Great Method To Cream Glazed Kitchen Cabinets…

I’ve already shown you many examples of using the DIY Caromal Colours Textured Basecoats to take your old cabinets, regardess of surface finish (laminate, formica, melamine, oak, unfinished, finished, painted, metal, plastic etc etc),  from blah to fresh and updated.  These photos, below, are varying cabinet doors that had 2 layers of CC textured basecoat Parchment brushed on, and then 1 layer of CC Toner brushed on and damp rag wiped-


DSC_4515 [Desktop Resolution]


We also know that if we use a dry rag, and barely wipe the toner off, we will obtain a richer color –


Well, GUESS what I just stumbled on?    Another option, one that is (I think) even EASIER,  if that can even be possible!   Here’s what happened.   I was showing a painter how easy the Caromal Colours Textured Basecoats are.   I was also showing him how easy the Caromal Colours Wall Glaze is.  I grabbed an old wood door that I had previously painted with 2 coats of CC Textured Basecoat Parchment.  It had dried but did NOT have CC Toner on it.

I got out the palm sander and did a real quick buzzing of a palm sand on it,  letting it gouge into the edges.  Then I brushed on Caromal Colours Wall Glaze, color Tea Stain.  Then wiped it off with dry rag.  It wiped off just like that.  Zero effort.  How can I explain…..  its like theres only one color you will get –  a very subtle hint of color, but it DOES still give just enough that remains in the detail.   The Parchment is a very popular color choice, and I find that people want it one way or the other – very subtle, and over light look with just a hint of color, or they want it richer, more antiquing,  more interest.   If you are really distressing back a piece, then Toner works perfectly.  If you are looking for cleaner, very subtle  I am actually liking the Wall Glaze –

DSC_7349 [Desktop Resolution]You can see below, where I removed the tape (the tape was put on after layer 1 of basecoat was applied),  the Wall Glaze DOES warm up the unfinished Parchment color –

DSC_7350 [Desktop Resolution]

Now heres what’s different.  The Wall Glaze is much more translucent.  It is not as full bodied.  It is created to give your wall surfaces a lovely hint of color – easily.  It stays wet for quite awhile, so once you are done wiping off it will take longer for your doors, or furniture piece, to dry.    The CC Toner, on the other hand, is richer.  It stays open (meaning it won’t dry, or become unworkable quickly) as well, but the color is richer, stronger,  thus it offers a great variety of color tones, depending on how you chose to wipe it off.   It gives more depth to your finish. Is Richer.


Applying Parchment Textured Basecoat On Oak Cabinet Door,  Then 1/2 Toned and 1/2 WallGlazed

Started with a clean Cabinet Door-


Apply first layer of Parchment Textured Basecoat using a chip brush-






Layer 1, complete-


See?  It doesn’t look that great –   yet….



Let dry and brush on 2nd layer.  This will fill in the lighter spots –



let dry then lightly finish sand with a mouse/palm sander.  I didn’t  sand in the crevices, but if you want it all really smooth you can do those smaller areas with small pieces of 220 sand paper –



For the visual, I taped door in 1/2.

Top 1/2 apply Caromal Colours Toner, using chip brush –



brush it all in –


then wipe it off with a rag.  If you want a lighter finish you can use a damp rag, but in this example I used a dry rag and wiped off the toner –


The bottom 1/2 will be Wall Glazed.  I split the section in 1/2 once more so that we can try out both the Coffee Stain Wall Glaze and the Tea Stain Wall Glaze. Here I applied the Tea Stain Wall Glaze-




and the left side I applied the Coffee Stain Wall Glaze




Now, wipe off with dry rag.  Easy Schmeezy.  Don’t even look.  Just wipe off.  It will all come off clean and even, because it only bites in so much…  if you wipe too much off, just brush more back in, then wipe lighter –


it will stay in the crevices, which is nice -and will slightly effect your buzzed areas. If you are wanting richer distressed areas (the wood you revealed, beneath, by sanding back) then I would stick with the Toner, which will do that –


Here is the finished sample, showing all 3 color variations while the tape line shows the true color of un-toned Parchment –


I could have wiped back more of the glaze,cleaned it out of the cracks more, but I chose to leave it as is – it’s all in how you want your finished piece to look –





Head to my store below (click icon) and be sure to use my code, PattyH in the coupon code area.   It will save you $2 off shipping,  or if you’re order is $75 or more use my PattyH5 for $5 off shipping.



