ve carefully reviewed about every photo on your and the Caromal Colors website but just can’t make up my mind! They are so similar but whites can be tricky!
THANK YOU!
Hi Pam, if you use either the Parchment or Wisteria with one of the glazes, it will be lighter than if you use the Toner – the tea is a warmer color brown and the coffee is cooler….
Let me play around tomorrow, and pull out what I have of both, and snap a few group photos, so that you can see them ALL together – often that will show exactly what you are looking for.
Give me a day –
Patty
Pam, I finally was able to post on Wisteria vs. Parchment – check it out http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/05/06/painting-creme-or-white-parchment-or-wisteria-decisions/
Hope this helps, Patty
Hi Patty,
I need to let you know of a correction on your blog. You have a beautiful bathroom with my name on it. I wish I could say I did it, but I didnt. It was done by Shauna Gallagher, the designer was Cathy Bowen.
Cheers,
Shelley
oops! Thanks, Shelley, for clarifying that – I will go update that now. Patty
Hi,
I ordered the parchment basecoat and toner after finding your blog. I have begun to paint my cabinets! It is going to brighten my kitchen up so much!
I know I read on your blog what you recommend for a final coat – poly?, but I can not find it. Do you mind sharing that info again?
Thank you, Kirsten Dehmlow
Hi Kristen,
This one got by me – not sure how that happened! Yes, I like to use the Min-wax wipe on polyurethane – [IMG]http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/pattyfab/minwaxcan.jpg[/IMG] I usually use the oil base, but it comes in water based – which may be better choice for light colors like Wisteria or Parchment – oil based products can risk ambering over time, water based dont. Here is the link to the post http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/09/29/caromal-colour-question-will-my-kitchen-cabinets-need-a-topcoat/
Everything that I’ve read about your paints doesn’t mention about sanding before painting. I’m wanting to paint my kitchen island (8ft) in the peppercorn. I believe the finish is lacquer. So do I need to sand before I would start painting? Your paint is fabulous.
Hi Sara,
No you do not need to sand before painting. That is one of the benefits of using the textured basecoats – no priming or sanding is required for surface prep. The only time you will pull out sandpaper is after the final layer of basecoat is dry. I like to sand lightly before toning – or sand heavier to give it a distressed look. Here is a good post related to the final ‘sand’ http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/14/sanding-your-caromal-colours-finish/
Take pictures, if you do decide to Caromal your island – and send me the befores and afters – I’ll share them with readers!
Came across your blog by looking for bedroom inspiration and am so happy I did. Lovely blog. I am a decorative painter from South Africa and its so inspiring to see what others are doing.
Welcome, Linda, from South Africa! Thank you for the kind words
Hi Patty
I love your blog and you inspired me to refinished the cabinets of three of my bathrooms.
They all came out fabulous! They were all the same blonde cabinetry and I redid each one differently and everyone thinks I replaced the cabinets! My next project is painting my mom’s bedroom in her condo. The wallpaper was put in back in the 60/70′s. It is a gold stripe on gold foil stripe(tone on tone but shiny). If we remove the wallpaper a lot of the drywall will come with it. This happened to me in her bathroom and I don’t want to go thru that again. Can I use the sealer and glaze on top of the wallpaper? The color she wants is a very light lavender/purple. If I have been reading your blog correctly I would apply the sealer over the wallpaper, then paint and glaze over that? Any reccommendations would be appreciated.
BTW I live in MI too…..Bloomfield Twp.
Hi MaryBeth-
Is that paper down good? No lifting edges or anything? People do paint over wallpaper – but there are no guarantees… I’d suggest doing a test area first – not sure about the FOIL part of it – how that will want to react. When you research ‘How to paint over wallpaper’ you will see a good number of prep steps – even using oil based primers etc… I will admit, I went troweled a metallic plaster right over the wallpaper in my dining room when I moved it- it was down good (not foil or vinyl) – I didn’t even seal – and have had no issues – been seven years….
If it was me I’d do a small test area – apply the wall sealer, then your paint color. If that all goes smooth, no lifting, no bleeding, then you’ll be good to go – the glaze won’t change the equation.
Got any pictures of those bathroom cabinets you finished? I’d love to share them!
Hi Patty,
I am getting ready to redo my downstairs bathroom, it is only a toilet and sink. I would really like to do the ceiling and walls the same color. My downstairs family room is painted with a “cranberry jam” and “medieval gold”, just solid colors. I really like this picture (which is how I found your website)
http://fabulousfinishes.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/p1010561.jpg
But my problem is that I have NO skill for faux painting. How do you get that look? do you have to like sponge or can you just buy the paint and paint the walls?
Hi Jennifer,
That bathroom finish was a three layer metallic plaster applied using a trowel. You don’t want to ‘sponge’ (AAACCCKKK!!!) – chances are that will just give you a splotchy look, and painting will just give you a new color paint on your walls. However, if you like the color of that bath, you could paint your bath a burnt orange color (satin or eggshell) then roll on the Caromal Colours Wall Glaze in Tea or Coffee color, and simply wipe it off with dry rag – its a glaze made specifically for DIY’ers and it truly is as easy as I made it sound. You could paint both your wall and ceiling, like in this photo you like. The final effect won’t be a plaster, but it could give you a simliar look. You can read this post for more how-to’s with their glaze http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/08/19/caromal-colour-glazing-how-to-instructions/
Hope this helps! Patty
Hi Patty,
I contacted you last spring because my friend, Earlene, bought a Caromal kit to re-do her kitchen cupboards and they turned out beautifully. I would like to purchase a jar of Peppercorn Black to paint a small table. I don’t need the chipping cream or a second color as I want a nice solid finish. How much is a small jar of Peppercorn black?
