Contact Me

 

 

I know blogs can be overwhelming,   so many places to look, so much to see –  information overload!    It’s okey –  BREATHE!      Use the SEARCH field to help find topics that interest you or head to the CATEGORIES (found in right hand column) and start there.  

Folks like me that retail Caromal Colours or American Paint Company  paints are independent retailers.  This means we are afforded the opportunity to stock their products, learn how to use them, go crazy creating with them,  share that info, retail their paints, and support our customers.    The only way we generate revenue is if we sell products, classes, painted pieces, stuff like that.

Now the elephant on the page  –    if you are full of questions,  or want advise, help, etc  with how to use our paints – BUT you do not purchase from us,     then you really need to pose your questions to the retailer you purchased your paints from.  

That’s fair.

While I would love to answer every person’s question, or ease every user’s anxiety,  it is an impossible feat.   I tried , and I failed,  and I nearly burned out,  while my husband and children became strangers to me. 

 Not to mention, it doesn’t pay the bills.

We do our best to answer all of our current  CUSTOMER’s  emails – depending on our schedule and email load it may take a week or more to answer.  If your question is immediate, or you need help with your order, and we have not emailed you back, please give us a call at the store.

 If you are not one of our customers  but are interested in asking for our design / product advise –  we can schedule that for you –  contact us via email and we can schedule a time that works for you.   Our consult time is charged at a rate of $25 billed in 15 minute increments.

Fabulous Finishes 51350 Van Dyke Rd, Shelby Twp 48316

cropped-blog-2.jpg

240 responses to “Contact Me

  1. Hi Patty! My husband and I just bought a house and we are wanting to transform our cabinets. I LOVE what you’ve done with all of your example pieces! I need your help and opinion. The unfortunate thing about our cabinets is that they are white and particle board (but fortunately not a laminate facade). I was told by a family friend that they are still paintable. What do you suggest we use on it? I would love to have cream cabinets with a vintage look. I plan on the wall behind being like a teal-gray color. If you have any advice, I’d be so grateful! Thank you!

    • Patty,

      I cannot find where to buy the Caromal Colours needed for refinishing cabinets. Their online store has nothing that I see on your site. Please help.

      Thanks,
      Amy

      • Amy,

        I used the reclaim off white to paint per the formica covered cabinets and they came out beautifully!

        I did take off the laminate through as the doors were the cheap plastic and there was pristine MDF board underneath. I will say that I painted all of the cabinets with the laminate on and they looked wonderful but one would not take the color in one spot so I was trying to sand it and rough it up but went through the plastic, hence the need to remove all of the plastic off the doors and start over.

        I used two coats of the off white with the antiquing glaze. I would love to send a picture but don’t know how to attach it to this post.

        I can be reached at fords08@att.net if you would like a pic. I just ordered more reclaim paint to paint my son’s furniture and have already used it on outdoor rockers and many other things. It is fantastic and I order from Patty when I get my paint.

        Cindy Ford

  2. Hi Brenna,

    The textured basecoats will bond to laminate, as well as particle board – you should have no problem painting over your existing cabinets. Do they have any detail/carvings or are they flat surface? The Antique Parchment Basecoat and Toner would allow you to update the finish to the cream vintage color you desire. If the cabinet panels are flat you will have less detail. check this post I did on using the basecoats on flat laminates – https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/09/04/caromal-colours-laminate-cabinet-refinish-video/

    If you have any other questions, let me know~ Patty

  3. Patty,

    My cabinets actually have fantastic grooves, so I will have great detail! I will be purchasing some basecoats and toner soon! Thanks for your help Patty!

    Brenna

  4. lol – you will be GROOVIN Brenna! Have fun – let me know how it goes, patty

  5. Yes I will! Thanks! 😀

  6. Hi,
    Has anyone ever told you that from your picture you look like you could be Ellen Degeneras’s sister! (not sure if I spelled her last name right or not)
    Anyways, I am a decorative painter that does mostly furniture and I am intrigued by your Caromal product……Did you make this product yourself? The reason I am asking is IDAL is hosting the National Convention in July here in Portland, OR and was wondering if you have a vendor booth at the Product Show? You could demo and sell your products there……
    Our group is the local IDAL chapter, Cascade Artisans Guild and I’m trying to drum up some business so we have the best convention ever!

    • Too funny, no noone has ever said that.. I love her show but don’t like her as an AI judge…..

      No, I am not the creator of the Caromal Colours line – the honor goes to Carol Kemery.

      I would guess this might still be a lean year for IDAL participation -I know I, for one, is trying to stash away everything I am earning – for ‘just in case’… I’ve attended in the past, but this year it’s not in the plans, with it being so far across the US…. though I’d love to go, if I had the opportunity….

  7. Hi Patty, I have white laminate kitchen cabinets. I recently added stainless steel appliances with black accents. Until I can afford to replace them….I want to give them a black distressed look. What would I use to create that look? Thanks!

    • Hi Jodi,

      Here is a post I just did on Black cabinets – https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/20/black-kitchen-cabinets/ . I see several photos in there that are the black/stainless look. At the end of that post is a link that will take you to a How-to play-by-play post showing how to use the basecoats over an oak door. Going over laminate is no different.

      You would want to use color Peppercorn – thats the black, with Toner. If you want to distress them back, you will lightly sand back to the white underneath – back on that post, toward the end I show 2 closeups of peppercorn painted doors- the first one is over stained wood, so the distressing revealed is more of a wood tone, and the second one is a white laminate door and you can see the distressed area is lighter – you will reveal your white and then when it gets TONED it will lightly antique that white – but overall the distressed areas will be like an off-white, not a reddish wood tone. Does that make sense?

      Over on the right hand column I have several categories of Caromal Colour posts – thats a great place to start – alot of really helpful info on How-To’s, What If’s, Before/After photos etc….

      Let me know how it goes! Patty

  8. Hi Patty
    Love looking through your blog– your tips and step by step demos are giving me confidence to attempt a project I have been putting off. In the living room one wall is paneled and has a fireplace in center. I would love to paint it but couldn’t decide on color. The paneling is slick would I need to sand it before I paint the base coat?
    thanks

    • Hi Sandy,

      No, you don’t need to sand surface before you paint – they just need to be clean – if the surface is pretty slick you will definitely need two coats. How big is this wall? Do you have a picture of it? Whats the fireplace look like?

  9. Hi there!

    Thanks for all the great information on your website. You are very talented!

    I need some color advice…getting ready to paint a large chest of drawers and dresser with mirror. I want to go very light and planned on the parchment with the coffee glaze but I’m second guessing myself and wonder if I should go with wisteria and what would the tea glaze look like.

    Because monitors vary, I can’t decide if I should go parchment or wisteria with the coffee or tea glaze. Again, I want the pieces to look light and fresh but not stark and cold. The hardware will likely be matte black or oil rubbed bronze.

    Any guidance? I’ve carefully reviewed about every photo on your and the Caromal Colors website but just can’t make up my mind! They are so similar but whites can be tricky!

    THANK YOU!

  10. Shelley Mott Halpain

    Hi Patty,

    I need to let you know of a correction on your blog. You have a beautiful bathroom with my name on it. I wish I could say I did it, but I didnt. It was done by Shauna Gallagher, the designer was Cathy Bowen.