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NEED MORE INFORMATION? Still have questions about the products? Call or email me. Interested in bringing it to your neck of the world? Call or email me. You may love it so much that you want to get involved and become an Independent Representative yourself, hosting creative and informative workshops, having fun, AND making money while you do it!

If you are interested in becoming an Independent Representative in your area, please contact me for more information.

Patty Henning

Fabulous Finishes, Inc. Owner/Artist

Caromal Colours, Regional Director

mobile 313-318-6511 studio 248-652-1845


59 responses to “Great Method To Cream Glazed Kitchen Cabinets…

  1. Pingback: Great Method To Cream Glazed Kitchen Cabinets… just do it

  2. Hallo Patty Hennying,
    I have been looking at your website and I am very interested in your caramel colour prodects.
    I at the moment want to do my pine mantelpiece it is old high one and the pine has gone that orangie yellow colour it is horrable. So I want to paint it and give it that old distressed look. I went into Homebase and bought Natural Hessian satenwood its for wood and metal. It is realy a nice colour and would like this to be the main colour for my fire mantelpiece.But after comeing across your website I am not sure now if this is the correct paint or should I be using the paints like yours,Could you please help me and give me advice on this and what ealse I would need and each step that I would have to take to compleate the whole thing. is this paint the correct one for what I want to do, as I have an open fire. I have been looking on the internet for advice but could not find anything and that is when I came across yours.
    I would be very greatfull if you could help me as I want to do this properly and get a nice finish as the fireplace is in my liveingroom and I can’t afford to pull it out to replace it with a knew one.

    • Hallo Patty,
      I sent you a email yesterday asking you if you could give me some advice on how to to paint my fire mantilpiese and to give it that old distressed look.please could you get back to me on this. Is their a Magasine about Caromal Colours for sale in the uk that explains how to do this as I am realy interested. I look forwsrd to hearing from you.

      Kind Regards

    • Hi Audrey, I am unfamiliar with the Dulux product line so I am unsure if it will work for what you are wanting to do. I tried to research the product, and in the Surface Prepararation it does state: “Dulux Quick Drying Satinwood – Natural Hessian …For wood, treat any knots with knotting solution. Apply Dulux Wood Primer to bare surfaces.” so, make sure your knots are taken care of. Beyond that, it sounds like this product will give you a painted wood finish. Not certain its distressing qualities.

      The Caromal Colour textured basecoats can be painted directly over your existing mantle, you would just want to make certain it is clean and dry first. 1-2 coats then lightly sand then tone. You said you want an old distressed look – then you could sand with a heavier grit, or you could use the Caromal Colours Barnworn Distressing Kit which layers two colors with Chipping Creme in the middle. Did you see this post on refinishing a mantle? Start here , , and it will show you, visually, what I am describing.

      • Hi Patty, thank you for getting back to me. You asked where in UK I stay, I stay in Scotland in Inverness well I am 9miles ouside Inverness in a small village beside lochness. I hope this will be able to help you to tell me if their is anyone near me that I could get your paints from as I am realy Iterested in all off this and would like to learn all about it and to do it. I want to say that I also bought this otheir paint to lightly spray over the top off the Natural Hessian it is Rust-Oleim
        Stone a Bleached Stone Textured Finish. It says its perfect for creating the natural look and feel of stone on interior wood,metal and ceramics. the only thing is I am not shure if I can use this with it being an open fire,I have just noticed it says not to use in places that exceed temperatures over 90c.Apply only when temperature its between 10-32c.and relative humidity below 85%. So I am not sure if I can use it, what do you think Patty. Hope you can help. Also how much are your products do you have a magazine and price list.
        Kind Regards

