An Oak Thomasville Dining Set, Gets A Painted And Copper Top Finish

( post includes  a short video demo of the paint finish – read on 🙂 )

This was our  dining room set that we bought when we moved into our second house in the late 90’s,  the hutch

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an oval table, 2 leaves, and 6 chairs.

When we temporarily moved before our present house was built, we needed a table and chairs.    I knew I’d never use this dining room in a dining room again – for one, I’m not a dining room person, and two  I hated the oak finish.  So I decided to paint the table and chairs with Caromal’s textured basecoat peppercorn – make it Pottery Barnish…   but I only got as far as the chairs, so this is how we used it

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When we moved to our new home this summer this set when to the store.   The table and chairs sat in back, and the hutch sat out front……

DSC_6423

I wanted the whole set to flow,  so I based out the table with one coat of Caromal Textured Basecoat Peppercorn, including the top.   Then I got out my trowel and bladed on a coat of textured base black, an acrylic plaster.   Any acrylic plaster would work  (acrylic plasters are usually the ‘venetian plasters’ that aren’t lime based).

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When the top was dry I damp sponged on, and bladed on, several colors of acrylic metallic waxes – a copper, a gold and an iridescent green.  Then I troweled over it with a black tinted satin wax .   It’s a real artsy medium to play around with,  we dabbled into this a little in one of our level 2 workshops late last year, and I think everyone would agree, you’d want to get some sampling under your belt before attempting it on a larger space.  I have yet to be able to ‘exact duplicate’ a former finish,  they all turn out different…

This was one of the 2 leaves .  The sides already second layered –  a coat of American Paint Company’s Limoge (thinned with water)  over the black peppercorn

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American Paint Company, color Limoge, Chalk and Clay Paint

Then the table got its second coat, using APC Limoge

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This was a work in progress,  meaning I wasn’t 100% WHAT I wanted to end up with, so I only did part of the table, enough to do a ‘test’.   I lightly sanded the Limoge to pop the black

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Love  –

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then I brushed it with a coat of American Paint Company’s Topcoat Finish.  This seals up the paint nicely

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Then I got out American Paint Company’s new glazes – both the pretinted black and brown – and mixed my blackish brown shade – by using 2/3 black 1/3 brown and 50% water

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and brushed it over the dried Topcoat Finish, like an easy wash

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On

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and then wiped back with a clean dry terry rag

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I could have left it just like this,  LOVED the color…   but, I wanted it warmer. After all, the top was coppery…

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So I took some left over American Paint Company Light Wax (discontinued) and mixed it 1/2 and 1/2 with their Dark Wax  (you can also use Dark Wax mixed with 50% Clear Wax)

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It’s Peanut Butter Jelly Time Peanut Butter Jelly Time!   its_peanut_butter_jelly_time_3d_by_raccoonanimator-d5okjht

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A little lighter than the dark

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I scrubbed it on, over the dried glazed finish

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and then softly wiped it back

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and the bottom part was done.  And I liked it.

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The top is cool – it brought back memories of all the walls I used to trowel.  the key to a nice, organic flow, on larger spaces  is move fast, work small areas, into each other, layer ALOT, and have enough experience under your belt to know how to make the uh-oh’s look just like the rest…

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Table done,  time to move it out to the showroom

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Now the chairs…   I knew I wasn’t going to like the chair fabric – the seat pads are in great shape, but the fabric itself always showed water marks….   too stodgy

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Old seat cushion

I painted the seat cushions American Paint Lincoln’s Hat,  then sealed the paint using APC Topcoat Finish,  then applied one more layer of APC Topcoat, only this one had APC Copper Mica mixed in it –  it gave the fabric a little bit of shimmer

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I added a metallic coppery backed oval, and a Limoge number (1-6) to each seat before I sealed them.   I know,  some are wiggling in their seats “Why would you ruin those seats by painting?”

This is how I looked at it –  I myself, would not buy the set and LOVE the existing fabric –  we’ve painted numerous fabric pieces in the store and every single one has  sold.  Yes, it feels weird to touch, but it feels normal to sit and it actually holds up nicely.   And how often are dining room chairs used, anyhow?  If someone doesn’t like the cushions, then they can recover – just like they would have recovered the original fabric, because it was stodgy and water marked looking.  🙂    (like my logic?)