Hi Lucille, The jars of textured basecoats come in quart size only, and cover approx 30-40 sf depending on how you use it. They run 29.50- you can order online at caromalcolours.com – use PattyH in coupon code area and it will save you a few bucks on shipping. Patty
(Does Earlene have any photos of her cabinets????
)
Patty,
I posted a question for you but never received a response and my post disappeared from the site, not really sure what’s up with that. Anyway, I had a question about distressing cabinets. I’ve coated the cabinets with peppercorn base and my final coat is a buttermilk yellow. Does the cracking creme act like a sealer and should I apply it to the entire cabinet door or just selectively in spots? How many square feet does a jar of cracking creme cover? I have left some of the wood showing through the base coat and plan on doing so with the finish coat so that when I apply the toner I get an interesting affect, does this sound good? When the toner is applied to the finish coat will it change the color any?
Thanks,
Scott
Good morning Scott,
You posted your question on a different page, my ‘Caromal Colours’ page, not this ‘Contact Me’ page – you can find it by following this link http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/caromal-colours/ . I’ll copy/paste to this one as well -
2010/07/21 at 3:46 PM | In reply to Scott D..
Hi Scott,
Okey, so you brushed cabinets with the peppercorn – and now yu want to paint them with yellow milk paint….
The chipping creme does not act as a sealer to the base coat. Generally I tell people the easiest way to use it is to brush it on your whole surface. Then when dry brush on your next layer of color. Several reasons for this – first, when you brush color 2 over the chipping creme you then can’t SEE where the chipping creme was. If you try to hand brush it into specific areas, you run the risk of not remembering where its at once its covered. The other reason I don’t recommend ‘planting’ chipping creme is because you run the risk of it looking very planned and not organic….. does this make sense? The chipping creme goes a long way, and brushes on easy, so its not a big deal to brush over your whole surface. Then when its dry, and coated with color #2, you can begin to sand to reveal your distressing – and its very natural- you can keep going to distress more, or stop at any point it looks perfect to you. Not sure how it does it, but once you are done distressing, and you apply Toner, and then topcoat, it does not keep on chipping….
However, if you KNOW that you are only going to want to distress/chip on the edges of a door, then its easy to brush the chipping creme ONLY on the edges of the doors – then when you apply color 2, and sand, you know exactly where you placed it… make sense?
One thing I need to mention is, I’m not certain what this milk paint is you’re using. CC will not guarantee that their products will work outside their product line – you are introducing a new product and are going to attempt to ‘chip’ it – if it were me I’d try it on a sample before doing it on a big scale, just to make sure it DOES work.
If you leave some base wood showing through the basecoat, I’d still brush chip creme over it, then apply color 2 over it- then sand it back and it will look more organic than just an open spot that you intentionally left uncovered. Pure wood spots are very cool, mixed into a finish – when the toner hits those spots it will bite in good, and age it up nicely – gives a nice effect – I’d not do it everywhere, else it will look too planned.
Lastly, you say these are cabinets – bath, kitchen? I personally dont recommend the liberon wax for cabinets – even Liberon doesnt list its wax as a choice topcoat for ‘cabinets’. Liberon wax is better as a furniture finish coat – for durability, I recommend a basic polyurethane – water based or oil based, your pref (though I usually grab oil) – and I like the wipe on versions, because of their ease of use. here is a good post about topcoating – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/06/23/caromal-colour-can-i-a-vintage-dining-room-table/
(for this response, I think you owe me photos of before/after when your done
) Have fun – Patty
Hi Patty!
I just purchased the peppercorn base coat and the toner, using your coupon code for the shipping discount. Thanks for that!
I am going to distress my kitchen cabinets. My cabinets are a med. colored oak stained. I just had a few questions to make sure I am doing it right. I started on them last night, I cleaned them w/soap and water to get all the finger prints, etc. off of them, made sure they were dry, then I did my first coat. The peppercorn covers very well,except a few spots you can see the oak underneath, and I’m not sure I will need to do 2 coats? Do you normally only have to use 1 coat when using the peppercorn?
After I get the base coat on, do I sand the entire cabinet, sanding more on the corners, and places where I want the oak stain to show through, or do I just sand in the places I want the oak to show?
Also, once I get the toner on, what product do you recommend I put on as a type of “sealer”, that will also give it a little shine. I worry a little about getting water on the cuboards, or someone spilling food on them. Is there a good product that will protect the paint and wood when using water to wipe the mess off?
Ok, hopefully that covers all my questions. If you have any other tips that will help I would love to hear them. Your website is very informative. I am so glad I came across it when google’ing “black kitchen cabinets”. I was originally just going to use semi-gloss paint and try it that way, but this seemed much easier, and I loved the look. Thanks again!
- Janell W.