    Cheers,
    Shelley

  11. Kirsten Dehmlow

    Hi,
    I ordered the parchment basecoat and toner after finding your blog. I have begun to paint my cabinets! It is going to brighten my kitchen up so much!
    I know I read on your blog what you recommend for a final coat – poly?, but I can not find it. Do you mind sharing that info again?
    Thank you, Kirsten Dehmlow

  12. Sara Townsend

    Everything that I’ve read about your paints doesn’t mention about sanding before painting. I’m wanting to paint my kitchen island (8ft) in the peppercorn. I believe the finish is lacquer. So do I need to sand before I would start painting? Your paint is fabulous.

    • Hi Sara,

      No you do not need to sand before painting. That is one of the benefits of using the textured basecoats – no priming or sanding is required for surface prep. The only time you will pull out sandpaper is after the final layer of basecoat is dry. I like to sand lightly before toning – or sand heavier to give it a distressed look. Here is a good post related to the final ‘sand’ https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/14/sanding-your-caromal-colours-finish/

      Take pictures, if you do decide to Caromal your island – and send me the befores and afters – I’ll share them with readers!

  13. Came across your blog by looking for bedroom inspiration and am so happy I did. Lovely blog. I am a decorative painter from South Africa and its so inspiring to see what others are doing.

  14. Hi Patty
    I love your blog and you inspired me to refinished the cabinets of three of my bathrooms.
    They all came out fabulous! They were all the same blonde cabinetry and I redid each one differently and everyone thinks I replaced the cabinets! My next project is painting my mom’s bedroom in her condo. The wallpaper was put in back in the 60/70’s. It is a gold stripe on gold foil stripe(tone on tone but shiny). If we remove the wallpaper a lot of the drywall will come with it. This happened to me in her bathroom and I don’t want to go thru that again. Can I use the sealer and glaze on top of the wallpaper? The color she wants is a very light lavender/purple. If I have been reading your blog correctly I would apply the sealer over the wallpaper, then paint and glaze over that? Any reccommendations would be appreciated.

  15. BTW I live in MI too…..Bloomfield Twp.

    • Hi MaryBeth-

      Is that paper down good? No lifting edges or anything? People do paint over wallpaper – but there are no guarantees… I’d suggest doing a test area first – not sure about the FOIL part of it – how that will want to react. When you research ‘How to paint over wallpaper’ you will see a good number of prep steps – even using oil based primers etc… I will admit, I went troweled a metallic plaster right over the wallpaper in my dining room when I moved it- it was down good (not foil or vinyl) – I didn’t even seal – and have had no issues – been seven years….

      If it was me I’d do a small test area – apply the wall sealer, then your paint color. If that all goes smooth, no lifting, no bleeding, then you’ll be good to go – the glaze won’t change the equation.

      Got any pictures of those bathroom cabinets you finished? I’d love to share them!

  16. Hi Patty,

    I am getting ready to redo my downstairs bathroom, it is only a toilet and sink. I would really like to do the ceiling and walls the same color. My downstairs family room is painted with a “cranberry jam” and “medieval gold”, just solid colors. I really like this picture (which is how I found your website)

    But my problem is that I have NO skill for faux painting. How do you get that look? do you have to like sponge or can you just buy the paint and paint the walls?

    • Hi Jennifer,

      That bathroom finish was a three layer metallic plaster applied using a trowel. You don’t want to ‘sponge’ (AAACCCKKK!!!) – chances are that will just give you a splotchy look, and painting will just give you a new color paint on your walls. However, if you like the color of that bath, you could paint your bath a burnt orange color (satin or eggshell) then roll on the Caromal Colours Wall Glaze in Tea or Coffee color, and simply wipe it off with dry rag – its a glaze made specifically for DIY’ers and it truly is as easy as I made it sound. You could paint both your wall and ceiling, like in this photo you like. The final effect won’t be a plaster, but it could give you a simliar look. You can read this post for more how-to’s with their glaze https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/08/19/caromal-colour-glazing-how-to-instructions/

      Hope this helps! Patty

  17. Lucille Yurgelaitis

    Hi Patty,

    I contacted you last spring because my friend, Earlene, bought a Caromal kit to re-do her kitchen cupboards and they turned out beautifully. I would like to purchase a jar of Peppercorn Black to paint a small table. I don’t need the chipping cream or a second color as I want a nice solid finish. How much is a small jar of Peppercorn black?

    • Hi Lucille, The jars of textured basecoats come in quart size only, and cover approx 30-40 sf depending on how you use it. They run 29.50- you can order online at caromalcolours.com – use PattyH in coupon code area and it will save you a few bucks on shipping. Patty

      (Does Earlene have any photos of her cabinets???? 🙂 )

  18. Patty,

    I posted a question for you but never received a response and my post disappeared from the site, not really sure what’s up with that. Anyway, I had a question about distressing cabinets. I’ve coated the cabinets with peppercorn base and my final coat is a buttermilk yellow. Does the cracking creme act like a sealer and should I apply it to the entire cabinet door or just selectively in spots? How many square feet does a jar of cracking creme cover? I have left some of the wood showing through the base coat and plan on doing so with the finish coat so that when I apply the toner I get an interesting affect, does this sound good? When the toner is applied to the finish coat will it change the color any?

    Thanks,
    Scott

    • Good morning Scott,

      You posted your question on a different page, my ‘Caromal Colours’ page, not this ‘Contact Me’ page – you can find it by following this link https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/caromal-colours/ . I’ll copy/paste to this one as well –

      2010/07/21 at 3:46 PM | In reply to Scott D..

      Hi Scott,

      Okey, so you brushed cabinets with the peppercorn – and now yu want to paint them with yellow milk paint….

      The chipping creme does not act as a sealer to the base coat. Generally I tell people the easiest way to use it is to brush it on your whole surface. Then when dry brush on your next layer of color. Several reasons for this – first, when you brush color 2 over the chipping creme you then can’t SEE where the chipping creme was. If you try to hand brush it into specific areas, you run the risk of not remembering where its at once its covered. The other reason I don’t recommend ‘planting’ chipping creme is because you run the risk of it looking very planned and not organic….. does this make sense? The chipping creme goes a long way, and brushes on easy, so its not a big deal to brush over your whole surface. Then when its dry, and coated with color #2, you can begin to sand to reveal your distressing – and its very natural- you can keep going to distress more, or stop at any point it looks perfect to you. Not sure how it does it, but once you are done distressing, and you apply Toner, and then topcoat, it does not keep on chipping….

      However, if you KNOW that you are only going to want to distress/chip on the edges of a door, then its easy to brush the chipping creme ONLY on the edges of the doors – then when you apply color 2, and sand, you know exactly where you placed it… make sense?

      One thing I need to mention is, I’m not certain what this milk paint is you’re using. CC will not guarantee that their products will work outside their product line – you are introducing a new product and are going to attempt to ‘chip’ it – if it were me I’d try it on a sample before doing it on a big scale, just to make sure it DOES work.

      If you leave some base wood showing through the basecoat, I’d still brush chip creme over it, then apply color 2 over it- then sand it back and it will look more organic than just an open spot that you intentionally left uncovered. Pure wood spots are very cool, mixed into a finish – when the toner hits those spots it will bite in good, and age it up nicely – gives a nice effect – I’d not do it everywhere, else it will look too planned.