  3. Hallo Patty,
    I have been looking at your website and I am very interested in your colour products.I at the moment want to do my pine mantilpiece it is a high one and the pine has gone that orange and yellow colour it is horrable,so I want to paint it and give it that old distressed look and maybe a marble look. I have been looking on the internet for advice in how to do this but could not find anything and that is when I came across you website. I would be very greatfull if you could help me as I want to do this properly and get a nice finish as the fireplace is in my sittingroom and I can’t afford to pull it out and replace it . I went into Homebase and bought Natural Hessian Satinwood for wood and metal. It is realy a nice colour and would like this to be my main colour for my fire mantilpiece. But after comeing across your website I am not sure now if this is the correct paint for what I want to do or shude I be using paint like yours,could you please help me and give me advice on this and what ealse I would need and each step I would have to take to compleate the whole thing. One more thing I forgot to say is that It is an open fire that I have I burn coal and sticks so I don’t know if that makes a difference in what paint should be used. Also would you be able to tell is their any Magazines about Caromal Colours for sale in the uk scotland.

    Kind Regards

  4. Hello Audrey,

    I am so excited to see that you are from Scotland! My great painter friend, Cait Whitson, is From Perthshire and actually came to the states to train with Caromal Colours! I just spoke with her and asked if she might hop on over here and pay your questions a visit, and she replied kindly that she would be more than happy to help you.

    • Hello Patty,

      I can’t thank you enuff for getting back to me, and that you took the time to contact your friend Cait in Perthshire Scotland to see if she would help me,that was realy nice of you Patty to do that for me and I am very greatfull.I receaved an email from your friend Cait saying that she will help me.I am going to reply to her after I finish this email to you. It is a small world is’nt it I don’t think we realise how small it is. Once again thank you so much Patty, and I will let you know how I get on. I am excited about this.

      Kind Regards

  5. Hi Audrey,
    Unfortunately Caromal Colours isn’t available in UK yet, which is a shame because we are dying to be able to teach it and sell it.
    We have a painting school and shop in Auchterarder in Perthshire. We do sell a similar type of paint that you can apply to the surface without priming and that you can create a shabby chic/distressed finish with – it is called Annie Sloan paint We are the only stockists in Scotland for this paint and I could easily send some to you or send charts etc. It is the EASIEST paint to work with and it would give you the exact look that Patty has shown above.
    The Dulux paint you have bought is a fine product for the job but you will need to buy a suitable primer and if that’s the way you want to go then I can tell you exactly what to buy.
    Let me know how I can help further and I will happily give you as much help as I can.
    We run classes in decorative painting so if you felt like a wee day out in Perthshire you know where to come too….LOL

    Funny how small the world is.

    Best wishes,
    Cait Whitson

    • Hello Cait,

      It was very nice of Patty to get in touch with you for me.So first of all I would like to thank you for contacting me and offering your help.It is very kind of you, and yes I would like your help,as you know I am wanting to do my fire Mantilpiece. It is pine it had a covering of wax that I did myself when it went in a few years ago, but it has gone a yellow orange colour and is not nice. So as you know I have Natural Hessian, but I also got Rust-Oleum,Stone (Bleached Stone) It says perfect for creating the natural look and feel of stone on interior wood,metal and ceramics. But I am not shure if this can be used on the Mantilpiece as it is an open fire I have. I want to get a warm old distressed look. What do you think what way would be the best to do? and yes please could you take me threw each step and could you please tell me what all I would need to do this. I am interested in your paints and would like a leaflet on them,do you think I would be better using them rather than what I have as I want to make a realy nice job of this. I am so so greatfull to you and Patty for very kindly offering your help.
      It would be nice to come threw to your shop and see all that you do and to find out about your classes, as you know I am in Inverness its not that far realy a couple of hours drive.

      And yes Cait it is a small world.

      Kind Regards

      • Audrey,
        First of all, Annie Sloan paints are the ONLY paints in the world, to the best of my knowledge………..and not being big headed, I am the original paint NERD….that will stick to waxed anything. Wax is the nightmare for paint. Seriously, no paint sticks to it.
        I was blown away when Annie said her paint stuck over wax…I actually didn’t believe her and so I tested, tested, tested………and guess what, it sticks.