Hi Janell,
Thanks for using my code
Okey, so oak cabs, you wiped them down (good) and brushed on first coat of peppercorn. Depending on how you applied it, you may/may not need another coat. Nearly EVERY time I apply the textured basecoats, I need to go back with a second – this is because I choose to brush on in a more even method, than to smoosh it on thicker. It makes sense the thicker you apply the tb the better it will cover, and the longer it will take to dry. Thicker applications are more full bodied looking, more primitive I think – its absolutely personal preference.
With that said, if you applied it more evenly, don’t worry at all that you are seeing a few spots – the second coat brushed on will cover all that and give you a nice solid black top color. The second coat will not take as long to apply, nor will it require as much product- you’ll see. Don’t be afraid to pull most of that second coat off – as you move it around – a thin coating IS sticking to the first layer and its all you need.
When its all dry I sand mainly my flat areas (using a palm sander or mouse will make it go really quick) – the inner detailed areas I dont pay much attention to unless I had a big booger that I didnt clean out while wet, then I’ll work to sand that down – yes, where you want the oak to show through you’d sand more – usually its on the edges
here is a post I did on SANDING http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/14/sanding-your-caromal-colours-finish/
When you’re done sanding, wipe off dust w/dry rag, then brush toner on and wipe off. Give a day to dry, then absolutely seal them – I prefer poly’s as they are more durable in kitchens and baths – here read this http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/06/23/caromal-colour-can-i-a-vintage-dining-room-table/
Hope this answers all your questions – remember, take some before and after photos, you’ll be amazed at the change! Then, email them to me
Have fun, Patty
Patty,
I am very interested in Caromal Colours products. I have my kitchen and 2 bathrooms of cabinets that need updating. Can you tell me about the durability of this product? How does it hold up to kitchen and bathroom use? I want something very durable that won’t chip. Can you give me some info about this? Thank you so much!
Karen
Hi Karen, The Caromal Colours products are quite durable – I think that is one of their great selling features. I have them in several bathrooms, one is just recent, but I have them on several furniture items in my house as well. It is not a paint that will ‘chip’ like paint – its thicker than regular paint, and handles differently. Now could you bang something into your cabinet and have it ding it or gouge it or etc? Yes, just like it would do if it was maple, or oak, or mahogany. But – at least you could fix that – just redo that front face. I havent had any issues with my stuff – but i know with the sample doors that I have, I lug those around in my truck, doing workshops etc, and they bang on each other, and fall of displays and….. and there are a couple gouges on them.
Additionally, you will want to topcoat your kitchen and bath – this helps keep your finishes looking fabulous – I like the wipe-on poly’s – search my site I have bunches written on topcoats.
PAtty
Hi Patty
I would like to paint my oak kitchen cabinets with off white/ cream color with warm pin stripe glaze. Also, my kitchen appliances are white instead of stainless steel.
Please let me know which product (with color name) I can purchase from you. I am willing to send my current picture of kitchen.
thanks,
elle
Hi Elle,
I think I answered your questions via email – please let me know if you have any other questions – Patty
Hi Patty,
I really liked your work. I am living in India right now and would like to use some of the concepts shown especially this….
http://fabulousfinishes.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/wall-fabric-110610-maya-romanoff1.jpg
Can you please tell me the details of the base coat and related information.
Also why I am looking for this is because I have a rectangular false POP ceiling for which I have given white color, with the internal surface in cream color.
The room size is 12 x 12 .
Can you suggest something that will look more vibrant, fresh when I enter the room. I cannot go for Blue or green because I does not suite with the ‘groove pattern’ theme that I am going with.
Please do reply.
Thanks once again and keep the good work going.
Regards,
Nilesh
also if possible please give some photo links that I can look into.
Thanks.
Hi Patty!
I am looking to buy some products soon, but I can’t decide between colors. Could you tell me if the putty is a gray or more of a beige? Its hard to tell with my computer screen. Also, does the colonial blue have a gray tone in it? Thanks for you help!
The putty is more grey when its UNTONED –
SW7031 Mega Greige is close
The putty toned is more beige -
kinda mix of SW6080 utterly beige and sw6101 sands of time
the colonial blue has grey in it UNTONED-
is like sw6242 bracing blue or sw6249 storm cloud
the colonial blue toned -
is like sw6236 grays harbor and sw7075 web gray
hope this helps – its hard to pin point to one color – the toner changes it alot, and you can vary the toner , more or less, to change your final color -
Thanks Patty! Also, if you purchase the distress for success kit, do they provide the paint brush to put on the basecoat or is there a type of brush I should use?
You can purchase either by kit, or ala carte (ie: base color only, or toner only). Their kits are nice – they come complete, and in a pretty box too -
the Distress Kit includes 1 quart textured basecoat, 1 16 ounce toner, a brush, gloves, sandpaper and simple instructions. The added cost for buying a kit ($47.50) is minimal – $1.50 more – than buying the basecoat and toner solo. The Distress Kit will cover an average 40-50sf.
If you purchase the Barnworn Kit (for two color layering) it includes 2 quarts textured basecoat, 1 16 ounce toner, 1 16 ounce chipping creme, a brush, gloves, sandpaper and simple instructions. The barnworn kit is $94.50.