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The chairs, originally painted Peppercorn, got a coat of APC Limoge,

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Before the chairs were even glazed and waxed I knew I wasn’t going to like light…  I didn’t want the WHOLE set to be the same color…

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I figured we could use Lincoln’s Hat  so that the chairs would be a softer black .   Nobody liked me that day for wanting to paint the chairs, again….

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In the mean time,  the hutch got a coat of Caromal Peppercorn

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and then a wash of American Paint’s Limoge.   As that dried  I stared at the hutch and wondered how I could tie it into the whole set – copper table top and all….

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I thought about created a copper metal all over look on the back mirrors, and tried several stencils (wiping it all back off), not liking either.    Then I pulled out this one, Organica, from Wallover (which ended up getting totally destroyed on this project),  and knew it was what I wanted.

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I thought twice about doing this, it would mean 2 layers, everywhere, climbing over those trim pieces (ugh), but I knew it would be beautiful in the end…    In a nutshell,  I used a stencil brush and stippled on Caromal Colours Reclaim black (licorice) – almost a dry brush so it would keep the bleed down.  There was no way I was using stencil adhesive on this project – it’s worse than bleed to clean off glass and mirror…   I taped and held the design, and stippled the Reclaim.

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The Reclaim is a perfect base for this – it not only bonds to anything but also is self sealing, so once it cures it stays put.  There was NO way I was stenciling this whole thing black,  THEN going back and re-doing all the metallic over it,  so I kept the stencil in place, took a blow dryer and lightly hit the area (10 or so seconds) to flash dry the paint – I used another stencil brush and stippled a little copper, a little copper blend and some iridescent green wax all over the design.   The acrylic waxes dry so quickly it  was easy to pound one over the other.

Most of it was tolerable, except when the design jumped the raised wood strips – then it didn’t lay flat, and trying to get a clean edge was impossible.   That meant ALOT of razor blade clean up…  but it was worth it.

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Once the inside was stenciled and the outside was painted Limoge, I light sanded it to again reveal the black Peppercorn base –

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Then sealed it with APC Topcoat Finish –

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Really  ,  can’t find an easier all natural, water based,, non yellowing,  HARD drying topcoat/sealer than this stuff.  At full strength it’s like water, making the application effortless…

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You can see where I’ve swiped on the Topcoat – it soaks right in to those absorbent paints –

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When that dries, on goes the glaze wash…

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When that dried,  on went  wax-  when  you’re applying wax over an already sealed finish, it doesn’t take nearly as much wax – it almost just glides on , all over, more on the surface , and then the excess is wiped off.   You don’t HAVE to wax over Topcoat – I just did to get the warmer tone…

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Hutch ready to move to floor –  where I’ll finally be able to put all the glass shelves back in it

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I love jazzing up knobs, but was limited on this piece because the door span was so narrow

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So I used what I had – hit them with Reclaim Licorice, then some of the wax and adhered a crystal to the front

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I had more room with the drawer pulls,  and tried to swap out a number of dressier knobs,  but didn’t like any of them.  I ended up using  these backings with the  same knob  – it did just enough for me

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DSC_8646

I’m really glad I stuck with the stenciling,  it popped this piece –

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Did I mention, it’s got this cool hinge light mechanism – touch the hinge and the lights go on,  on more, then on bright –   Fancy!

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Kept the inside black – used APC Lincoln’s Hat, sealed with APC Topcoat Finish

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Lastly,  back to those chairs….

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Gave them a light sanding, then sealed with APC Topcoat Finish mixed with Copper Mica, and then a swipe of APC Topcoat finish mixed with Black Mica –  (APC offers the Mica’s in copper, gold, silver, pewter, and black)

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Three chairs down, three to go…

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The two leaves tucked in the back corner, waiting for a new home!

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I’m not a huge fan of refinishing whole sets – they take so long…. so I’m really thankful this project is almost complete!

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Last minute , I decided to put  a quick, frill less video together, showing how easy this paint finish is

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You can find that six minute video by clicking on the link below

HOW MUCH DID WE USE?

