I got two back to back emails from one of my local customers – Pat. I was excited opening the first one, because it started off with:
I thought you would enjoy this. We (my daughter and I) had a great time in class!!
I guess I should back up first, and share the photos from that workshop, almost a month ago, where Pat began her project…
The before pieces of furniture, waiting to be transformed at one of our Paint A Piece Workshops-
(these are Pat’s side panels and a few drawers that she brought in to finish, part of a larger jewelry armoire)
(and her daughters piece)
And the fun begins…
This table is getting our cool silver metallic finish –
Slow and steady, she’s got the hang of it!
Showing how to apply an allover stencil to the top
Notice that lone Swarovski in the middle? 🙂
This rocker used APC Treasure Box over Caromal Colours textured chocolate base, sealed wtih APC Topcoat tinted with a little APC brown glaze.
The letter C was embedded in the middle using the TB Chocolate.
This was APC Lincoln’s Hat over APC Smoke Signal, sealed with APC Topcoat Finish. She also embedded some raised stencil patterns using Caromal Colours textured basecoat pumpkin.
Applying the topcoat, black APC Lincoln’s Hat…
Sanding back to refine – and a tiny bit of wet wiping…
mom and daughter – they were great company!
Is this not authentically looking OLD, with years of layered paint etc? Love this, and the stencil color, placements works so well!
This chair (one of many so she wanted the EASIeST application) got Reclaim Licorice, and it turned out awsome!
Caromal textured basecoat Peppercorn over Putty, with Toner
Pat, working on her pieces – this is applying the first coat APC Crushed Tea
APC Navajo White went on over the Crushed Tea, and here Pat is applying an allover stencil to the side panels, using the same APC Crushed Tea (and a little Caromal Colours Toner)
We all ooooh’d and aaaaaaah’d when she was done…
Aren’t these gorgeous?
Caromal Colours Peppercorn over Putty, and some Paprika dragged here and there. Also embedded a raised stencil on the front panels with the Paprika – sanded all back when dry and aged it with Caromal’s Toner
lolol – almost done sanding!
and check this baby out!
WOOOT! WOOOOT! WHOOOOOOT!
This was a cool one, Caromal textured basecoat Candy Apple as the base, AND a raised stencil using the same Candy Apple. Then chipping creme, then Caromal’s textured basecoat Parchment….
… then sand back to reveal that Candy Apple. Lastly, brushed on Caromal’s Toner to antique (and wiped back) – Ragen is a PRO here!
HOW COOL ARE THESE!!!!!!
Ragen shared her ‘after’ piece too – once you get the hang of it you can whip the rest of the piece out in no time!
This is getting a first layer of Caromal textured basecoat Chocolate, then chipping creme, then Paprika…
… sanded back to reveal the undercolor, then Caromal’s Toner to age it up…
From that workshop, Pat went home and finished the rest of her jewelry armoire, and then put it all back together for a photo debut
Isn’t this gorgeous??? I want it!
The After – American Paint Company Navajo White over Crushed Tea, stenciled in Crushed Tea, sealed with APC Topcoat Finish.
I just love that allover lace stencil that she chose for the 2 side panels. Great job Pat!
But, not to be distracted from where this post was going, I had ANOTHER email from Pat, sent the same time she shared the pictures above. The title of the email was
So I opened that one and read,
Okay I started with Cannonball (American Paint Company) then Limoge (American Paint Company) and then lightly sanded. Decided to put Licorice Glaze on it. (see the attached picture) that’s what it ended up looking like. WHAT did I do wrong? Any help would be appreciated :).
I answered like this:
…So you you applied chalk/clay base over chalk/clay base, light sanded and then glazed. If I only go by what you typed, without looking at any pictures you sent, I can guess what went wrong –
Did it go real DARK? And you couldn’t wipe it off even? I don’t like to glaze over raw chalk/clay – the chalk/clay paints are super absorbent when they dry – like an open sponge.
The first thing I want it to ‘drink up’ is a sealer – either topcoat finish or wax. If you go the wax route, then you cant glaze over it – so when I glaze chalk/clay paint I FIRST give it a coat of APC Topcoat Finish- and let it dry good. THEN I brush on the glaze… if you seal FIRST, you will find it is way easier to manipulate.
Whats worse, the APC Limoge is a light color – sometimes, and I say that very apprehensively because its trial and error each time – sometimes, you can get away with glazing over the unsealed chalk/clay paint BUT I don’t when its a lighter shade. If you took the Fireworks Red, light sanded it, and brushed Licorice Glaze right over it , it would soak in and be harder to control as well, but it’s darker, and you’d probably think ‘oh, not exactly what I was planning for, but that looks kinda cool’ – but over the lighter UNSEALED colors it can be overpowering. Hope this helps!
Then, I checked out the pictures she sent –
Table with APC Limoge over APC Cannonball
Limoge, unnsealed, with Licorice Glaze over Top
See how the glaze really bit in and changed up the soft creamy Limoge? It looks cool if you were going for rustic, reclaimed wood – but if you want your paint color/s to remain, and just be highlighted from the glaze, then you’ll want to SEAL up that paint surface first.
Limoge, unsealed, with Licorice Glaze over top.
One coat of American Paint’s Topcoat Finish will suffice – let it dry good, THEN apply your glaze. If you seal up your surface first,the glaze will glide right on, and you can soften it back easily with a dry cloth.
I get asked, often – Do you need to seal OVER the dried glaze? This is my Modus operandi –
If my surface is well sealed, and I glaze over it, once the glaze dries and cures, it becomes a pretty hard finish. So I do not topcoat OVER a dried glaze finish to seal it. That one coat of APC Topcoat is sufficient for sealed your paint finish on an accent piece. The glazed effect over the topcoat will dry and hold up, once cured (fully dry).
However, if I was glazing over CABINETS – say for my bathroom or kitchen, or if I was glazing over an everyday table top, then my paint surface is going to require more than 1 coat of Topcoat. When this is the case, I sandwich my glaze in the middle. I apply my chalk/clay paint until I get the coverage I want, light sand to refine it to my liking, apply ONE coat of American Paint Topcoat Finish, let dry then apply my glaze and wipe it back. When dry, I apply ANOTHER coat of Topcoat Finish, and if I want to be really cautious, I’d wait a day or two and then apply one more coat. Cupboards, everyday table surfaces, will take more of a beating – they’ll be handled more, and wiped clean more. I’d protect not only my paint finish but also my glazed finish.
APC Saddle+Tumbleweed, sealed with Topcoat Finish and glazed with Molasses glaze.
Now, back to Pat’s Limoge unsealed table that went pretty dark from the black glaze. How to fix? Let it dry really good, then paint back over it with another coat of Limoge. Let that dry, sand back to refine the finish, then SEAL it with a coat of APC Topcoat Finish. THEN when dry, continue on with the Licorice Glaze.
The beauty of these paints – is that pretty much ANYTHING is fixable 🙂
DON’T FORGET: GLAZES PARTNER UP WITH NON-WAX SURFACES. Don’t glaze over wax. When its good and dry you CAN wax OVER the dried glaze, if you like that wax feel/look etc.
Hope this makes sense! If you find it confusing, let me know, and I’ll come back in and try to reword it better.
See that colored photo board above the F F’s, below?
It’s a collage of some of the photos of pieces our customers created in our Paint A Piece Workshops. Our be-gone-winter-hello-spring schedule of workshops has been updated – We’ve got a great line up for you – you can find our workshop details here Workshops.
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