Hi Patty,
I need some advice. I just purchased the kit and I’m trying to figure out how to put it on to make it look smooth. I know they say “mush” it on, but it makes it look clumpy and rough. I’m trying to get a finish like you have on some of your samples shown above, particularly the parchment. I have been using the brush that they have provided, should I be using a different one? I also notice if I “paint” it on, it streaks and doesn’t cover all parts of the wood. I’m new to this so I hope you can help! Thanks a bunch!
Hi,
Ghe Caromal Colours line of paints were created for the DIY market – meant to be completely easy and effortless. Mushing is easy and effortless. Yes, it on gives a rougher texture – one that many prefer. I found, in working with these paints, that applying smoother (by brushing on less product, in several layers) is not that difficult either. BUT read this post of mine- http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/08/18/caromal-paints-hide-the-oak-grain-and-still-look-high-quality/ – in it I show examples of this ‘smoother’ application, and how it ISNT a sprayed looking finish. It ISNT free of brush marks….
after you read that post, read this next one, where I show how I brush it on smoother http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/03/25/caromal-colour-painting-oak-cabinet-door-start-to-finish/
Regarding brush? Use the one they provided in the kit – its called a chip brush, and the only bad thing about it is when its new it sheds hairs , so you have to pick a few out.. but it is the best type brush for applying these paints.
I hope this helps you – let me know if you have any further questions after you read these – patty
I need help with stripping paint . Can anyone suggest a good paint stripper ? Thanks so much ! I will be purchasing the caramal colours to re-do when I have them stripped .
(: Thanks so much .
Deb
Hi Deb,
Are you stripping paint off the cabinets you took down, or off the walls? You don’t have to strip the cabinets before Caromal’ing them – thats the beauty of their basecoats – unless you are wanting to strip for another reason??
Have any pictures of your existing cabinets ? Email me them, in mean time, what color do you plan on refinishing them?
I love the parchment with toner . The cabinets are so old and gross . LOL They are not nice . I will send pics of one sanded and one not . We have 24 doors and 13 drawers to re-do . Thanks
Deb
Hi Patty,
I’ve been reading your blog for a while now and I just love it. You have an amazing talent. I just wish I lived closer so I could take some of the classes. I want to redo my half bath and I’m thinking of putting wainscotting on bottom and a metallic paint finish on upper and possible the ceiling. Any suggestions for a do-it-yourselfer? One of the looks I like of yours has a look almost like the paint is running. I’m looking for colors of browns & grey, maybe black and I want to use red as an accent color. Help! What products do I use and how? Thank you!
Kathy
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for the bloggy kudos
regarding your bathroom – if you wains the bottom at least you’re only looking at finishing 1/2 the wall – that is much easier to tackle as a diy than full size walls. Metallic paints can be tricky though, they actually look the best sprayed on as the MOA’s almost always show (brush and roller marks). Finishers often will do a technique over the metallic basecoat to mask MOA’s – or they’ll add additives to extend the open time of the metallic paints.
A great line of metallic paints, and one I use most often, is by Modern Masters – the colors are brilliant – but they are not cheap – around $30-35 a quart. Good chance one of your local SW or BM stores stocks some of the popular colors. To get a vertical dragging/running look you’d roll on several colors, randomly, and then using a trowel you’d pull down in a vertical direction, pulling the colors into each other. Id suggest getting some sample boards and working on those first – the good thing is metallic paints are so lovely and rich, that often even blobs of color, hobnobbing together, will look cool in a crazy way! HOpe this helps
Wondering……can you do this process on a plywood subfloor? Looking for an inexpensive answer to smelly carpet from the new puppy.
I don’t see why not Vickie…. People paint floors all the time. I’m not certain how far a quart would get you, rolling it on sub floor. The good thing is, the textured base coats bite instantly to raw wood, so you’d only be looking at one layer. You’d want to topcoat for protection.
Thanks for sharing Patty! You’re a doll. I really appreciate your help!
Kathy
Hi, Patty,
I just had a room blue boarded and plastered. I want it to have an old colonial look. the unpainted plaster has the look I want. Is there something available that can go over plaster to make it wipeable? I would prefer not using something that would preclude me from later being able to paint the walls (e.g., polyurethane). I was thinking something that would be equivalent to an eggshell paint finish, but translucent.
thanks. Michele
Hi Michelle, yes they sell the Wall Sealer – a clear non yellowing sealer. That would give you what you’re looking for, I’m not 100% certain if the finish is eggshell enough – it changes it some but not sure how much. You might want to ask them when you’re ordering it. If you order, use my code PattyH – you’ll save a couple bucks.
Patty,
I can’t seem to find your mailing address so i can send you my samples. Would you send it to me?
Many thanks,
Cyndi
sent it your way -
Hello Patty!
Would putty with a different glaze on it work possibly? Something similar to this? http://www.countryliving.com/cm/countryliving/images/xW/maximize-kitchen-1-de.jpg . My second question is about how much to order. We have 6 average (30-36″) lower cabs, and just 4-5 uppers of average size. It’s hard to determine square footage when you’re doing the fronts/backs of doors and the bases. Thanks so much in advance. Btw – LOVE your blog 
I’ve been lurking on your blog for the past week. We are doing a ton of updates on our new house that we hope to move into soon. Within the next month or two I would love to updated our 80′s medium oak cabinets (which seems to be a common thread around here!). I have two questions. First is color. I’m interested in a brown, but think chocolate will be too dark. I like the heavy toned putty, but on my screen it looks a little orangey? I want something mid toned brown…not heavily distressed – without haveing to do layer upon layer
Amy,
Yes, the chocolate is very dark, its a cool color -it makes its presense much like a black but softer/warmer.