      Lastly, you say these are cabinets – bath, kitchen? I personally dont recommend the liberon wax for cabinets – even Liberon doesnt list its wax as a choice topcoat for ‘cabinets’. Liberon wax is better as a furniture finish coat – for durability, I recommend a basic polyurethane – water based or oil based, your pref (though I usually grab oil) – and I like the wipe on versions, because of their ease of use. here is a good post about topcoating – https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/06/23/caromal-colour-can-i-a-vintage-dining-room-table/

      (for this response, I think you owe me photos of before/after when your done 🙂 🙂 ) Have fun – Patty

  19. Hi Patty!

    I just purchased the peppercorn base coat and the toner, using your coupon code for the shipping discount. Thanks for that! 🙂 I am going to distress my kitchen cabinets. My cabinets are a med. colored oak stained. I just had a few questions to make sure I am doing it right. I started on them last night, I cleaned them w/soap and water to get all the finger prints, etc. off of them, made sure they were dry, then I did my first coat. The peppercorn covers very well,except a few spots you can see the oak underneath, and I’m not sure I will need to do 2 coats? Do you normally only have to use 1 coat when using the peppercorn?

    After I get the base coat on, do I sand the entire cabinet, sanding more on the corners, and places where I want the oak stain to show through, or do I just sand in the places I want the oak to show?

    Also, once I get the toner on, what product do you recommend I put on as a type of “sealer”, that will also give it a little shine. I worry a little about getting water on the cuboards, or someone spilling food on them. Is there a good product that will protect the paint and wood when using water to wipe the mess off?

    Ok, hopefully that covers all my questions. If you have any other tips that will help I would love to hear them. Your website is very informative. I am so glad I came across it when google’ing “black kitchen cabinets”. I was originally just going to use semi-gloss paint and try it that way, but this seemed much easier, and I loved the look. Thanks again!

    – Janell W.

    • Hi Janell,

      Thanks for using my code 🙂 Okey, so oak cabs, you wiped them down (good) and brushed on first coat of peppercorn. Depending on how you applied it, you may/may not need another coat. Nearly EVERY time I apply the textured basecoats, I need to go back with a second – this is because I choose to brush on in a more even method, than to smoosh it on thicker. It makes sense the thicker you apply the tb the better it will cover, and the longer it will take to dry. Thicker applications are more full bodied looking, more primitive I think – its absolutely personal preference.

      With that said, if you applied it more evenly, don’t worry at all that you are seeing a few spots – the second coat brushed on will cover all that and give you a nice solid black top color. The second coat will not take as long to apply, nor will it require as much product- you’ll see. Don’t be afraid to pull most of that second coat off – as you move it around – a thin coating IS sticking to the first layer and its all you need.

      When its all dry I sand mainly my flat areas (using a palm sander or mouse will make it go really quick) – the inner detailed areas I dont pay much attention to unless I had a big booger that I didnt clean out while wet, then I’ll work to sand that down – yes, where you want the oak to show through you’d sand more – usually its on the edges 🙂 here is a post I did on SANDING https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/14/sanding-your-caromal-colours-finish/

      When you’re done sanding, wipe off dust w/dry rag, then brush toner on and wipe off. Give a day to dry, then absolutely seal them – I prefer poly’s as they are more durable in kitchens and baths – here read this https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/06/23/caromal-colour-can-i-a-vintage-dining-room-table/

      Hope this answers all your questions – remember, take some before and after photos, you’ll be amazed at the change! Then, email them to me 🙂 🙂 Have fun, Patty

  20. Patty,

    I am very interested in Caromal Colours products. I have my kitchen and 2 bathrooms of cabinets that need updating. Can you tell me about the durability of this product? How does it hold up to kitchen and bathroom use? I want something very durable that won’t chip. Can you give me some info about this? Thank you so much!

    Karen

    • Hi Karen, The Caromal Colours products are quite durable – I think that is one of their great selling features. I have them in several bathrooms, one is just recent, but I have them on several furniture items in my house as well. It is not a paint that will ‘chip’ like paint – its thicker than regular paint, and handles differently. Now could you bang something into your cabinet and have it ding it or gouge it or etc? Yes, just like it would do if it was maple, or oak, or mahogany. But – at least you could fix that – just redo that front face. I havent had any issues with my stuff – but i know with the sample doors that I have, I lug those around in my truck, doing workshops etc, and they bang on each other, and fall of displays and….. and there are a couple gouges on them.

      Additionally, you will want to topcoat your kitchen and bath – this helps keep your finishes looking fabulous – I like the wipe-on poly’s – search my site I have bunches written on topcoats.

      PAtty

  21. Hi Patty

    I would like to paint my oak kitchen cabinets with off white/ cream color with warm pin stripe glaze. Also, my kitchen appliances are white instead of stainless steel.

    Please let me know which product (with color name) I can purchase from you. I am willing to send my current picture of kitchen.

    thanks,

    elle

  22. Hi Patty,

    I really liked your work. I am living in India right now and would like to use some of the concepts shown especially this….

    Can you please tell me the details of the base coat and related information.

    Also why I am looking for this is because I have a rectangular false POP ceiling for which I have given white color, with the internal surface in cream color.
    The room size is 12 x 12 .
    Can you suggest something that will look more vibrant, fresh when I enter the room. I cannot go for Blue or green because I does not suite with the ‘groove pattern’ theme that I am going with.

    Please do reply.

    Thanks once again and keep the good work going.

    Regards,
    Nilesh

  23. Hi Patty!

    I am looking to buy some products soon, but I can’t decide between colors. Could you tell me if the putty is a gray or more of a beige? Its hard to tell with my computer screen. Also, does the colonial blue have a gray tone in it? Thanks for you help!

    • The putty is more grey when its UNTONED – putty untoned
      SW7031 Mega Greige is close

      The putty toned is more beige –putty toned
      kinda mix of SW6080 utterly beige and sw6101 sands of time

      the colonial blue has grey in it UNTONED-
      untoned blue
      is like sw6242 bracing blue or sw6249 storm cloud

      the colonial blue toned –
      blue toned
      is like sw6236 grays harbor and sw7075 web gray

      hope this helps – its hard to pin point to one color – the toner changes it alot, and you can vary the toner , more or less, to change your final color –

  24. Thanks Patty! Also, if you purchase the distress for success kit, do they provide the paint brush to put on the basecoat or is there a type of brush I should use?

    • You can purchase either by kit, or ala carte (ie: base color only, or toner only). Their kits are nice – they come complete, and in a pretty box too –
      distress boxed kit
      distress kit details

      the Distress Kit includes 1 quart textured basecoat, 1 16 ounce toner, a brush, gloves, sandpaper and simple instructions. The added cost for buying a kit ($47.50) is minimal – $1.50 more – than buying the basecoat and toner solo. The Distress Kit will cover an average 40-50sf.

      If you purchase the Barnworn Kit (for two color layering) it includes 2 quarts textured basecoat, 1 16 ounce toner, 1 16 ounce chipping creme, a brush, gloves, sandpaper and simple instructions. The barnworn kit is $94.50.

      🙂

  25. Hi Patty,

    I need some advice. I just purchased the kit and I’m trying to figure out how to put it on to make it look smooth. I know they say “mush” it on, but it makes it look clumpy and rough. I’m trying to get a finish like you have on some of your samples shown above, particularly the parchment. I have been using the brush that they have provided, should I be using a different one? I also notice if I “paint” it on, it streaks and doesn’t cover all parts of the wood. I’m new to this so I hope you can help! Thanks a bunch!

  26. I need help with stripping paint . Can anyone suggest a good paint stripper ? Thanks so much ! I will be purchasing the caramal colours to re-do when I have them stripped .
    (: Thanks so much .
    Deb

    • Hi Deb,

      Are you stripping paint off the cabinets you took down, or off the walls? You don’t have to strip the cabinets before Caromal’ing them – thats the beauty of their basecoats – unless you are wanting to strip for another reason??