        With Annie Sloan paint over wax..particularly over a surface like this where there has been a dusty fire next to it, I advise washing the surface with with a new green kitchen scrubby and sugar soap. You can buy sugar soap in any good diy store and most hardware stores. Wash it just like you were house cleaning.
        Then I would paint one or two coats of Annie Sloan paint on and sand back to reveal the wood colour beneath. Alterantively I would paint one colour beneath and then another, wax it, wipe it, sand it and wax again…giving a two colour distressed look. This is the most satisfying paint ever. You can stop half way problem, just start painting again; there is no curing time, if it feels dry and it looks dry it is dry..recoat, no problem; if you don’t like it paint straight over the problem….basically, no problem.

        If you want to use anything else you will need to strip the wax. Now stripping methods depend on what wax you used. Nearly all waxes are soluble with white spirit (mineral spirits for USA readers). The way that you remove these is with white spirit and a green scrubby pad – you must wear gloves for this as the solvent will severely dry your skin. Some painters will tell you to use wire wool and white spirit, but if you want to use a water based product after stripping then if there is even the tiniest shard of wire wool left it will rust in contact with water based products…so that is why I say use a green kitchen scrubby pad. Once you have removed the outer wax with white spirit and a scrubby pad I advise sanding with 120 grade sandpaper. If the sandpaper clogs and little dust is seen, then there is still wax on there so sand till it starts to produce dust.
        Once that is done I would advise a bonding primer named Zinsser Bullseye 123 – you can get it from your local Crown Decorating Centre in Inverness. Then you can paint your satinwood. Your Rustoleum Product that the spray? ….so this is getting complicated. We have covered prep for 2 different product types bt now I really need to know exactly what look you are going for to be able to say more.

        Much as I would love this conversation to remain on Patty’s Blog I am going to suggest you either email me on or call me Tuesday to Saturday 10 am till 5pm on 01764 660912. The shop/teaching studio is at 94 High Street Auchterarder…only if you plan to come and see me call…sometimes I am on-site and one of the girls are looking after ths shop. I have a terrible outdated website…but you can see what we

        I think what would be really helpful right now woukd be to have a picture of what you ultimately want it to look like…hoping you have some online pics or soemthing you can send me,

        Hope this helps


    • Hey honey it’s so great to be back on your blog…I have been so busy I just haven’t caught up with anyone.
      I wondered why you asked me how close Inverness was the other night.
      Now I know…
      I am trying to start a blog myself and need to pick your brains but another day, I have class tomorrow…a brand new one day class, I am so excited about it..nervous too and it is late so I will head to bed.
      Love what you are doing with Caromal Colours stuff…all looking fabulous of course! Sorry you have had so much drama with the house.
      Your Painty Pal

  6. Audrey, Cait came to the US last year and stayed a week with with my family – she taught a class to several of my artist friends – the art of woodgraining and marbling. She has amazing talent – you are in great hands!

  7. Pingback: Fabulously Finished

  8. Hi Patty,

    I am so intrigued by Caromal Colours. We are currently remodeling our kitchen and have “wasted” 2 weeks trying to decide on the perfect cream color. I stumbled on your information while desperately searching the internet for inspiration or color ideas. We have decided after watching alot of videos posted about caromal colours, to go ahead and give it a try. I hope it is as easy and beautiful as it appears. Also, hoping we order the correct amount. DH measured cabinets and determined we have approximately 300sq. ft. Hope he’s right!! So, I am ordering 1 kit in parchment as well as 1 gallon plus 1 additional qt. of parchment base coat. Then also ordering additional 32 oz. of toner plus additional 16oz. of toner. Going by amounts included in kit to cover approximately 50 sq. ft. Does this sound about right to you? You have an amazing website and love all of your step by step demo’s. Thanks for your time!

    Happy Decorating!!

    Brenda Kellen
    Coppell, Tx.

    • Hi Brenda,

      Sorry this is so late in replying- actually Al at Caromal Colours (when you call to order) is pretty helpful with ‘how much’ to order – based on your square footage, it sounds like you should have enough. What is your existing cabinet finish? White cabs? Oak? how dark? You’ll end up using less of a lighter color over light (like a white cab) than if you are starting over dark wood – might have ordered more toner than you need – it goes a long way…. let me know how it goes! patty

  9. Hi there…I love this look and the method looks so easy! I have a question though…we just had our cabinets painted white by a painter and now I have remorse because they are “too white”…so I was considering him applying a 3rd coat (which it needed anyway)…would your product work over white paint or does it need the dark wood under it? Also would a toner work over the white without needing a color such as the parchment paper?