The putty is void of orange, the color on its own is flat and greyish, the toner warms it up and when more toner is left on it starts to look browner – for you to see the color you’d really want to order a couple samples – i could work them up for you and leave medium toner on it, then heavy toner on it so you could see for yourself.
In this photo you can see how grey the basecoat color Putty is (it is on the door). I am starting to brush on the Toner which is like a medium brown. That background is an olive and brown tone torn paper just to give a color guide.
this is putty complete, with more toner left on than normal-
Actually that country living kitchen picture you sent looks like a maple kitchen – the pumpkin, toned, reminds me of maple cabinets, but i think it might be a little darker than you’d want and probably too much orange -
Another possibility would be the Parchment (cream) that has a lot of Toner left on – that goes very much a lighter caramel color, you’d get closer to the overall color of that country living kitchen, but you’d be missing a darker ‘something’ thats coming through from the background (if that makes sense?) This picture shows the toner being brushed on – you could leave much of this toner on (brush it all on, lightly blot off the door then do a fine drag with your dry brush to smooth out any blot marks) and you’ll get a more medium light brown finish…
You can also mix colors – maybe a parchment with a little bit of pumpkin mixed in, then toned?
As far as how much you’d need i’d say you can get about 5 cab doors (both sides door, and base around it) per quart. that doesnt take into account any side cabinets you might have. i base my number off a bay of 5 doors i did that were installed within 2 walls- no sides were showing. (I was scraping jar too). if you are going over darker finish, and using wisteria (white) or parchment (cream) I think it takes more. So for sure you’d need 2 quarts, I’d get 3 to be safe.
Hope this helps!
you were kind enough to respond to my comments on painting counter tops but have since lost that info due to computer problems. it was a video showing how to paint countertops and you made it so simple looking i felt very confident after viewing it. please tell me where i can get that video again please. your website is awesome….
Thanks Jeanie
Sorry you had ‘puter problems, I had a glitch about 1 1/2 yrs ago and it wiped out 1/2 my saved email files – I thought I was going to lose my mind it left such a hole… after that I figured out how to save on an external as backup!
I didnt have a video I sent you, but I did find the old email I replied to you with – the info was:
I have a post on painting the counters http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/05/caromal-colours-to-paint-over-old-formica-counters/ did you read that one?
It is easy – clean your surface good, then pick your color/colors and get started! It will bond nicely and remain intact, and cures nice and hard – protect it with a topcoat (poly) for added protection, of course you’d have to take care not to cut on it etc…
You can do it anyway you want really, but my choice method would be getting a whiz roller and rolling on coat #1 – as you get near the corners and edges I’d take chip brush and pounce those areas in , then roll right with it so it all blends . when it dries I’d lightly take a sponge block and sand it to knock off any pokey’s. then I’d repeat, or you could do layer two by simply stippling it on with either chip brushes or French sponges – like bouncing/pouncing color on – can mix in diff. colors – or just use one.. then when dry and completely covered again light sand the nibs, wipe with dry rag, and then brush on your toner and wipe it off… can chip in more toner here/there for added depth – practice on a poster board first to get the hang of it, and to get an idea of what look you’re going for. Honest, its easy!
One quart and 1 toner would do the counters , unless you have tons…. If you want multiple color then you’d need a quart of each – would have leftovers, but you’ll find a place to use it!
Hope this helps – let me know how it goes! Patty
******************
back to videos, I did have this ‘cavewoman’ quality video I did on painting laminate – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/09/04/caromal-colours-laminate-cabinet-refinish-video/
I know, I need to get a better how-to up – that’s on the top of my to-do list
Hello we are redoing our kitchen and the cabinets are already white. What product do I use?
Hi Terri,
What color cabinets are your favorite? Any in particular ? what look, smooth or primitive? Lets start there….
Hi Patty,
I started my cabinets in wisteria color and stopped because I saw I was going to run out and didn’t order more because I saw something new was on it’s way called Reclaim. Now I need your artistic help with what direction to go with my cabinet project. I painted one base and one upper frame with wisteria…should I go with Reclaim now…or what? I would like an easier application and do like the idea of strong paint (is it stronger than wisteria?) I have 5 little kids that help in the kitchen -these cabinets get a beating. What would you do? I’m thinking of sanding the wisteria and then using Reclaim on the doors and blend in the frames I started. What do you think?
Can I use the barn wood glaze with Reclaim paint or do I need Reclaim glaze?
I wish I could paint my counters with Reclaim as well as my cabinets. However the colors are too limited for for my countertops. Do you have any suggestions what can be done to countertops with Reclaim? Is it possible to change the color of Reclaim?
Odd question but what color comes from the green and the latte mixed in equal parts?