      Have any pictures of your existing cabinets ? Email me them, in mean time, what color do you plan on refinishing them?

      • I love the parchment with toner . The cabinets are so old and gross . LOL They are not nice . I will send pics of one sanded and one not . We have 24 doors and 13 drawers to re-do . Thanks
        Deb

  27. Hi Patty,
    I’ve been reading your blog for a while now and I just love it. You have an amazing talent. I just wish I lived closer so I could take some of the classes. I want to redo my half bath and I’m thinking of putting wainscotting on bottom and a metallic paint finish on upper and possible the ceiling. Any suggestions for a do-it-yourselfer? One of the looks I like of yours has a look almost like the paint is running. I’m looking for colors of browns & grey, maybe black and I want to use red as an accent color. Help! What products do I use and how? Thank you!

    Kathy

    • Hi Kathy,

      Thanks for the bloggy kudos 🙂

      regarding your bathroom – if you wains the bottom at least you’re only looking at finishing 1/2 the wall – that is much easier to tackle as a diy than full size walls. Metallic paints can be tricky though, they actually look the best sprayed on as the MOA’s almost always show (brush and roller marks). Finishers often will do a technique over the metallic basecoat to mask MOA’s – or they’ll add additives to extend the open time of the metallic paints.

      A great line of metallic paints, and one I use most often, is by Modern Masters – the colors are brilliant – but they are not cheap – around $30-35 a quart. Good chance one of your local SW or BM stores stocks some of the popular colors. To get a vertical dragging/running look you’d roll on several colors, randomly, and then using a trowel you’d pull down in a vertical direction, pulling the colors into each other. Id suggest getting some sample boards and working on those first – the good thing is metallic paints are so lovely and rich, that often even blobs of color, hobnobbing together, will look cool in a crazy way! HOpe this helps 🙂

  28. Wondering……can you do this process on a plywood subfloor? Looking for an inexpensive answer to smelly carpet from the new puppy.

    • I don’t see why not Vickie…. People paint floors all the time. I’m not certain how far a quart would get you, rolling it on sub floor. The good thing is, the textured base coats bite instantly to raw wood, so you’d only be looking at one layer. You’d want to topcoat for protection.

  29. Thanks for sharing Patty! You’re a doll. I really appreciate your help!

    Kathy

  30. Hi, Patty,

    I just had a room blue boarded and plastered. I want it to have an old colonial look. the unpainted plaster has the look I want. Is there something available that can go over plaster to make it wipeable? I would prefer not using something that would preclude me from later being able to paint the walls (e.g., polyurethane). I was thinking something that would be equivalent to an eggshell paint finish, but translucent.

    thanks. Michele

    • Hi Michelle, yes they sell the Wall Sealer – a clear non yellowing sealer. That would give you what you’re looking for, I’m not 100% certain if the finish is eggshell enough – it changes it some but not sure how much. You might want to ask them when you’re ordering it. If you order, use my code PattyH – you’ll save a couple bucks.

  31. Patty,
    I can’t seem to find your mailing address so i can send you my samples. Would you send it to me?
    Many thanks,
    Cyndi

  32. Hello Patty!
    I’ve been lurking on your blog for the past week. We are doing a ton of updates on our new house that we hope to move into soon. Within the next month or two I would love to updated our 80’s medium oak cabinets (which seems to be a common thread around here!). I have two questions. First is color. I’m interested in a brown, but think chocolate will be too dark. I like the heavy toned putty, but on my screen it looks a little orangey? I want something mid toned brown…not heavily distressed – without haveing to do layer upon layer 🙂 Would putty with a different glaze on it work possibly? Something similar to this? http://www.countryliving.com/cm/countryliving/images/xW/maximize-kitchen-1-de.jpg . My second question is about how much to order. We have 6 average (30-36″) lower cabs, and just 4-5 uppers of average size. It’s hard to determine square footage when you’re doing the fronts/backs of doors and the bases. Thanks so much in advance. Btw – LOVE your blog 🙂

    • Amy,

      Yes, the chocolate is very dark, its a cool color -it makes its presense much like a black but softer/warmer.

      The putty is void of orange, the color on its own is flat and greyish, the toner warms it up and when more toner is left on it starts to look browner – for you to see the color you’d really want to order a couple samples – i could work them up for you and leave medium toner on it, then heavy toner on it so you could see for yourself.

      In this photo you can see how grey the basecoat color Putty is (it is on the door). I am starting to brush on the Toner which is like a medium brown. That background is an olive and brown tone torn paper just to give a color guide.
      putty door

      this is putty complete, with more toner left on than normal-
      putty done

      Actually that country living kitchen picture you sent looks like a maple kitchen – the pumpkin, toned, reminds me of maple cabinets, but i think it might be a little darker than you’d want and probably too much orange –

      pumpkin

      Another possibility would be the Parchment (cream) that has a lot of Toner left on – that goes very much a lighter caramel color, you’d get closer to the overall color of that country living kitchen, but you’d be missing a darker ‘something’ thats coming through from the background (if that makes sense?) This picture shows the toner being brushed on – you could leave much of this toner on (brush it all on, lightly blot off the door then do a fine drag with your dry brush to smooth out any blot marks) and you’ll get a more medium light brown finish…
      parchment getting toned

      You can also mix colors – maybe a parchment with a little bit of pumpkin mixed in, then toned?

      As far as how much you’d need i’d say you can get about 5 cab doors (both sides door, and base around it) per quart. that doesnt take into account any side cabinets you might have. i base my number off a bay of 5 doors i did that were installed within 2 walls- no sides were showing. (I was scraping jar too). if you are going over darker finish, and using wisteria (white) or parchment (cream) I think it takes more. So for sure you’d need 2 quarts, I’d get 3 to be safe.

      Hope this helps!

  33. jeanie stattelman

    you were kind enough to respond to my comments on painting counter tops but have since lost that info due to computer problems. it was a video showing how to paint countertops and you made it so simple looking i felt very confident after viewing it. please tell me where i can get that video again please. your website is awesome….

    • Thanks Jeanie 🙂 Sorry you had ‘puter problems, I had a glitch about 1 1/2 yrs ago and it wiped out 1/2 my saved email files – I thought I was going to lose my mind it left such a hole… after that I figured out how to save on an external as backup!

      I didnt have a video I sent you, but I did find the old email I replied to you with – the info was:

      I have a post on painting the counters https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/05/caromal-colours-to-paint-over-old-formica-counters/ did you read that one?

      It is easy – clean your surface good, then pick your color/colors and get started! It will bond nicely and remain intact, and cures nice and hard – protect it with a topcoat (poly) for added protection, of course you’d have to take care not to cut on it etc…

      You can do it anyway you want really, but my choice method would be getting a whiz roller and rolling on coat #1 – as you get near the corners and edges I’d take chip brush and pounce those areas in , then roll right with it so it all blends . when it dries I’d lightly take a sponge block and sand it to knock off any pokey’s. then I’d repeat, or you could do layer two by simply stippling it on with either chip brushes or French sponges – like bouncing/pouncing color on – can mix in diff. colors – or just use one.. then when dry and completely covered again light sand the nibs, wipe with dry rag, and then brush on your toner and wipe it off… can chip in more toner here/there for added depth – practice on a poster board first to get the hang of it, and to get an idea of what look you’re going for. Honest, its easy!