    • Hello Talysa, What were your cabinets prior to painting? Wood? Did your follow the proper steps in application? Ie) surface prep, priming, etc? If so, then your painted white would be a fine base to go over with the textured basecoats – it bonds to nearly any solid surface (wood, laminate, melamine, formica, glass, plastic, metal etc) If you wanted to soften the white, and still need to cover a little, you could use Wisteria, then when dry do a light finish sand, apply toner, wipe off, then topcoat with a good water based polyurethane (use waterbased over light colors to prevent later chance of ambering)

      You can try the Toner over the existing paint finish – however if the finish is not solid and even the Toner won’t fix that, and may in fact enhance the thin areas. You’d first want to insure your paint layer is of solid coverage, then try brushing on the Toner and wiping off. I’d recommend trying it in an inconspicuous area (like an inside cabinet door) and see what you get. With your basecoat white a dry rag will leave a real antiqued color, and wiping with a wetter rag will leave it brighter (but the toner will remain in the crevices). Once completely dry you will need several coats of a good waterbased poly.

      Hope this helps! Patty

  10. Kitchen Cabinet Kit

    That is a great looking finish. When I bought my unfinished Kitchen Cabinet Kit sold by KitchenCabinetDepot, I used a different method to get my finish, however I am going to try yours out on my next project.

  11. Great, it is cool that you can make old things back to new.
    It is creative and very cheap to do it. The best method for a poor student. Well done!

  12. can you give suggestions on how to redo kitchen cabinets that will look like the ones on Paula Dean’s cooking show?
    thank you
    my cabinets are oak]

    • Jean, a post just for you –

      I would use Antique Parchment textured basecoat over your oak. Brush on several coats (like discussed on this actual post as well as the one in this new link) then when its dry lightly sand. It’s hard to see the detail detail of Paula’s cab’s, but from a distance it doesn’t look like the edges are sanded back to reveal a lot of distressing. So, I’d only sand enough to make my surface feel nice, and if I had any spots that bugged me (a clump of paint I didn’t catch while wet that was gathered in one spot) then I’d light sand those until they faded away. This would take you, say, a minute or two per door? Can use 220 sheet of paper, or a palm/mouse sander. Either will do.

      When you’re done with that, wipe off with dry rag, then brush on the CC Toner and wipe off with a damp rag. Paula’s cab’s have a nice antique/aged look to them – the toner will get you there effortlessly. As you wipe, you’ll be able to determine how much you want to leave on or take off – its all up to you.

      Good luck, and let me know what you think !!

  13. Pingback: Taxes Done? Kitchen Cabinets Done? Feelin Groovy… | Fabulously Finished

  14. Hi Patty, I just saw this post, I really like the look of the coffee glaze. How do the wall glazes compare to the Reclaim antiquing glaze?


    • Hi Joanne, the Coffee Glaze is very much like the REclaim Antiquing Glaze, only different color. The Tea Glaze is more similar to the Reclaim color, just slightly yellower. The Coffee has more red in it.

  15. Regi Gilchrist

    Hi Patty! I see that this product works on laminate, but what about Thermofoil (vinyl-wrapped) cabinets? If it will work on that, I’ll be in heaven! 🙂


    • Do you see the angels with their halos? It bonds perfectly to Thermofoil 🙂 A tip – those thermofoil warps peel off clean, so if you have loose or peeling spots, pull it off, and paint over the remains.

  16. Regi Gilchrist

    You just made my year!!! Thanks so much! 🙂

  17. Good information. Lucky me I found your website by chance (stumbleupon).
    I’ve book-marked it for later!

  18. I need help!
    I recently painted my kitchen cabinets and was told that I could antique/accent paint them using watered down paint instead of glaze. I was told to use a foam brush to apply the watered down paint the the crevices of the door. When I would attempt to wipe it off it would nearly entirely wipe off, so I would then have to re-apply. I am very unhappy with the way the cabinets have turned out. How do I fix them without completely starting over?

