Caromal Colour Painting Oak Cabinet Door Start To Finish…

I get alot of questions about  ‘How To’  apply Caromal Colour’s Textured Basecoats  ‘smoothly’,  or with the least amount of texture, onto cabinets or furniture.  I always make certain to explain that these paints will NOT  look like a sprayed paint finish coat,  but rather have a look all their own  -one that I think offers a lovely updated finish for cabinets and furniture alike.

The following is a photo play-by-play applying  Caromal Colour’s Textured Basecoat Parchment over an older oak stained cabinet door, and how I arrive at a smoother finish coat.   If you click on each photo, it will blow up in even bigger detail.

I started with honey oak stained door and taped off bottom so that it can be exposed at the end-

Product used – Caromal Colours Textured Basecoat  Color  Parchment-

and a simple chip brush

First, apply the first coat –

There you have the first layer.  Yikes,  ugly!  It’s not even…  its not smooth.  Curses, brush marks!  🙂

The first layer, I think, takes the most time to apply.   I also think that the light colors like Parchment and Wisteria, don’t cover as well as the other colors when you apply it thinner and smoother like this application.  Be patient, it will all come together!

It should be nice and dry in a few hours,  but I blew dry mine so we could continue on –

On to the second coat.  Start again,   get enough on your brush,  touch down on the surface, then start pushing it around – push it/smear it (does that explain it?)  –

You aren’t using alot of product.  You’re pushing and smearing around whats there – by doing this its actually helping even out the painted surface – filling in the thinner areas from layer 1 –

As you’re applying that second layer, and pushing and smearing, always do a final pull of your brush – in the same downward direction (the top  and bottom run brush to the left and right) . Doing this will remove that textural look –

If you find the product isn’t smoothing out nicely,   dip the tips of your brush into a little bit of water, shake it off, then glide over your surface again –

and your second layer is done.    Now, depending on how you applied the product,  how thin you brushed it etc ,   you COULD still have areas, here and there,  that don’t look completely covered.  In my sample, below, you can see several areas that still look thin –

What to do?  Simple.   Wait till it dries,  which won’t take as long as layer one, because it wasn’t applied very thick,  then simply get your brush out and paint JUST those areas that are bothering you –

No, it doesn’t take long, and it barely uses any product.  Not all doors will need finesssing.  You might not finesse anything,  I might do a couple spots on each door,  Sally might spend five minutes on each door, detailing every bit of the surface.  The point is, theres no right or wrong.  Its all about what look YOU want…. and, how much time YOU want to put into it.   I purposely don’t spend alot of detail time on my cabinet samples.   I want to see how simple and easy I can make something – and with that attitude, what look it will deliver me –

This is a good photo where you can see the thinner areas. This last little brush around will cover it –

All dry, and reading for a finish sanding –

Can’t beat a palm/mouse sander.  Under $40 at Home Depot/Lowes,  or you can use sand paper (150-220 grit) –

You give the surface a quick sand because it makes it FEEL much nicer.  I spent maybe 10 seconds on this door, if that.   I didn’t sand inside the groove areas.  If I did I’d have used sand paper for that.  Could I have/Should I have?  It depends on what look you are going for.  In my case,  I am okey with a more distressed look.  You can see I buzzed the edges with my sander (simply angle the sander and apply a little pressure) to reveal the wood underneath –

I’m done sanding.   I dry rag wipe off any dust, then break out the Toner.  The Toner is a great staining type glaze that warms up your painted surface.   It comes in one color only, and depending on how much you wipe off, will change the color of of your finish. For the Parchment/Wisteria color basecoats I also like what it looks like to use Caromal Colours Coffee or Tea Glaze instead of Toner.

I taped this door off, and here, on the top, I am brushing on the Toner –

and wiped it off with a damp rag  (and pulled the tape off) –

I tape the panel again,  to split it into two sections,  and pull out the Caromal Colours Coffee Glaze  and Tea Glaze-

Tea Glaze –

and Coffee Glaze.   The Caromal Colours Wall Glazes were created for walls.  They are very translucent, which means the color left behind, when you wipe it away, is very subtle – it won’t bite into the finish as much as the Toner-

You only need a dry rag to wipe off the glaze .  Could have applied a little pressure and wiped off even more –

In Review,   an oak door refinished using Caromal Colours Parchment Textured Basecoat.  2 brushed layers, a few spots touched after that,  about a 10 second  sanding applied to the flat surfaces, and then Toner and Glazes brushed on and wiped off –

Once dry (give it 24 hours before topcoating),  apply a topcoat to your cabinet finish, and move on to your next project.    But…   let’s say you want it less distressed looking –

How can I apply the textured paints so that the surface is the smoothest?

See the photo below?  It’s very close up.  See the middle panel?  I got out the mouse sander and sanded a little more, and then re-brushed on the Toner and damp ragged it off.    Do you see how, by doing that it made it much smoother?