      One quart and 1 toner would do the counters , unless you have tons…. If you want multiple color then you’d need a quart of each – would have leftovers, but you’ll find a place to use it!

      Hope this helps – let me know how it goes! Patty

      ******************
      back to videos, I did have this ‘cavewoman’ quality video I did on painting laminate – https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2009/09/04/caromal-colours-laminate-cabinet-refinish-video/
      I know, I need to get a better how-to up – that’s on the top of my to-do list 🙂

  34. Hello we are redoing our kitchen and the cabinets are already white. What product do I use?

  35. Hi Patty,

    I started my cabinets in wisteria color and stopped because I saw I was going to run out and didn’t order more because I saw something new was on it’s way called Reclaim. Now I need your artistic help with what direction to go with my cabinet project. I painted one base and one upper frame with wisteria…should I go with Reclaim now…or what? I would like an easier application and do like the idea of strong paint (is it stronger than wisteria?) I have 5 little kids that help in the kitchen -these cabinets get a beating. What would you do? I’m thinking of sanding the wisteria and then using Reclaim on the doors and blend in the frames I started. What do you think?
    Can I use the barn wood glaze with Reclaim paint or do I need Reclaim glaze?
    I wish I could paint my counters with Reclaim as well as my cabinets. However the colors are too limited for for my countertops. Do you have any suggestions what can be done to countertops with Reclaim? Is it possible to change the color of Reclaim?
    Odd question but what color comes from the green and the latte mixed in equal parts?

    • Lisanne, i am buried this week -will respond in length here, but if you want an immediate response, please call me today on my cell (its the 313 number above) – i’ll have my blue tooth on and can give you my guidance – patty

    • Hi Lisanne, What are your cabinets – laminate, oak, standard white? I’m assuming oak because you’re painting them white. So, could you stop now, and sand the doors you did and start over with Reclaim? you could – have you read this post that I did on both product lines compared? This one https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/02/03/my-first-playdate-with-reclaim-paints/ and then this one on the Bright White Reclaim https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2011/02/04/caromal-colours-reclaim-bright-white/ .

      The Reclaim is easier – it rolls on, 2 coats will do you. The Country Living line is brushed on – 2 coats, but needs a light finish sand before toning it and you’ll want a topcoat for sealing in kitchen and baths. You dont sand the Reclaim finish at all – and the sealer is built in so you dont have to topcoat. Biggest difference is the Reclaim doesnt make the oak grain go away – it ‘masks’ it – but you’ll still see the grain whereas textured basecoats easily cover up the grain…

      BOTH lines are strong paint – all the fabulous qualities about the Caromal Colours paints are in both their Country Living and Reclaim paints- bonds to near anything, primer built in, no need for stripping, sanding etc…. stays put, cures do a nice hard durable finish – thats in both lines.

      The glazes are interchangeable – so you can use the Coffee Stain Glaze and Tea Stain Glaze from the earlier line on the Reclaim paint (just make certain you wait at least 3 days) and reverse you can use the Reclaim Antiquing Glaze on the Country Living line. I’m not certain about the Toner – which is whats used in the earlier line – I’ve not tried it yet, but I’m pretty certain it can go both ways…

      You CAN paint your counters – with either the textured basecoats (earlier line) or the Reclaim – have you read this post? https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/04/23/does-your-refrigerator-or-formica-need-a-facelift-paint-it/ if you used the Reclaim, you’d roll on a couple layers, then you could do the glaze over it. You could mix colors together to get to a new one – i’ve not yet mixed the sage and latte together – i’d guess you’d get a muddy color – like wet clay..

      I love the textured basecoats – they can create a really lovely durable finish on cabinets/furniture- you’d have to decide (if you have oak grain) if you want it gone or just hidden some…. Hope this helps ?

  36. Thanks SOO much. I will call you… I understand these questions are a curve ball.

  37. Hi Patty,
    I just purchased the country living caramol colours paint from a small antique shop in Massachusetts. Not sure if I bought the correct product to paint laminate cabinets? I am confused now that I saw a you tube video and the product is callec reclaim. What can I do if I purchased the incorrect product? Can you email the procedure and material needed for thisproject? Thank you so much.
    Lynda

  38. Has anyone tried painting a floor. I have a small bathroom with Armstrong vinyl that was poorly installed. I thought if you can paint a floor cloth on vinyl that it might work.
    Thank you

    • Hi Gail,

      nope, havent painted a floor yet, but the Reclaim for certain would apply easily over vinyl flooring. In fact, they show it over flooring in their demos. Easy because it can be rolled on. I’m sure you could use the textured basecoats (Country Living line) as well – but they dont roll quite as easily – maybe cut them with a little water – if I roll the textured basecoats I only like the first layer rolled, then second layer i fill in with a brush , whereas the Reclaim both layers are rolled on. Patty

  39. One more question. Would you use the new reclaim line or the original method?

    • hmm, was this for the question above? Im thinking so – I’d use the Reclaim for a vinyl floor. Thing is it comes in 4 colors – the Bright White, Off White, Latte and Sage…. you could apply the Antiquing Glaze over it as well – make sure the paint dries for a good 3 days – roll it on and wipe it off with a dry rag like you would wiping (dusting ) a dresser – that would give it a nice muted look like ceramic , know what I mean?

  40. I have light oak finished wood cabinets and want to paint them a cream color with a stain that will be a caramel color. My cabinets have polyurethane on them does this need to be sanded off first. What colors would you suggest to get the look I want.
    Thanks
    Dina LeBert

  41. Hello — I am interested in painting our dining room table using your products, however, I wanted to make sure that they would work on a veneer tabletop. Also, we have young children, so I’m wondering if the paint would hold up to them “using” the table (is it likely to scratch off, or is there any finish that I can put on top to protect it better?). Thank you!

    • Hi Shannon,

      Yes Caromal Colours products bond to veneer – they bond to near any surface, you want to make sure its clean, dry, grease and wax free. There are two diffferent paints that can be used –

      Here is Caromal’s description of the two basecoats side by side:

      The Reclaim comes in 4 colors, the TB’s have 12 colors. the TB’s are a heavier, kicked back look – very cool paints, can layer, distress , brush thick, or thin, – the Reclaim is more even, quick and easy, like a painted finish.

      For both, certainly I’d topcoat for extra protection – i am going to be doing my dining room set soon, in the Peppercorn (black) TB, and i plan on topcoating with a poly for added durability.

      hope this helps! patty

  42. Patty,

    I cannot find where to purchase the products I need to refinish my cabinets like you have in the DIY on your site. The Caromal Colours website/store doesn’t show me where they are. Please help.

    Thanks,
    Amy

  43. Hi Patty,
    After seeing your information on Caromal Colours I ordered the Artisans Collection in Parchment and the Toner to do my cabinets. However, I now see their new product RECLAIM. What are the difference between the two collections and which would be more durable for cabinets? Thanks!

    • Hi Christina,

      both product lines, The Artisan Collection and the new Reclaim, work under the same premise of ‘no prior sanding, stripping, priming’ and both are wonderfully durable for cabinets. The main differences in these 2 lines is A)ease of use and B) finish effect C) colors available

      If you scroll above a few posts you can see the side by side comparison of the 2 lines – the Reclaim is easier and faster to use (roll on, no light sanding after unless you wish some distressing), and has some topcoat protection built in, whereas the textured basecoats are brushed on, can effortlessly create a textured effect, and can be applied smoother but brushing takes more time, and there is light sanding after these paints are dry, before glazing/toning. The finish, however, is much more of a painted furniture /artisian finish than the Reclaim – the Reclaim is a more even, allover, painted effect. The Reclaim takes 3-5 days to cure before applying a glaze or additional topcoat, you can glaze/toner the textured basecoats as soon as their dry. Both paints, once their dry, are durable – you wont be able to scratch them or gouge them off. The reason for any additional topcoating is for washability, and for the textured basecoats the topcoat can/will add sheen – they dry more matte.