    • Don’t know how to help you there Crystal – I never use watered down paint to glaze anything, I use glaze. Even with glaze we apply it to the whole door, not to the crevices only because its too difficult to make it uniform looking otherwise, JMO. I’d guess you are stuck right now, if your paint has dried…

      • …if I sand the doors down enough to get rid of the brown (watered down) paint in the cracks and crevices would I have to re-prime everything or do you think I could just paint the doors and then use glaze to antique?

        • oh I dont think you have to reprime – you’re going over your painted surface that is still there and uncompromised. make sure you are letting everything adequate dry time in between – dont rush your project. did you seal your cabs?

          • i did not seal them. I was going for the look you have shown above. So if I sand the doors enough to get rid of the darker paint I used can I just use the glaze you sell to go over the doors or do I need to use the basecoat also?

            One other thing…I painted my lower cabinets the darker color that I used to attemtp to antique/accent my upper cabinets…it is kind of a brown/gray color (I love it)…what are the chances of getting a glaze that will look good with the bottom cabinets?

            • again, hard for me to know what you’ve got or what you’ll end up as you’re working with products I don’t use – I would say, without seeing what you have, NO you can’t sand whats there off then simply jump to a glaze – once you sand you are going to scuff the existing surface in those areas – a glaze wont fix that – your paint surface needs to be EVEN , then glaze and wipe back and you’ll get a soft highlight.

              as far as glazing the lowers, if your cabinets are too dark the glazes we have wont really show up much – they are very subtle and translucent…. you’ d have to make your own glaze to get a color that will work for your cabs….

  19. Hi Patty, Patti here. Really love this look. What is the benefit of the Parchment Textured Basecoat over an off white regular paint? I have off white cabinets but want to antique them like in your examples but wasn’t sure if it would work over regular paint. Thank you!

  20. well, off white regular paint wont bond to anything without first being primed and primed – the TB’s will stick to anything and stay put once its dry. The glaze is simply a finishing option if one chooses an antiquing look. you can try to see the effect you’ll get using the glaze over your existing cabs – i’ve had folks try it – it can give you an antiqued effect but cant guarantee what you’ll get, it can vary depending on your existing cabinet finish… you might find that it takes differently on various sections – say, around your grab/knob areas , where theres more wear than you think. for long term durabliity you’d want to topcoat over the glaze, otherwise with wiping/washing you’ll probably see it wear.

  21. Hi Patty, I love your website and your blogs. I wish I had come across it earlier…
    I have a huge dilemma. Recently I tried to reclaim my one-year old, red-chestnut stained oak cabinets, along with the antiquing glaze and they came out horrendous! I used bright white with the glaze. Well, after applying the glaze, it barely gave me enough time to dab off or wipe off the cabinet before the glaze would dry up. All I could get in was one, maybe two swipes and that’s it. As a result, my cabinets are patchy with streaks, and they look dirty! I am so disappointed and broken over this project. I have a very large kitchen, and I’ve spent countless hours painting 37 cabinet doors plus drawers.

    I am emotionally ready to redo this thing over again to achieve the look above. Since you mention that toner stays “open” longer, would it be a better option to use? I am scared to use glaze now. Would toner work on off-white reclaim as opposed to the textured base coat as it would be easier to roll on the paint? Is my kitchen salvageable?
    Any advice would be helpful. Thanks a bunches.

    • Hi Jackie,

      should NOT have had any issue with the glaze setting up UNLESS you moved too quickly – the reclaim paint takes glaze nicely, BUT you must wait a good 3-5 days MINIMUM before you can apply that glaze – and depending on where you live (ie weather conditions, humidity) it can even benefit you to wait a few days longer. i tell all my customers wait at LEAST 5 days. if you apply too soon it will tack up the paint and be harder to move around, remove, manipulate etc, much like what you described. When the proper time has gone by and the glaze is applied, it wipes off easily and evenly.

      now, you’re question about the TONER – the toner IS NOT YOUR ANSWER! Yikes, please dont do that – dont get me wrong, i LOVE the Toner – it is one of my favorite products, BUT it’s job IS to create a worn, antiqued, aged effect – it will bite in MORE than the glazes do – so if you cabinets are too dark now, you’re NOT going to want the toner. with the white and offwhites of the caromal paints, i prefer to use the glazes – they are subtle and easier to use and control, over the COLORS of their paints i prefer the Toner.