Here, I’ll re-sand that whole panel –

So, yes, you can get a pretty smooth, consistent final finish coat, but it will require more sanding than the quick and easy 5-10 seconds I did. You will also risk sanding down so much that you start to get thin areas.  See above?  I could have used a piece of sand paper and easily sanded out some of those ridges in the inner groves.  Or that globby that I see on the little molded piece.

Let’s reapply the Toner –

Wipe off with rag, and then a quick pull down with a dry brush-

Done.   The outer edges were lightly sanded.  The inner areas weren’t sanded at all, and the front panel was sanded more.  Pardon my sloppy looking glaze around that front panel, its because I brushed over that outer edge twice, and now its heavier.  I could have prevented that my taping first –

My favorite look is  a blend of these two –  I could have spent a little more time mouse sanding the flat surfaces.  Had I spent, maybe 20 seconds on the door,  I’d have had a less distressed finish.  However, I am one that DOES like a little bit of those brush tracks – to me it adds to a more wood looking finish.  Almost like a grain.  I also could have spent a minute with a piece of sand paper, knocking out a couple heavier areas that I left inside the groove area.    But that’s just me.

So…………..Tell me,   what do you think?  Remember, here is the before –

ARE YOU READY TO GET SOME CAROMAL COLOURS FOR YOURSELF?

Head to my store below (click icon) and be sure to use my code, PattyH in the coupon code area.   It will save you $2 off shipping,  or if you’re order is $75 or more use my PattyH5 for $5 off shipping.

CaromalColoursAnimated125

 

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24 responses to “Caromal Colour Painting Oak Cabinet Door Start To Finish…

  1. Thanks for the painting tutorial. I’m always looking for new ideas.

  2. Glad to be of help Dianna!

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  8. I needed help in painting my cabinets in my kitchen distressed black.
    can you help?

  9. Im wanting to redo my countertops they are the old white with gold speckels can you tell me how to go about this im looking at the peppercorn color .do i need to put something over that? thank you

  10. Hi Patty!

    I would like your expertise… I own a 60 year old home with original cabinets. Other than the way they look, they are in terrific shape. Last year, I decided I wanted them painted black. I stipped the 7-layers of paint off of them and then primed and painted them with an oil based black paint. I like the way it looks, but it is a little glossy and I would like it to be more distressed. I LOVE the way Caromal Colours looks! Should I use the “reclaim” panit or the “texture” paint? I saw on HSN that they have black in the “reclaim”. I like the look of the texture and I want it to be distressed. Please help! What paint should I use? What type of prep should I do and what should I finish it off with so it will last a long time? Thanks SO much for your help!

  11. Hi Allison,

    So often its the old that is the nicest quality….

    Sorry you didn’t know about the Caromal paints BEFORE you stripped all that paint!

    Now that Reclaim has the black, you could use either- but you like the look of ‘distressed/texture’ –

    First – did you see my post on the Reclaim black? ( read it here if you didnt – https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/06/10/marty-needs-some-reclaim-paint-advice-mocha-or-licorice/ ) take a look at that black finish …. i sanded a few edges to show how you CAN distress it if you want – do you like THAT finish? if so, go with the reclaim – it IS easier than the textured basecoats, easier meaning less time to get the job done- you’re rolling paint vs. brushing and light sanding etc …

    but on the flip, the textured basecoats are pretty darn cool – you can do alot of different things with them – for certain you can lay the texture thicker and create cool effects – and the finish overall is more ‘distressed’ – like a soft weathered finish – whereas the Reclaim finish is more of a painted satin finish ….

    It comes down to personal choice. Both will work. Both will bond over your painted cabinets. Just make sure your cabs and clean and wax free – and dry!

    The Reclaim has a built in sealer , the TB’s dont – for extra durability you can use your favorite topcoat if you have one – I prefer the Wipe-on poly’s from minwax – here is a good post on topcoat choices https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/05/11/wipe-on-top-coat-comparison-guide/

    if you still cant decide which paint line to run with, i offer 3 inch wood samples that i will do up for you – they are three bucks each – i could do one in tex basecoat peppercorn and one in reclaim licorice. https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/01/12/how-to-order-samples-colors-of-caromal-colours-distress-finishes/

    just let me know. hope this helps! patty

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  13. I am very excited to get started. I haven’t seen any examples with laminate cabinets. I have the 80s white laminate with oak on top and below the cabinet and the base where the cabinets are screwed into. How do these cabinets turn out? Thanks
    Phyllis-Ann

  14. Patty, How many cabinets can you do with a gallon of the Textured basecoat?

    • Hi Lindsey, the quarts go 35-50 sf depending on application and color – the COLORS go further over oak than the wisteria or parchment . when I’ve applied the TB’s in a smoother application, i can average about 6 cabinet doors (2 coats both sides door and their surround area) to a quart. that is a color, so if you’re using light over darker work expect less. multiply that by 4 gives you 24 doors per gallon – id say 23-24 if you’re using a color, and maybe 20 if you’re using the white/offwhite.

