I got two back to back emails from one of my local customers – Pat. I was excited opening the first one, because it started off with:
I thought you would enjoy this. We (my daughter and I) had a great time in class!!
I guess I should back up first, and share the photos from that workshop, almost a month ago, where Pat began her project…
The before pieces of furniture, waiting to be transformed at one of our Paint A Piece Workshops-
(these are Pat’s side panels and a few drawers that she brought in to finish, part of a larger jewelry armoire)
(and her daughters piece)
And the fun begins…
Aren’t these gorgeous?
Ragen shared her ‘after’ piece too – once you get the hang of it you can whip the rest of the piece out in no time!
From that workshop, Pat went home and finished the rest of her jewelry armoire, and then put it all back together for a photo debut
Isn’t this gorgeous??? I want it!
I just love that allover lace stencil that she chose for the 2 side panels. Great job Pat!
But, not to be distracted from where this post was going, I had ANOTHER email from Pat, sent the same time she shared the pictures above. The title of the email was
So I opened that one and read,
Okay I started with Cannonball (American Paint Company) then Limoge (American Paint Company) and then lightly sanded. Decided to put Licorice Glaze on it. (see the attached picture) that’s what it ended up looking like. WHAT did I do wrong? Any help would be appreciated :).
I answered like this:
…So you you applied chalk/clay base over chalk/clay base, light sanded and then glazed. If I only go by what you typed, without looking at any pictures you sent, I can guess what went wrong –
Did it go real DARK? And you couldn’t wipe it off even? I don’t like to glaze over raw chalk/clay – the chalk/clay paints are super absorbent when they dry – like an open sponge.
The first thing I want it to ‘drink up’ is a sealer – either topcoat finish or wax. If you go the wax route, then you cant glaze over it – so when I glaze chalk/clay paint I FIRST give it a coat of APC Topcoat Finish- and let it dry good. THEN I brush on the glaze… if you seal FIRST, you will find it is way easier to manipulate.
Whats worse, the APC Limoge is a light color – sometimes, and I say that very apprehensively because its trial and error each time – sometimes, you can get away with glazing over the unsealed chalk/clay paint BUT I don’t when its a lighter shade. If you took the Fireworks Red, light sanded it, and brushed Licorice Glaze right over it , it would soak in and be harder to control as well, but it’s darker, and you’d probably think ‘oh, not exactly what I was planning for, but that looks kinda cool’ – but over the lighter UNSEALED colors it can be overpowering. Hope this helps!
Then, I checked out the pictures she sent –
See how the glaze really bit in and changed up the soft creamy Limoge? It looks cool if you were going for rustic, reclaimed wood – but if you want your paint color/s to remain, and just be highlighted from the glaze, then you’ll want to SEAL up that paint surface first.
One coat of American Paint’s Topcoat Finish will suffice – let it dry good, THEN apply your glaze. If you seal up your surface first,the glaze will glide right on, and you can soften it back easily with a dry cloth.
I get asked, often – Do you need to seal OVER the dried glaze? This is my Modus operandi –
If my surface is well sealed, and I glaze over it, once the glaze dries and cures, it becomes a pretty hard finish. So I do not topcoat OVER a dried glaze finish to seal it. That one coat of APC Topcoat is sufficient for sealed your paint finish on an accent piece. The glazed effect over the topcoat will dry and hold up, once cured (fully dry).
However, if I was glazing over CABINETS – say for my bathroom or kitchen, or if I was glazing over an everyday table top, then my paint surface is going to require more than 1 coat of Topcoat. When this is the case, I sandwich my glaze in the middle. I apply my chalk/clay paint until I get the coverage I want, light sand to refine it to my liking, apply ONE coat of American Paint Topcoat Finish, let dry then apply my glaze and wipe it back. When dry, I apply ANOTHER coat of Topcoat Finish, and if I want to be really cautious, I’d wait a day or two and then apply one more coat. Cupboards, everyday table surfaces, will take more of a beating – they’ll be handled more, and wiped clean more. I’d protect not only my paint finish but also my glazed finish.
Now, back to Pat’s Limoge unsealed table that went pretty dark from the black glaze. How to fix? Let it dry really good, then paint back over it with another coat of Limoge. Let that dry, sand back to refine the finish, then SEAL it with a coat of APC Topcoat Finish. THEN when dry, continue on with the Licorice Glaze.
The beauty of these paints – is that pretty much ANYTHING is fixable 🙂
DON’T FORGET: GLAZES PARTNER UP WITH NON-WAX SURFACES. Don’t glaze over wax. When its good and dry you CAN wax OVER the dried glaze, if you like that wax feel/look etc.
Hope this makes sense! If you find it confusing, let me know, and I’ll come back in and try to reword it better.
See that colored photo board above the F F’s, below?
It’s a collage of some of the photos of pieces our customers created in our Paint A Piece Workshops. Our be-gone-winter-hello-spring schedule of workshops has been updated – We’ve got a great line up for you – you can find our workshop details here Workshops.
If you’re looking to paint with guidance, learn new products and techniques, or just looking for a great night out with friends or hubbies, check us out – I promise, you will not be disappointed!
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