      What you’ll probably need to do is reapply 1 coat of white, to give a light evenness again, THEN wait 5 days, they reapply the glaze and you should be good to go.

      when you apply the glaze, do one door / drawer at a time, brush on then wipe off…. should be beautiful! good luck.

  22. Thank you Patty for your advice. I have waited 4 days for paint to dry before I applied the glaze. I will do what you suggest and apply another coat of white, and retry the glaze after about a week. My island is painted with mocha so glazed cabs would give a nice contrast. I have found that the wall tea glaze is similar in color to the antiquing glaze, and much cheaper. I’ve seen in your samples that it was used over painted wood too, so is it suitable to buy a quart and use for cabinets since I’m almost out of the antiquing glaze anyway? Or should the coffee color be better as it looks like it is a bit warmer? As a crafty person myself, I value your professional opinion, but when it comes to paint…I’m less than a novice. lol

  23. Yes Jackie, the Tea and Coffee glaze are much better price points than the Reclaim Glaze- i feel like the Reclaim glaze is like a mix of both, then the Coffee Glaze is browner (even hint of red to it ) and the Tea Glaze is warmer (hint of green/yellow). We use those wall glazes ALL the time with the textured basecoats, and the Reclaim paint too. I’d say all their glazes are much the same EXCEPT for the pre tinted color. if you’ve already used the reclaim glaze on some cabs, and you’re continuing on, dont get a different one cuz you WILL notice a different in color. but if you are repainting that island and need to glaze just get the coffee or tea.

    i see the tea as warmer than the coffee – the tea is warmer like the reclaim glaze BUT a little greener/yellow looking. the coffee is browner, but sometimes i see a hint of pink/red in it – hope this helps!

  24. Hello. I have a new home with white thermafoil cabinets. Can I use a toner or glaze to give them a slight antiquing? Will the finish last? What product would be best? Do you have any examples? Thanks!

    • Amanda, are your cabinets brand new? if they are you can try to use one of the products over to antique, the toner will have more effect, than the glaze, an you’d have to topcoat over that once its dry. if your cabinets are not brand new then you might find that the glaze/toner does not go on even – sun exposure, handling, dirt, wear – all those things can effect a finish on existing cabinets – to the eye they might look fine – often you wont know until you put something over them. i dont have examples though we have demo’d it before. typically folks dont have brand new cabinets that they want to tweek, they usually are older cabinets, and I dont like to recommend it as it usually results in an uneven finish.

  25. Hello Patty, I am working with my sister on a kitchen project in a house in Branson, MO. The owners live in Chicago and this is their getaway house on the lake. They have completely redone the inside of the house and I need to texture and glaze the new stove hood that has been build over the stove. I want to use Caramol Colors to do the texturing and glazeing. I am needing help on how to bid the job. I have done alot of faux finishing but I have not bid something like this before. I mainly do furniture. Where would be a good place for me to start, by the foot or estimate hourly. What price range should I charge. I dont want to over charge but I dont want to donate my time which is what I usually do. Could you please please please give me some professional advice.
    Thanks so much and I love all your posts.
    Cindy Darnaby

    • Hi Cindy, sorry so late, Im trying to catch up on all my e’s – something like a range hood, or the decorative area over the store, I’d price by the hour and then calc in your materials. Think out what each step would be – cleaning, taping, each layer, all the way to topcoating. if theres other stuff you are doing at the house then this should be sufficent, time wise – just add up your estimated product/mtls costs and arrive at a number. However, if you are only doing this, and have to leave and come back due to drying times etc, then you need to compensate for your trips/gas etc….. no fun having to stretch out a small project over 5 days due to dry times etc….

      as a sidenote, when calculating materials, be sure to add in things like shipping costs to get the products to you, if you are using something that isn’t local – when i was doing walls most of my products were from out of state – you need to add that into your cost of doing the job. also, if its a common product that you’ll use on other jobs then you can gage that ‘portion’ of product you might use of each item, knowing you’ll recoup the rest on a future job. otherwise the total price is charged to a job, even if you only use 1/2.

      hope this helps!

  26. You’re so cool! I don’t think I’ve truly read anything like this before. So good to discover another person with a few unique thoughts on this subject. Really.. thank you for starting this up. This site is something that is required on the web, someone with a little originality!

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