Lisanne, i am buried this week -will respond in length here, but if you want an immediate response, please call me today on my cell (its the 313 number above) – i’ll have my blue tooth on and can give you my guidance – patty
Hi Lisanne, What are your cabinets – laminate, oak, standard white? I’m assuming oak because you’re painting them white. So, could you stop now, and sand the doors you did and start over with Reclaim? you could – have you read this post that I did on both product lines compared? This one http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/02/03/my-first-playdate-with-reclaim-paints/ and then this one on the Bright White Reclaim http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/02/04/caromal-colours-reclaim-bright-white/ .
The Reclaim is easier – it rolls on, 2 coats will do you. The Country Living line is brushed on – 2 coats, but needs a light finish sand before toning it and you’ll want a topcoat for sealing in kitchen and baths. You dont sand the Reclaim finish at all – and the sealer is built in so you dont have to topcoat. Biggest difference is the Reclaim doesnt make the oak grain go away – it ‘masks’ it – but you’ll still see the grain whereas textured basecoats easily cover up the grain…
BOTH lines are strong paint – all the fabulous qualities about the Caromal Colours paints are in both their Country Living and Reclaim paints- bonds to near anything, primer built in, no need for stripping, sanding etc…. stays put, cures do a nice hard durable finish – thats in both lines.
The glazes are interchangeable – so you can use the Coffee Stain Glaze and Tea Stain Glaze from the earlier line on the Reclaim paint (just make certain you wait at least 3 days) and reverse you can use the Reclaim Antiquing Glaze on the Country Living line. I’m not certain about the Toner – which is whats used in the earlier line – I’ve not tried it yet, but I’m pretty certain it can go both ways…
You CAN paint your counters – with either the textured basecoats (earlier line) or the Reclaim – have you read this post? http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/23/does-your-refrigerator-or-formica-need-a-facelift-paint-it/ if you used the Reclaim, you’d roll on a couple layers, then you could do the glaze over it. You could mix colors together to get to a new one – i’ve not yet mixed the sage and latte together – i’d guess you’d get a muddy color – like wet clay..
I love the textured basecoats – they can create a really lovely durable finish on cabinets/furniture- you’d have to decide (if you have oak grain) if you want it gone or just hidden some…. Hope this helps ?
Thanks SOO much. I will call you… I understand these questions are a curve ball.
Hi Patty,
I just purchased the country living caramol colours paint from a small antique shop in Massachusetts. Not sure if I bought the correct product to paint laminate cabinets? I am confused now that I saw a you tube video and the product is callec reclaim. What can I do if I purchased the incorrect product? Can you email the procedure and material needed for thisproject? Thank you so much.
Lynda
you’d have to get with the shop you bought it from regarding returns – i can’t help you there, we are all independent. sorry!
Has anyone tried painting a floor. I have a small bathroom with Armstrong vinyl that was poorly installed. I thought if you can paint a floor cloth on vinyl that it might work.
Thank you
Hi Gail,
nope, havent painted a floor yet, but the Reclaim for certain would apply easily over vinyl flooring. In fact, they show it over flooring in their demos. Easy because it can be rolled on. I’m sure you could use the textured basecoats (Country Living line) as well – but they dont roll quite as easily – maybe cut them with a little water – if I roll the textured basecoats I only like the first layer rolled, then second layer i fill in with a brush , whereas the Reclaim both layers are rolled on. Patty
One more question. Would you use the new reclaim line or the original method?
hmm, was this for the question above? Im thinking so – I’d use the Reclaim for a vinyl floor. Thing is it comes in 4 colors – the Bright White, Off White, Latte and Sage…. you could apply the Antiquing Glaze over it as well – make sure the paint dries for a good 3 days – roll it on and wipe it off with a dry rag like you would wiping (dusting ) a dresser – that would give it a nice muted look like ceramic , know what I mean?
I have light oak finished wood cabinets and want to paint them a cream color with a stain that will be a caramel color. My cabinets have polyurethane on them does this need to be sanded off first. What colors would you suggest to get the look I want.
Thanks
Dina LeBert
No, Dina, the paints will bond to your poly’d cabinets – no need to sand first. just clean and dry. if you use the textured basecoats i’d use Antique Parchment and then the Toner over top. If you used the Reclaim I’d use the Off White then use the Reclaim Antiquing Glaze over top. You’d want to read the posts I have on what the differences are – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/02/03/my-first-playdate-with-reclaim-paints/
Reclaim off white – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/02/05/caromal-colours-reclaim-off-white/
This is a good post I just did on cream glazed cabinets like you describe – http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/02/15/paula-deans-cabinets-caromal-colours-how-to/
Hope this helps! Patty
Hello — I am interested in painting our dining room table using your products, however, I wanted to make sure that they would work on a veneer tabletop. Also, we have young children, so I’m wondering if the paint would hold up to them “using” the table (is it likely to scratch off, or is there any finish that I can put on top to protect it better?). Thank you!
Hi Shannon,
Yes Caromal Colours products bond to veneer – they bond to near any surface, you want to make sure its clean, dry, grease and wax free. There are two diffferent paints that can be used –
Here is Caromal’s description of the two basecoats side by side:
The Reclaim comes in 4 colors, the TB’s have 12 colors. the TB’s are a heavier, kicked back look – very cool paints, can layer, distress , brush thick, or thin, – the Reclaim is more even, quick and easy, like a painted finish.
