How Often Do You Repaint A Piece Of Furniture?

Sometimes I repaint a piece before it’s dry-   we’ve all done that right? I won’t like how it’s turning out, and next thing you know I’m off on a whole different paint planet.

This desk was a different story.   I painted it in March, and it’s been on the showroom floor ever since.     Last week I pulled it BACK to the workroom to give it a paint makeover, and go figure, I never shared the details from the FIRST paint job!

So, let’s back up…

The FIRST paint job had visions of CeCe Caldwell Georgia Clay and American Paint Co Saddle, a newer saddle brown color – with some dark dirty Liberon wax to richen it up like old leather –

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I spruced up the tattered leather top by troweling multiple layers of old wall metallic plasters, that I still have on hand from my faux finishing days

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and went to working painting – first layer CeCe Caldwell Georgia Clay

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By george, she really does paint with those cheap chippy brushes!

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Here’s that newer brown color from American Paint Company, a true leather Saddle brown –

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That would be my second coat, and while I was at it, I figured I’d brush on a little more Georgia Clay  (wet on wet ) to soften it up

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Someone recently asked me about  ‘wet on wet’. I happened to have a photo of this, where I have two colors on the same plate –  I’ll grab one, or the other, or sometimes both at the same time, most always using the same brush,   and then I’ll paint those on, using water in the mix (see my water dipping bowl?)  to help soften and blend

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Once the desk was dry, I sanded to smooth out and refine my finish, distressing areas of interest, and then I grabbed my Liberon brown bison wax.   I don’t usually use this wax, as it IS solvent based – kindof defeats the purpose of using these 100% all natural,  chalk/clay based paints, right?   I prefer the all natural dark wax by APC – it dries quick and buffs up fab,  but for this finish I wanted dirty and grungy, and I knew the Liberon would do that better

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When I was doing faux finishes on walls I’d often trowel the Liberon wax right over our metallic plaster finishes – it would add a richness  and sheen (it burnishes like a charm)  that was beautiful – only problem with this wax is you REALLY need to make sure you remove it before repainting ( mineral spirits, straight white vinegar works too) else you’ll have problems with adhesion

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This picture below shows you the one side still unwaxed, and the difference it made in the final color.

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That liberon dries so fast, by time I was done applying I buffed out the whole piece

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I was happy with the results, but one small regret was that it looked too much like an original wood finish –

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Love how the back is detailed and the sides rounded out…

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Last week I pulled the piece to try something new.  I had previously finished this desk last year using Vermont Slate and black stain

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and I knew that was the direction I wanted to go.    Now here’s where it gets BAD!

BEEP BEEP!  

THIS IS AN EMERGENCY BREAK! 

DO NOT DO THE FOLLOWING!

I painted right over the old finish, KNOWING it was waxed, KNOWING it need to be be cleaned with a remover first,  knowing all that but not paying any attention to it.       I decided on American Paint color Lincoln’s Hat, and sealed it with APC’s  dark wax –

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I must think I’m invincible right?  That somehow, my painting will stick to a previously SOLVENT waxed finish.  Right?

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W R O N G.

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Don’t cut corners.  If you wax up a piece,  and plan on re-painting it, give it a cleaning first  – mineral spirits work or full strength white vinegar (I’d use that for the natural waxes like APC and CeCe but not sure its strong enough for solvent based waxes).  I’d even give it a light scuffing.    If you don’t chances are you’ll end up like me, with a new paint finish thats soft and  will scratch off any and everywhere.     I literally had to sand the WHOLE piece down –  stupid stupid stupid!

The blacker Lincoln’s Hat was pretty but I wanted more dimension, so this THIRD time I grabbed CeCe’s Vermont Slate and Mississippi Mud….

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Mostly this was a one coat finish –  I used both colors, blended together to make I’m not sure what but I liked how it was turning out…   relying on water to keep me going, and areas that were too thin got a second going over, right away.

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The plasters on top didn’t work to my liking so I used the Slate and the Mud on top, then layed a plastic bag into to and smooshed, so it would give it a little bit of leathery texture.  The desk top edges were mostly Slate, to give it more definition

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When that was all done I  sanded a little, then sealed it up with a custom mix – clear wax, apc dark wax, and some black pigment –

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DSC_7094The drawers were painted and  glazed, a little pop of slate through a stencil

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These little spots were just perfect for a smoky black diamond swarovski

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as were the front’s of each knob…  you know this girl’s gotta have her bling!

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Hopefully  Mr. or Mrs. Right finds their match with this pretty piece

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Happy Painting!

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7 responses to “How Often Do You Repaint A Piece Of Furniture?

  1. LOL!!! Enjoying reading this post! So glad that you did all this to end up with the final masterpiece, it´s stunning!!! Can so relate to this…even though I KNOW something but still..beeing in “a flow” and just paint something “in my way” and doesn´t think that maybe I should have done this or that before start painting…! Have a wonderful day!//Annette Nilsson

  2. Fabulous as always, Patty!

    I think the brown version didn’t sell because you can buy brown furniture anywhere and most of us already have it on our homes. Granted the brown pieces you can buy anywhere or that we already have aren’t as gorgeous as the brown you did but there you have it . . .

    You need to have your own show: Painting With Patty 🙂

  3. Jennifer Serrano

    MUCH better with the gray tones. LOVE LOVE LOVE!!!!

  4. You are an awesome inspiration to the rest of us!!!!Can you use poly or polycrylic over CeCe’s and APC paint? Thanks

    Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 13:16:48 +0000 To: debarber04@hotmail.com

    • Hi Vicki, sorry a few days late here – had a crazy week in the store, and now Im focusing back on blog and posting and e’s…. thanks for your kind words! you know, i think i read someone on the APC papers that you can use polycrylic over the paints – i dont think CeCe’s mentions anything specifically about ‘kinds’ – they just prefer their own 🙂 They do offer the Endurance that has very low voc’s and it actually has a little bit of poly in it – that works nice over the raw paints, but i am not a fan of full strength poly over it when the paint is raw – now, i’ve only tried the wipe on poly’s (by minwax) – we carry those and i use them alot on the Caromal paints – but i find over the unsealed chalk/clay paints they just disappear – like the get absorbed too fast and after one pass its not even. I always apply one coat of either CeCe’s or APC’s waterbased topcoat, so it soaks in even and seals up that raw paint, THEN when it dries i’ll apply my wipe on, and that works very well. i only do this for high traffic areas – like the tile entry floor at our store, or a table top….. hope this helps and doesnt confuse!

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