      I hope this helps! Patty

  44. Patty~

    I need to refinish my cabinet but need some help deciding on the color! I have choc. milkshake colored walls and white appliances. My new curtains have taupe, chocolate, cream, and espresso. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, I saw the peppercorn color and thought about furniture in the boys’ room. They have the same color walls. Thanks!

    • Hi Amy,

      what are you cabinets now? Any photos? Whats on the floor? do you like color? Obviously, white would be safe….. Chocolate would be clean and urban, and softer than black…. I love the peppercorn – i am doing my sons furniture in it soon – look for a post tomorrow on my sampling of the peppercorn over pumpkin for him (his choice). my choice would for his stuff was between chocolate and peppercorn – both dark colors but both would be perfect for a dude…… either will work.

  45. Hi Patty,
    I am painting our kitchen cabinets with Reclaim (white). However, when rolling it the paint seems to have a textured finish almost like a rough surface. Will this self level itself when drying or its this the finish to expect with the Reclaim paint? If the paint does give a more textured look and a smooth surface is desired can I sand them when they are completely dry? They are seem to be taking around three coats. I see it says no sanding needed so I didn’t want to do that and harm the paint.
    Thanks,
    Christina

    • Hi Christina,

      Are you using a textured roller – like the whizz roller? i am assuming you are …. yes, when it rolls out wet it looks way stipply-er but as it dries, most of that texture dries down. if you are being left with too much when it dries, do you think you have too much on your roller? i like to roller with not a super loaded roller…. As far as 3 coats, they are showing the bright white as the color that can take 3 coats for coverage over darker surface – the colors cover better.

      as far as sanding the surface, you can sand – i sand when i want to add distressing, but i dont think i’d sand to remove the heavier texture – unless maybe it was before the final coat if you had heavier areas…. i’d be afraid it would leave my finished coat as scuffed looking?

  46. Dear Patty,
    Just a little funny. I was going to paint my bathroom cabinets with Reclaim sage. First I had prepped them by wiping them down, and had remarked about the dog hair in our bathroom. I had put the Anatolin Shepherd (Comet) in the back yard, and he was barking in protest, so that I could paint in relative peace. Did I mention my “ever-ready” 5 year old was glued to my side? So I started painting, the dog was barking, and the 5 year old was chattering… all of the sudden she stopped and said, “We should let Comet” back in!” I asked why, and she replied, “Cause you can paint his hair right into the cabinet!”

    • out of the mouth of babes! You gotta love kids… and gotta cringe at animals! Between Bella and our two cats, I am really over the pet hair… did your 5 year old want to help paint?

  47. Hi Patty! I have been wanting to paint my kitchen cabinets for a couple years now and am truly inspired by your work. HOWEVER, my inspiration usually dries up when I get to my appliance garage with a tambour door. I’m thinking Reclaim would be too thick and the slats would stick together once dry. Any ideas on how to tackle such a project??! – Lane R.

    • Hi Jake,

      hmmmm….. what color are you thinking? are you looking for a solid, clean update where you distress no edges etc? im thinking, if you did, say, black, and distressed edges here and there to reveal your (im assuming oak) wood color underneath, how about then on your ‘garage’ just lightly dry brushing? you could even do that with all the other colors as well – keep your brush pretty dry – so that its not loaded with paint and I’d make an effort to keep the paint out of the grooves- -updated to same paint color, but lesser coverage, i think that would look cool – not painted the same like everything else. however, if you ‘re going for a solid painted, clean look, then it might look kindof 1/2 done if you keep its coverage light…..

  48. Hi Patty! I received my RECLAIM order and started painting my kitchen cabinets. I’m just GIDDY!! This stuff is AMAZING! I’m surprised I don’t have a sore neck from shaking my head in disbelief. The only thing that’s “hard” about using this product is waiting for it to dry….because you just want to keep going and going!!! I think I’ll actually be bummed when I’m all done! 🙂

    Your suggestions about the tambour door on the appliance garage were spot-on and it looks awesome!

    I have one question about applying a poly top coat. I’ve read your posts suggesting MinWax Rub On Poly, waiting 4 days to apply and doing 3-4 coats, but do I also have to rub the base of the cabinets…or could I get away with just the coating the door and drawer panels?

    Thanks for your help….I’ll soon be looking to try more of Caromal Colours products on my ever-growing list of things to paint!

    • hi Lane, Im so glad your tambour turned out! I’d love to see photos when you’re done. regarding the topcoat, I’d say the bases etc DONT need the extra protection, but one thing that you might notice is a sheen difference. If you find that’s noticeable, then I’d do all the surfaces you can see – I’d not do the insides of the doors. And good chance one coat wiped on the bases might get the sheen to look the same, whereas you can give 4 wipes to the doors/drawers . Make sense?

  49. Patty,

    I’m interested in painting my white bathroom melamine cabinets an expresso color. My bathroom has white tile on the floor and white trim. I need some contrast so I thought to go dark. I didn’t see a mention of using your products on melamine cabinets. What do you think? Thanks…….

  50. I am interested in your paint. I have a cabinet that has red enamel paint, will I need to strip that off or can I just use your barnwood paint on this?

    • no stripping Dianna – just clean and dry (and wax free). You could use either the textured basecoats (barnworn) or the Reclaim line- both will bond to your cabinet – the textured basecoats can be brushed thinner, or layed on thicker – you’re choice – your existing red would look real cool coming through a number of topcolors – like peppercorn, or bayberry, or putty….

  51. Jeannette Marchand

    Patti,
    I have Caromal Paprika,Peppercorn,Pumpkin, Black and Parchment as well as toner and chip cream. I would like to do a cabinet with the dominate color being Paprika Is there a picture of Paprika over Pumpkin and Paprika over Black that I can see on your site?
    I plan to use the toner.
    Thank you,
    Jeannette

  52. Carolyn Hallop

    Hi Patty,

    I want to paint my bathroom cabinets but they are white and not real wood, Can I do that with the Caromal colors and was hoping to do it in Peppercorn or could I do the Reclaim?.

    Will be dropping in to see you soon at your store.

    Carolyn Hallop

    • Absolutely can paint those white-not-real-wood cab’s Carolyn – just pop in when you can, both blacks will work, just give different visual results – you can decide which one best suits you. Hope all is well!