For both, certainly I’d topcoat for extra protection – i am going to be doing my dining room set soon, in the Peppercorn (black) TB, and i plan on topcoating with a poly for added durability.
hope this helps! patty
Patty,
I cannot find where to purchase the products I need to refinish my cabinets like you have in the DIY on your site. The Caromal Colours website/store doesn’t show me where they are. Please help.
Thanks,
Amy
Hi Amy,
Which products are you looking for specifically? The Textured Basecoats (12 colors ranging from Wisteria to Peppercorn) by the quart or gallon, and the Toner (8 oz, 16 oz, 32 oz) can be found online here http://www.caromalcolours.com/viewproduct.php?cid=69&pid=2
you can purchase kits (one quart paint, one 16 oz toner, gloves, sandpaper) or can purchase items individually lower down on the page.
The Coffee and Tea Glazes that I’ve shown over Wisteria and Parchment paint for a lighter glaze touch can be found here http://www.caromalcolours.com/viewproduct.php?cid=21&pid=48
If you order online you can use my coupon code PattyH or PattyH5 for money off shipping (you wont pay tax) – enter the coupon at the end of checking out.
The new Reclaim line of paints (Bright White, Off White, Latte and Sage) as well as the Reclaim Antiquing Glaze can only be purchased online at HSN http://home-solutions.hsn.com/reclaim-by-caromal-colours_c-hw_a-8123_xc.aspx
if you’d like to use my coupon off that you’ll need to email me your order and I’ll submit it for you.
Hope this helps!
Hi Patty,
After seeing your information on Caromal Colours I ordered the Artisans Collection in Parchment and the Toner to do my cabinets. However, I now see their new product RECLAIM. What are the difference between the two collections and which would be more durable for cabinets? Thanks!
Hi Christina,
both product lines, The Artisan Collection and the new Reclaim, work under the same premise of ‘no prior sanding, stripping, priming’ and both are wonderfully durable for cabinets. The main differences in these 2 lines is A)ease of use and B) finish effect C) colors available
If you scroll above a few posts you can see the side by side comparison of the 2 lines – the Reclaim is easier and faster to use (roll on, no light sanding after unless you wish some distressing), and has some topcoat protection built in, whereas the textured basecoats are brushed on, can effortlessly create a textured effect, and can be applied smoother but brushing takes more time, and there is light sanding after these paints are dry, before glazing/toning. The finish, however, is much more of a painted furniture /artisian finish than the Reclaim – the Reclaim is a more even, allover, painted effect. The Reclaim takes 3-5 days to cure before applying a glaze or additional topcoat, you can glaze/toner the textured basecoats as soon as their dry. Both paints, once their dry, are durable – you wont be able to scratch them or gouge them off. The reason for any additional topcoating is for washability, and for the textured basecoats the topcoat can/will add sheen – they dry more matte.
I hope this helps! Patty
Patty~
I need to refinish my cabinet but need some help deciding on the color! I have choc. milkshake colored walls and white appliances. My new curtains have taupe, chocolate, cream, and espresso. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, I saw the peppercorn color and thought about furniture in the boys’ room. They have the same color walls. Thanks!
Hi Amy,
what are you cabinets now? Any photos? Whats on the floor? do you like color? Obviously, white would be safe….. Chocolate would be clean and urban, and softer than black…. I love the peppercorn – i am doing my sons furniture in it soon – look for a post tomorrow on my sampling of the peppercorn over pumpkin for him (his choice). my choice would for his stuff was between chocolate and peppercorn – both dark colors but both would be perfect for a dude…… either will work.
Hi Patty,
I am painting our kitchen cabinets with Reclaim (white). However, when rolling it the paint seems to have a textured finish almost like a rough surface. Will this self level itself when drying or its this the finish to expect with the Reclaim paint? If the paint does give a more textured look and a smooth surface is desired can I sand them when they are completely dry? They are seem to be taking around three coats. I see it says no sanding needed so I didn’t want to do that and harm the paint.
Thanks,
Christina
Hi Christina,
Are you using a textured roller – like the whizz roller? i am assuming you are …. yes, when it rolls out wet it looks way stipply-er but as it dries, most of that texture dries down. if you are being left with too much when it dries, do you think you have too much on your roller? i like to roller with not a super loaded roller…. As far as 3 coats, they are showing the bright white as the color that can take 3 coats for coverage over darker surface – the colors cover better.
as far as sanding the surface, you can sand – i sand when i want to add distressing, but i dont think i’d sand to remove the heavier texture – unless maybe it was before the final coat if you had heavier areas…. i’d be afraid it would leave my finished coat as scuffed looking?
Dear Patty,
Just a little funny. I was going to paint my bathroom cabinets with Reclaim sage. First I had prepped them by wiping them down, and had remarked about the dog hair in our bathroom. I had put the Anatolin Shepherd (Comet) in the back yard, and he was barking in protest, so that I could paint in relative peace. Did I mention my “ever-ready” 5 year old was glued to my side? So I started painting, the dog was barking, and the 5 year old was chattering… all of the sudden she stopped and said, “We should let Comet” back in!” I asked why, and she replied, “Cause you can paint his hair right into the cabinet!”
out of the mouth of babes! You gotta love kids… and gotta cringe at animals! Between Bella and our two cats, I am really over the pet hair… did your 5 year old want to help paint?
