Sometimes I repaint a piece before it’s dry- we’ve all done that right? I won’t like how it’s turning out, and next thing you know I’m off on a whole different paint planet.
This desk was a different story. I painted it in March, and it’s been on the showroom floor ever since. Last week I pulled it BACK to the workroom to give it a paint makeover, and go figure, I never shared the details from the FIRST paint job!
So, let’s back up…
The FIRST paint job had visions of CeCe Caldwell Georgia Clay and American Paint Co Saddle, a newer saddle brown color – with some dark dirty Liberon wax to richen it up like old leather –
I spruced up the tattered leather top by troweling multiple layers of old wall metallic plasters, that I still have on hand from my faux finishing days
and went to working painting – first layer CeCe Caldwell Georgia Clay
By george, she really does paint with those cheap chippy brushes!
Here’s that newer brown color from American Paint Company, a true leather Saddle brown –
That would be my second coat, and while I was at it, I figured I’d brush on a little more Georgia Clay (wet on wet ) to soften it up
Someone recently asked me about ‘wet on wet’. I happened to have a photo of this, where I have two colors on the same plate – I’ll grab one, or the other, or sometimes both at the same time, most always using the same brush, and then I’ll paint those on, using water in the mix (see my water dipping bowl?) to help soften and blend
Once the desk was dry, I sanded to smooth out and refine my finish, distressing areas of interest, and then I grabbed my Liberon brown bison wax. I don’t usually use this wax, as it IS solvent based – kindof defeats the purpose of using these 100% all natural, chalk/clay based paints, right? I prefer the all natural dark wax by APC – it dries quick and buffs up fab, but for this finish I wanted dirty and grungy, and I knew the Liberon would do that better
When I was doing faux finishes on walls I’d often trowel the Liberon wax right over our metallic plaster finishes – it would add a richness and sheen (it burnishes like a charm) that was beautiful – only problem with this wax is you REALLY need to make sure you remove it before repainting ( mineral spirits, straight white vinegar works too) else you’ll have problems with adhesion
This picture below shows you the one side still unwaxed, and the difference it made in the final color.
That liberon dries so fast, by time I was done applying I buffed out the whole piece
I was happy with the results, but one small regret was that it looked too much like an original wood finish –
Love how the back is detailed and the sides rounded out…
Last week I pulled the piece to try something new. I had previously finished this desk last year using Vermont Slate and black stain
and I knew that was the direction I wanted to go. Now here’s where it gets BAD!
THIS IS AN EMERGENCY BREAK!
DO NOT DO THE FOLLOWING!
I painted right over the old finish, KNOWING it was waxed, KNOWING it need to be be cleaned with a remover first, knowing all that but not paying any attention to it. I decided on American Paint color Lincoln’s Hat, and sealed it with APC’s dark wax –
I must think I’m invincible right? That somehow, my painting will stick to a previously SOLVENT waxed finish. Right?
W R O N G.
Don’t cut corners. If you wax up a piece, and plan on re-painting it, give it a cleaning first – mineral spirits work or full strength white vinegar (I’d use that for the natural waxes like APC and CeCe but not sure its strong enough for solvent based waxes). I’d even give it a light scuffing. If you don’t chances are you’ll end up like me, with a new paint finish thats soft and will scratch off any and everywhere. I literally had to sand the WHOLE piece down – stupid stupid stupid!
The blacker Lincoln’s Hat was pretty but I wanted more dimension, so this THIRD time I grabbed CeCe’s Vermont Slate and Mississippi Mud….
Mostly this was a one coat finish – I used both colors, blended together to make I’m not sure what but I liked how it was turning out… relying on water to keep me going, and areas that were too thin got a second going over, right away.
The plasters on top didn’t work to my liking so I used the Slate and the Mud on top, then layed a plastic bag into to and smooshed, so it would give it a little bit of leathery texture. The desk top edges were mostly Slate, to give it more definition
When that was all done I sanded a little, then sealed it up with a custom mix – clear wax, apc dark wax, and some black pigment –
These little spots were just perfect for a smoky black diamond swarovski
as were the front’s of each knob… you know this girl’s gotta have her bling!
Hopefully Mr. or Mrs. Right finds their match with this pretty piece
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