Waxing, Dark Waxing, Tinted Waxing, Over Chalk/Clay Paints…

My favorite Antiquing Wax  is American Paint Company’s Vintage Dark Antiquing Wax– it’s just like the Clear Waxes I love (both APC and CeCe Caldwell have  luscious, all natural clear waxes) – except their Vintage Dark version is tinted.  I use it when I want to add a subtle aging effect to my  painted finish.  It seals and ages all in one step,  glides on easy, dries fast, and buffs to a nice sheen.

This was that chest I posted about, painted with APC’s Liberty,  the dark wax used directly over the raw paint,  here I’m wiping the excess wax off


that’s pretty good control going over a color as fair as Liberty –  to me it looks   naturally antiqued   (you can find a complete post on this piece here)


See the chair to the right? It was painted with CeCe Caldwell Nantucket Spray – it’s a light blueish greenish color, even lighter than APC’s Liberty-



Here it is,  sealed with APC’s Vintage Dark Wax –



It definitely changes the color – no longer that light Nantucket Spray, it’s got a natural age to it –




Some tinted waxes are too strong over the absorbent chalk/clay paints and darken the paint color too much, biting in fast and then not moving around easily.  Those waxes are better combo’d  with a clear barrier wax first.

Liberon Black Bison Wax is a paste wax -,  a blend of paraffin, microcrystalline and carnauba, blended together with mineral spirits.  It isn’t all green and natural, like the CeCe and American Paint products, but at least its toluene free and is considered non-toxic

Liberon Bison Wax Medium Oak 500 ml

The Liberon wax works great over the Caromal Colours paints that we carry,  and Ill occasionally  use it over our medium to dark color  chalk/clay paints when a more intense aged effect is desired.
It’s when I want to ‘dirty’ up the color.  It will have a stronger effect than the APC Dark,  it dries SUPER fast and polishes up to a really nice sheen.
I used it to seal and age this Cece Caldwell Michigan Pine hutch
I could have aged this with the Cece Dark Aging Cream, its easy enough to control over the dark colors and the Michigan Pine is dark, but it takes a really long time to dry,  and I  find it doesn’t buff to as nice a sheen as their Clear Wax version.
Instead, using the Liberon Medium Oak Wax,  I scrubbed it on quick, wiped the excess off, and by time  I was done with the piece it was already drying enough to buff.  It polished to this sheen with a simple cotton rag, I can’t imagine what it would have done with the buffing drill brush!
Here is CeCe Caldwell’s Smoky Mountain Gray, one of my favorite colors, combo’d with CeCe’s Simply White on the drawers, all sealed with Topcoat Finish –
A smoky blue gray


This is ALSO CeCe Caldwell Smoky Mountain Gray,  crackled with glue over a black base-

I used the Liberon Medium Oak wax to seal it –
Doesn’t look smoky or blue or gray anymore…
I love the color this combo makes – it changes it to almost a earthly, antiqued blue green color…   I get asked about it alot at the store…
If you like your finishes to be as perfect as possible, clean and even looking , then you’re probably better off sticking to the easy to use tinted waxes – American Paint ‘s Dark wax is like the clear with tint in it.   Or if you only have  CeCe Caldwell or APC’s Clear Wax,  try tinting your own  colored wax – it’s easy to do with  powder  pigments. We carry the pigments in a variety of colors
in as little as 1 ounce pots (trust me, a little goes a long way),  perfect for mixing your own  ‘Brown Oxide  wax’
I like doing this because it not only allows me choices in my final wax color, but I can also control how weak or strong I want my colored wax to be.  I’ll mix up my color waxes tinted enough to be a subtle antiquing over my chalk/clay paint finish.  Then when I want to add a punch of depth to detail, or a small piece, I’ll scoop some of that out and add a little more brown oxide pigment – its easy!
But, if you like to go out on a limb once and awhile,  and like the look of a richly aged painted finish – then try Liberon.    I use 2 colors,  the Medium Oak and/or the Walnut –  both are medium brown waxes with the oak being a wee bit warmer.  They are lovely with colors like Michigan Pine and National Forest, Pittsburgh Gray and Freedrom Road, and even adds a nice warmth to the darkest of our chalk/clay paints- Beckley Coal and Lincoln’s Hat.
I should note,  the Liberon we sell comes in a big can – I’d call it pint size.  I don’t make as much profit off this one as I do on the other product lines I sell  – so I don’t want you to think I’m pushing it to make money – it’s just one more tool that I  grab when I need it, and for certain looks,  it’s the perfect performer.
Remember though,  Liberon wax is  NOT  ZERO VOC, so if you like the CeCe Caldwell and American Paint lines because of the green and natural factor, then you won’t want to spoil that with a non green wax.           Happy Finishing!



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2 responses to “Waxing, Dark Waxing, Tinted Waxing, Over Chalk/Clay Paints…

  1. Patti – a little advice, please?
    I’ve painted a couple of pieces with several different products, including my beloved Young Kansas Wheat and ASCP’s Coco. I used clear than dark wax on them. One set was then ASCP dark wax, another Briwax, and another Liberon dark. All of the darker waxes turn my pieces from these great grays and browns to really wonderful gray greens. I really like them.

    That’s fine, but I’m going to do a couple of pieces I want to remain brown, cream and gray.

    Other than clear, is there something that won’t bring out a green tint in the paint? I’ve made griege wax (briwax + Varathane Sunbleached stain + a tiny bit of Young Kansas Wheat dried up), but it’s not dark enough. I hesitate to add more dark wax.

    What would you suggest?
    Thank you!

    • I dont think i can help you on this one – i dont use the solvent waxes – except liberon, but i use it as it (ie) tinted in whatever color i get it in – i dont alter it. when i have to create my own colored wax i use pigments.

      What are you trying to get to ? a darker brown? a cream with brown highlight? a gray with brown highlight? when you use tinted waxes over raw absorbant paints, you are going to change your color – all over – not just ‘in the cracks/crevices…’ your creme wont be creme anymore, but an altered color. when i want my gray or creme or brown to be highlighted – in whatever accent color … i glaze it.

      For the most control, i almost always (unless im going over dark colors of chalk/clay) use APC Topcoat first, one pass – let it soak in and seal up the paint. when that dries i’ll glaze my finish – i can glaze creme with a dark brown glaze , brush it on, wipe it off and my creme will remain creme but the brown will settle where i leave it. if i want to still give it a wax feel, i’ll clear wax OVER it once its good and dry.

      Theres so many ways to add to character to a painted finish, using glazes, but many dont realize the potential as they’ve been sold on ‘only wax, only wax only wax…’

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