  53. what would you suggest for me to use if I were to paint an old iron bed ?? How do I order something from your site ? I am not to familiar with it

  54. Hey Patty,still waiting for your reply…

    • oops, so sorry, don’t know how i missed that one Betty! Old iron bed, it would depend on the look you want – any of the 3 lines of paint would work – the reclaim, typically a rolled on paint, will be harder to ‘roll’ – spindles etc… but it will dry to a satin sheen since built in sealer. if you like its colors, and want simple paint look (and can glaze it but need to wait 5 days) then that would be option. the textured basecoats would be easy to just smoosh on and create a heavier textural primitive/rustic look – if thats what you desire, i’d go with that, one coat would probably cover cuz its going on heavier, light sand, brush on toner wipe off and it would look like a cool older leather finish…. if you want smoother custom painted look then i’d go CeCe – those brush out way easier, and cover excellent – and a light sand is only necessary if you want it to ‘feel’ smoother – brush on the clear wax to seal and you’d be good to go- you can layer color with the CeCe easy, or even just wipe back a single color (with wet rag) to reveal some of your original iron, and then clear wax it…. OR you could even start with glue here and there, then brush over it with the CeCe and you’d have cracks revealing your iron… that could be really cool…

      to order from my site you can head to the STORE link at the top right – or go here shop.fabfinisher.com

  55. I am going to redo my kitchen cabs in Textured Basecoat and have a few questions. Some of the back of my cabs are plasterboard. Can I use this paint on those walls? Do I have to remove the cab doors as I want to paint the hinges because they are brass and are discolored? Will the paint stick to the hinges and stay on them for a long period of time considering they will be opened and closed repeatedly? Do I brush paint the small trim pieces at the very top of the cabs near ceiling edge? How easy is it to paint the inside of the cab tops, sides, etc? The project almost seems overwhelming.. Thanks.

    • Hi Teressa, Yes, you can use the textured basecoats on that plasterboard – or particle board, or laminate, paneling, whatever it might be – it will bond without a problem – just make sure every surface you start on is clean and dry.

      You dont have to remove your doors – the paints bond the metal, we’ve painted many sets of doors AND hinges with them – I find it easier to paint the doors while they’re still hanging, that w way you can do both sides of the door at the same time, and leave them open to dry. I painted several sets of cabinets at our old house (kitchen island, master bath, guest bath, lower level bath) and had no issues with the painted hinges. Just lightly give them a coating – dont have a big old blob on them where it will mess w/the mehanices (know what i mean?)

      Yes, typically both sides of the door, and then the inner band that wraps the inside cab – its usually what the hinge is connected to.

      We don’t paint the INSIDES of the cabinets – even when you have your cabinets refaced they dont touch the INSIDES of the boxes. Would take you forever….

      Depending on how large your kitchen is, it could take you a couple days to a week or so – to even longer if you choose to drag it out – how much time you dedicate to the project etc – but thats the beauty of it all – not only a cost savings, but a project that you control – in your own house, on your own time….

  56. Michele Schroeder

    hi patty….I finished my fireplace…had to do it twice bc I kind of am terrible with directions but LOVE, LOVE, LOVE it! Everyone who comes in says it looks like a paid a bundle for someone to come in and paint it! Nope just me! I will try and send pictures of b4 and after anyway where do you get your stencils from??? I am dying to try on a cabinet door. plus could you show more examples of how to work with metallic paint. Dying to try that out as well but until I see more examples I won’t have the nerve!
    Thanks you and your blog is still every so FAB-U-LOUS!!!

    • Hi Michele – yes please send pictures, I bet it looks fabulous! What stencils in particular are you looking for? there are so many sites – one that I’m starting to carry that I’ve used alot of (shes local) is Andreae Designs – she just changed their name to 85th Street Paint Decor , and their site isnt fully up yet, but they’ve got lovely designs – if you saw one that you liked, point it out and i’ll scope it for ya. As far as the metallics go, they are quite popular here, one of the top finishes folks are interested in trying/learning – I will say it is one that takes a little finessing until you get the feel for it – its a ‘feel’ thing, hard to capture with photos if that makes any sense…. its a do-able finish, but one i’d suggest practicing on test boards, until you get the hang of it… I have more projects to post, look for them upcoming… and, thanks for the kind words!

  57. Wondering if you come to bale people out from bad ideas and help with good ideas?

    I would love your help and expertise

  58. Wondering if you come to bale people out from bad ideas and help with good ideas?

    I would love your help and expertise

    Please

  59. Help !! I hate my kitchen cabinets !! They are white laminate cabinets and I love to paint them distressed black or a reddish brown..my house decor is very country..any thoughts or ideas for the right paint and if it would work with the laminate cainets…thanks

    • I’d use the Caromal textured basecoats – perfect for what you’re looking for – the offer black (peppercorn) and redbrown (paprika) – works perfect over laminates – if you have an accent section like island or side flanking cabs, you could always do something different – these 2 colors look sweet layered – red over black and black over red, with some texture – very cool!

  60. Hi Patty! I’m so extremely happy I came across your site. We just moved into our new home and I absolutely cannot stand my green tiled fireplace… YUCK! I was interested in painting over the tiles b/c it would be alot cheaper and easier. I’m just not sure where to start. The tiles have a rough texture to them and they arent very glossy. I’m looking to do a neutral color on the tiles and my mantle is white. Any suggestions on where to start?

  61. Hi Patty, I’ve been selling refurbished and painted items for over a year now in my antique booth in north Lansing and through a consignment shop. Ever since I started using the CeCe Caldwell paints my items have been selling like crazy. I’ve had a few people contacting me wanting a demo using the products. I was wondering if it’s easy to become a distributor of CeCe paints? I wish I were closer to you, I would have you come to my booth to do demos!

    • Hi Erin, I love your mom, she is one of my favorite customers 🙂 She’s told me about your booth – you are selling faster than you can paint! I think that means it’s time to raise your prices a wee bit 🙂 (thank you, by the way, for the white over cinco tip). To become a distributor, you need to be in an untapped region, and I think you’re right smack in the middle of one (shhh, I wont mention names or you’ll go there instead of sending your mom in to see me 🙂 ) – No, I shouldn’t be that way – they are located in Wiliamston – and are the main distributors for the mid-east states. If you were, say up north (they have no one in northern Mi) then it would be a matter of investing xx up front for xx minimum of stock and then you could be set up to retail it. I love demos, they are a blast – i should give you a shout next time we’re your way (just was last weekend, for soccer) – then again, when we are there Im on the field!

  62. Hi,
    I have a ranch house with pavers throughout. I just wallpapered my kitchen ceiling with tin look wall paper which I painted with metallic silver. My pavers are.the typical flower pot color. The appliances are chrome. My cabinets are whitish laminate very plain and ugly. I put bronze doubler horse shoe handles on them. I would like s warm finish for the cabinets. What would you suggest? do you also have any thing to seal the pavers with in a gloss? Next my grandmas old pine bedroom set… it has a dry finish and some scratches? What product should I get for that? I have a lot of projects to finish before winter so can hardly wait for your advise to get started.
    love your web site!

    • Hi Cherie,

      First off, no I don’t have anything for sealing pavers, sorry – I’d suggest getting some advice from your paint store or HD on exterior topcoats- or even from a paver store? I’d make the right choice though, because nothing worse than peeling clear coats off of outside stone paths….

      What color is your kitchen floor? The Reclaim is the easiest to use for cabinet refinishing – white and offwhite with glaze is the most popular – then for darks the mocha and licorice are – the mocha is pretty (dark cooking chocolate brown) with the silvers, but its dark…

      For the old bedroom set – you could use anything on it, reclaim, tex basecoats, or cece paints – you’d have to first find a color/look you like…..

      We offer sampler pots of paint which are a great way to try colors out – and have the wood 3 inch samplers as well that we’ll paint out for you if you are undecided- be sure to use the shipping coupons, those help save a couple bucks.