Hi Patty! I have been wanting to paint my kitchen cabinets for a couple years now and am truly inspired by your work. HOWEVER, my inspiration usually dries up when I get to my appliance garage with a tambour door. I’m thinking Reclaim would be too thick and the slats would stick together once dry. Any ideas on how to tackle such a project??! – Lane R.
Hi Jake,
hmmmm….. what color are you thinking? are you looking for a solid, clean update where you distress no edges etc? im thinking, if you did, say, black, and distressed edges here and there to reveal your (im assuming oak) wood color underneath, how about then on your ‘garage’ just lightly dry brushing? you could even do that with all the other colors as well – keep your brush pretty dry – so that its not loaded with paint and I’d make an effort to keep the paint out of the grooves- -updated to same paint color, but lesser coverage, i think that would look cool – not painted the same like everything else. however, if you ‘re going for a solid painted, clean look, then it might look kindof 1/2 done if you keep its coverage light…..
Hi Patty! I received my RECLAIM order and started painting my kitchen cabinets. I’m just GIDDY!! This stuff is AMAZING! I’m surprised I don’t have a sore neck from shaking my head in disbelief. The only thing that’s “hard” about using this product is waiting for it to dry….because you just want to keep going and going!!! I think I’ll actually be bummed when I’m all done!
Your suggestions about the tambour door on the appliance garage were spot-on and it looks awesome!
I have one question about applying a poly top coat. I’ve read your posts suggesting MinWax Rub On Poly, waiting 4 days to apply and doing 3-4 coats, but do I also have to rub the base of the cabinets…or could I get away with just the coating the door and drawer panels?
Thanks for your help….I’ll soon be looking to try more of Caromal Colours products on my ever-growing list of things to paint!
hi Lane, Im so glad your tambour turned out! I’d love to see photos when you’re done. regarding the topcoat, I’d say the bases etc DONT need the extra protection, but one thing that you might notice is a sheen difference. If you find that’s noticeable, then I’d do all the surfaces you can see – I’d not do the insides of the doors. And good chance one coat wiped on the bases might get the sheen to look the same, whereas you can give 4 wipes to the doors/drawers . Make sense?
Patty,
I’m interested in painting my white bathroom melamine cabinets an expresso color. My bathroom has white tile on the floor and white trim. I need some contrast so I thought to go dark. I didn’t see a mention of using your products on melamine cabinets. What do you think? Thanks…….
heres a post on some white melamine cabs I did
http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/01/26/a-plain-jane-formica-white-gets-caromal-coloured/
and this funny video where i demo’d over a laminate piece http://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/09/04/caromal-colours-laminate-cabinet-refinish-video/
absolutely the paints bond to melamine – happy painting!
I am interested in your paint. I have a cabinet that has red enamel paint, will I need to strip that off or can I just use your barnwood paint on this?
no stripping Dianna – just clean and dry (and wax free). You could use either the textured basecoats (barnworn) or the Reclaim line- both will bond to your cabinet – the textured basecoats can be brushed thinner, or layed on thicker – you’re choice – your existing red would look real cool coming through a number of topcolors – like peppercorn, or bayberry, or putty….
Patti,
I have Caromal Paprika,Peppercorn,Pumpkin, Black and Parchment as well as toner and chip cream. I would like to do a cabinet with the dominate color being Paprika Is there a picture of Paprika over Pumpkin and Paprika over Black that I can see on your site?
I plan to use the toner.
Thank you,
Jeannette
Hi Jeannette, you have great colors
let me work up a sampler for you and i’ll post pictures – look for me a day or so 
Hi Patty,
I want to paint my bathroom cabinets but they are white and not real wood, Can I do that with the Caromal colors and was hoping to do it in Peppercorn or could I do the Reclaim?.
Will be dropping in to see you soon at your store.
Carolyn Hallop
Absolutely can paint those white-not-real-wood cab’s Carolyn – just pop in when you can, both blacks will work, just give different visual results – you can decide which one best suits you. Hope all is well!
what would you suggest for me to use if I were to paint an old iron bed ?? How do I order something from your site ? I am not to familiar with it
Hey Patty,still waiting for your reply…
oops, so sorry, don’t know how i missed that one Betty! Old iron bed, it would depend on the look you want – any of the 3 lines of paint would work – the reclaim, typically a rolled on paint, will be harder to ‘roll’ – spindles etc… but it will dry to a satin sheen since built in sealer. if you like its colors, and want simple paint look (and can glaze it but need to wait 5 days) then that would be option. the textured basecoats would be easy to just smoosh on and create a heavier textural primitive/rustic look – if thats what you desire, i’d go with that, one coat would probably cover cuz its going on heavier, light sand, brush on toner wipe off and it would look like a cool older leather finish…. if you want smoother custom painted look then i’d go CeCe – those brush out way easier, and cover excellent – and a light sand is only necessary if you want it to ‘feel’ smoother – brush on the clear wax to seal and you’d be good to go- you can layer color with the CeCe easy, or even just wipe back a single color (with wet rag) to reveal some of your original iron, and then clear wax it…. OR you could even start with glue here and there, then brush over it with the CeCe and you’d have cracks revealing your iron… that could be really cool…
to order from my site you can head to the STORE link at the top right – or go here shop.fabfinisher.com