  15. Is the PattyH5 coupon still valid? I tried entering it and stated “coupon does not exist” Thank you

    • Hi Lynn, the 5 off shipping for orders over 75 was removed last year when we restructured our shipping rates. Since the beginning, I’ve always had a ‘credit back’ policy, where I credit back a customers card (or paypal, whichever they used) the difference in shipping if they paid more than it actually was. When the coupon was used, it was deducted from the difference, meaning if I owed you 5 bucks back in shipping I called it a wash because you paid 5 less in shipping. for any other orders, where a customer overpaid, I didn’t ‘keep’ it figuring ‘well , if they’d have taken the time to find our shipping coupon they would have saved…’ The whole calculating shipping rates is a PIA because our types of products don’t fit into the easy-to-calculate rate – theres too much variation – some paints are super heavy, others items weigh next to nothing, some are in big containers, some in little, and then last year the post office introduced the regional rate boxes and that messed everything up! so I recalculated a new rates table (in the past I used the industry standard table) based on our actual customer orders, averaging them out several different ways. The new table charges less than the old rates did – so EVERYONE saves without having to dig or a coupon, and with that said, I STILL continue to ccredit back if there is an overpayment, but it occurs much less now, and no, the numerous times I take a hit and have to pay more for shipping than what the table charged, I don’t go back and request more from you. There is at least one time a month that our shipping charge to you will come up as $15, and when I print the label its almost double that – it sucks big time (usually its to my customers on the west coast, and when they order our heaviest products). So I know it sucks that there aren’t coupons anymore, it makes people think their paying more, but we try to be as fair as we can, and often, when we get customers that order a decent # of items we’ll toss in a goody or two, and we also shave off shipping costs as the order amount rises – I think orders over 350 are free shipping.

      with all that said, the reason we have the coupon field still is for things like gift certificate codes, one time only codes etc….

    • The 5 off shipping for orders over 75 was removed last year when we restructured our shipping rates. Since the beginning, I’ve always had a ‘credit back’ policy, where I credit back a customers card (or paypal, whichever they used) the difference in shipping if they paid more than it actually was. When the coupon was used, it was deducted from the difference, meaning if I owed you 5 bucks back in shipping I called it a wash because you paid 5 less in shipping. for any other orders, where a customer overpaid, I didn’t ‘keep’ it figuring ‘well , if they’d have taken the time to find our shipping coupon they would have saved…’ The whole calculating shipping rates is a PIA because our types of products don’t fit into the easy-to-calculate rate – theres too much variation – some paints are super heavy, others items weigh next to nothing, some are in big containers, some in little, and then last year the post office introduced the regional rate boxes and that messed everything up! so I recalculated a new rates table (in the past I used the industry standard table) based on our actual customer orders, averaging them out several different ways. The new table charges less than the old rates did – so EVERYONE saves without having to dig or a coupon, and with that said, I STILL continue to credit back if there is an over payment, but it occurs much less now, and no, the numerous times I take a hit and have to pay more for shipping than what the table charged, I don’t go back and request more from you. There is at least one time a month that our shipping charge to you will come up as $15, and when I print the label its almost double that – it sucks big time (usually its to my customers on the west coast, and when they order our heaviest products). So I know it sucks that there aren’t coupons anymore, it makes people think their paying more, but we try to be as fair as we can, and often, when we get customers that order a decent # of items we’ll toss in a goody or two, and we also shave off shipping costs as the order amount rises – I think orders over 350 are free shipping.

      with all that said, the reason we have the coupon field still is for things like gift certificate codes, one time only codes etc….

      On Sat, Jan 16, 2016 at 9:26 PM, Fabulously Finished wrote:

      >

  16. Hi Patty. I really like the kitchen Island you did with the peppercorn. How did you get the edges just slightly distressed? I do not like the heavy distressed look, just slightly. And did you put a toner over it? Also……is this paint really durable? We will be using it on oak kitchen cabinets for a rental property. As far as a protectant, what product would you recommend for the last coat, like a sealer? Thanks and hope to be purchasing paint from you soon. One last question: is the chocolate color much lighter than the peppercorn?

    • Hi Brenda, You just lightly sand the areas you want distressed. Toner is pretty over the Black/Peppercorn, but is not a sealer.We carry a Satin & Matte sealer ( personal choice) that works great. The paint is VERY durable. Chocolate is a warm brown, APC Crushed Tea is not really Grey and we typically recommend the Reclaim or Text Base paints for cabinets anyway.If you look through our site, we have many before/after pics, tutorials etc….. Hope this helps.

      On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 8:48 PM, Fabulously Finished wrote:

      > Brenda Wasko commented: “Hi Patty. I really like the kitchen Island you > did with the peppercorn. How did you get the edges just slightly > distressed? I do not like the heavy distressed look, just slightly. And did > you put a toner over it? Also……is this paint really durable? We” >

  17. It’s Brenda again. Is the American Paint Co. “Crushed Tea” paint comparable to the Peppercorn? Are they a similar product? Pros and cons comparatively? Is the Crushed Tea color close to a gray? Or do you offer a gray color in one of the products to re-do kitchen cabinets? Than
    ks!

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