  • 1 quart Caromal Colours textured basecoat Peppercorn
  • 1/2 pint American Paint Company Limoge  (on the table and hutch)
  • 1/2 qt APC Lincoln’s Hat (inside hutch, chairs and chair pads)
  • 1 16 ounce bottle APC Topcoat Finish
  • couple tablespoons APC Black Glaze
  • couple tablespoons APC Brown Glaze
  • 4 oz mixed APC dark with light wax
  • couple teaspoons Copper Mica
  • teaspoon Black Mica

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15 responses to “An Oak Thomasville Dining Set, Gets A Painted And Copper Top Finish

  1. Patty,
    That dining room set is gorgeous!!! There are people that would say “Never paint a Thomasville dining room set!” And I say you can paint anything if you are an artist like Patty! I wish I needed one…I would purchase it in a heartbeat. I love that it’s not all matchy, matchy…you are my hero!

    • Thank you Carol! I know, I run into those people on occasion 🙂 – typically I don’t paint over perfectly good furniture, but from a realistic standpoint, that hutch sat out in my front store for months, and the only interest it drew was from those asking how I was going to paint it… the funny is, I wish I had room for at least the hutch now!

  2. Patty…quick question. Would the application you used on your dining room cabinet be appropriate for kitchen cabinets? By appropriate I mean would it stand up to daily kitchen use? And is it possible for me to puchase a sample piece of molding like you displayed in the how to video, so I can see how it would work in my kitchen? I love it!

    • absolutely that would hold up in a kitchen Carol – you’d have to topcoat more than the one time I did, and I (personally) would opt out of the wax part and if you want that warmer color just use more brown in the glaze wash – we do the smaller wood samples (you can order them off our shopping site – if you want a bigger run just email me and i can work something up for you – maybe do 2 different color tones, one on each side, have done that before too….

      • Hi Patty, received my sample…awesome! Now, in your response to me you had stated that you probably would opt out of the wax. Is the wax not necessary for kitchen cabinets? I would have thought the wax would add another layer if protection plus I love the warm hue it added to your dining room cabinet. I am definitely going to start by finishing a small bathroom vanity just to get my technique down before I tackle the huge undertaking of my kitchen. Talk to you soon.

        Carol Marshall

        • the wax does add layer of protection, but think along lines of furniture finsihes, not cabinets – we cook, splash, have wet hands, spill stuff, spatter stuff – clean way more often – this kind of wear needs/requires the hardest finish you can offer it – wax isnt that. topcoat topcoat – way better bonus, and you’ll be a happy camper!

  3. You should have your own TV show!!!!!!!

  4. yes yes yes! want a tv show – anyone got any pull? 🙂

  5. James Malenfant

    I have this dining room set, and would never paint it. This was interesting what the artist did with it. The table is not American Revival, but the chairs are. The arm chair went new for over $500, and the side chairs were over $300. The original table is square and has a lattice inlay on the top. I think it is one of the nicest, and heaviest, sets Thomasville ever made. Mine is finished in Honey Oak. I really like the stenciled windows.

    • Interesting the table was part of a different line – they showed it all together, so might be there were several lines where the finish coordinated well? Could be I desired an oval size table, due to size constraints at the time of purchase, either way it was all Thomasville. I’m pretty sure the finish on this set was honey oak as well.

  6. Pingback: Ten Projects, Day Five – Revised Cowhide Chairs – MOOOOO! | Fabulously Finished

  7. I was cringing seeing them paint the furniture. We have the American Revival dining room set as well. It is such a beautiful set and the origianal sunlit oak finish is such a refreshing look. It’s sad to see it get covered up.

    • typically the furniture I acquire and paint is used and tired looking – this set, however was my own personal set, that we had to get rid of because we sold our house and had to downsize. Had I garage sale’d it, or craigslist’d it, I’d have gotten not much at all – in our area furniture holds no real value. Had I kept it as is, and tried to sell it in my store, it would still be sitting there, for there is little to no market for honey oak furniture. The reason for painting was to make the pieces more desirable, thus drawing a buyer. The hutch sold immediately, it was gorgeous, and sold in the high 3’s. The chairs sold next, I revised them to a rustic barnworn finish (you’d have hated) but they were very different, perfect for a homeowners new house – and sold pretty much for the original purchase price. The table sold last, to a local physician’s group for their conference room – still a lovely set, all and all, just a ‘different’ finish than the original. It’s great that your set still works with your style/decor – thats probably what we all wish for – but doesn’t always work that way – I say better to SEE that furniture being used, ,than sitting in a basement or garage with junk piled on it, even if that means changing up the color/finish.

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