      Hope this helps, patty

  63. Thank you for responding. I. Can’t believe with your schedule how you do all this! I love your work and help. My floors are the color of deep warm terra coat flower pots. My ceiling is the metallic silver painted wallpaper that looks like a tin ceiling. I have very western ranch cowboy interior. My cabinets in the kitchen are plain no detail off white laminate or similar material. I would like a warm color to paint but not too dark like the black . My appliances are black and I have a lot of cabinets in an open kitchen family room setting. I am not certan what to use as far as steps and color and reclaim or the other basecoat and glaze. Parchment and putty seem right but I do need advise on type of basecoat and toner etc.
    Really appreciate you and this product, I have so many projects I want to do now since I found you and your site!

    Thanks,
    Cherie

    • Hi Cherie,

      I would say the Reclaim will be the easiest for changing your cabinets – or you could use the Textured basecoat and apply it smoother for a cleaner, less textured finish – you can watch that application here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3aiKztYpM0 whereas the reclaim is just roll on – a couple coats until you get complete coverage. both can be glazed or toned – the parchment textured basecoat or offwhite reclaim would both be nice – the toner will age it more and change the whole overall effect whereas the glaze will be more subtle and stay mainly in your cracks/crevices. depends on your personal style -both would work with your decor.

  64. Hi, Patty!! I have been reading your blogs and watching video’s for three days.. I am interested in doing my kitchen cabinets in the Reclaim off white and antiquing glaze. I think! I also want to paint my walls in the kitchen and do not know what color to use. I would like a bright color not a dark color as my house is dark enough. I sea foam green on the walls now.
    I have several projects I want to start but kitchen first. I have oak cabinets and think the antiquing would look great. If I send pictures of my kitchen I was hoping you could help me with the wall color. I am so excited to do this…
    Thanks,
    Sharon

    • Sharon, honestly ? I suck at picking paint colors – i feel like thats such a personal thing – and one that requires someone to sit smack in the middle of your room, on the floor, and feel the space…. my advice will more than likely be in the neutrals, becuase i tend to play it safe – any shade of brown from dark to caramels… or venture over to grays and cooler tones – stay away from pinks and reds in any color paint , at least i do – those never seem to go with anything, AND make our skin look ucky too! If you’re looking to go lighter on cabbies with a soft glaze, then give those walls some depth – and if you like color, consider committing to one – burnt orange/rust/bronzes or….

  65. Hi Patty,
    same here as Sharon, we bought a house last year and my husband and I we are remodeling everything by ourselves..tons of projects including the kitchen as well, so I am looking forward to read your comments on Sharon’s post. Also I was trying to buy some of your samples in your website and I couldn’t. I live in Canada (Alberta), and I wonder how can I get the products. I am an a beginner-non experience at all- ;-p, so any advice is really appreciated. Thanks so much!
    Angela

    • Great way to save $$ Angela – that will be us in the next year or so, buying again, and more than likely buying something that will need some tweeking to make our own…. no one to do it but us, otherwise costs too much right?

      Regarding shipping to Alberta, there are retailers in the western states, have you checked them out?

  66. Still enjoying your amazing talent!
    I just nominated you for a “Liebster Blog Award”! Please check out my latest post: http://wp.me/p12yAb-H1, to participate and nominate your favorite blogs! Have a great weekend!

  67. So I’ve received my first shipment and am in LOVE with the putty & young Kansas wheat. They’re fantastic together in the lighting in my home. Virginia Chestnut resolves purple on my monitor, and in my living room! Couldn’t be a nicer, darker shade of almost eggplant. Go figure!

    I’m not going to ask color advice. You might need a separate page for that, given how many people can’t pick on their own. 🙂 I would like to ask a technique suggestion. Or a page that lets us ask… “What the heck would Patty do with this..?” I have a few for that page, I admit.

    I have an armoire that was my mother’s. In my lifetime alone I remember it being a dark colonial blue, then a barn red, and then to its current, cream-ish color. I’d like to reveal some of the older colors under all this. Then, my plan is to putty ‘er up with some chipping cream. I was thinking if I carefully used paint stripper and sanded, I could reveal some of the layers, then use my new, beautiful paints.

    Does that sound reasonable or way off…?

    • Hi Christine, I am so glad you are enjoying the paints, and experimenting with the different brands – i am loving the Caromal textured basecoat/ CeCe combo – such a cool easy finish!

      I actually had a long reply posted and lost it – I’d love to set up a separate page like you suggested, but it would be an open invitation for help to anyone, and while I’d love to give in depth responses to all the emails and phone calls I get, I don’t have enough hours in a day let alone a year. i’d rather have my customers email me directly for help, advice, direction etc because for me that’s providing a worthwhile customer service. So next time, you are more than welcome to email me!

      As far as your old armoire goes, you’d have to use stripper and a scraper and work away at the old layers. If you think its lead based you’d want to handle differently – heres a link http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_remove_or_strip_layers_of_old_paint.

      I’m thinking, do you really want to through all that work ? if you want to see another color thru the putty, like say the red or blue why not get a sampler of paprika, a sampler of colonial blue then randomly brush/stipple it around your piece? then do the chipping creme, then paint with putty and you’ll reveal back to some red, some blue and the creamish color?

  68. I would like to be on your email list

  69. Hi Patty,
    Before I learned of the caromal colours/reclaim, I refinished (sanded,stained, sealed) every single cupboard in my house (3 bathrooms and kitchen). Some turned out ok, but my 1990’s kitchen oak cabinets (that I stained white), still show the grain and worn areas. I would now like to paint them white. The reason I didn’t in the first place was because I didn’t want them to chip and look unprofessional. Yuck!!
    I don’t know What product I should use?? Reclaim? Thinner and might show grain, but smoother texture. Or Textured base coat, thicker, So wont show grain, but Not as smooth of a finish?
    I don’t want the end product to look painted. I want professional.

    Also, I have white appliances and want white cupboards to match. So I think I should go with the bright white? Or wisteria? And not off-white? What are your thoughts? And i don’t want any toner or glaze.
    Thank you for all this great information! If this product is as durable as its claimed to be, I would consider being a rep. I have tried so many techniques and products and all paint seems to end up chipping! I’m very excited to try this!! Thank you!

    • Megan, both the reclaim and the textured basecoat will stay put. the reclaim needs to be rolled on and requires no sanding after its dry. the bright white usually takes 3 coats to cover. it doesnt hide grain if you have grain. the tex basecoat is brushed on, and does require a light sanding when its dry to knock out any imperfections, but it will hide the grain more – its the only paint i’ve found that will. you can watch this video and see the wisteria in action http://youtu.be/h3aiKztYpM0 – its a lovely finish.

      i’d stick with the brighter whites than the offwhites if you have white appliances, jmo. hope this helps, patty

  70. Thank you so much!

  71. Patty,

    I can’t tell you how much I look forward to your posts. You are so creative and inspiring.

    I have a question, what is your source or sources for the hardware you use on your furniture (knobs and pulls)? They are so unique.

    Thank you.

    Laurie

  72. Goldie Eldridge

    Omg ,I wish I would’ve found ur website several months ago ,worked myself crazy on my kitchen cabinets !!! Cleaning ,sanding painting primer 3 coats of Sherwin Williams paint @$60 a gal they are not smooth like I wonted they scratch and I’m just sick with the end results ….help me please I’m not sure what to do ??? Can I use ur product over what’s been down ? I’m a 59 yr old grandmother with grandkids who are not careful around my cabinets Help … I’ll buy the product just where do I start ??? Thank You Mamaw from Tennessee ……..

    • Hi Goldie,

      is your paint peeling or just not what you wanted? if the surface is secure, and not lifting then yes you can go right over that with either Reclaim OR the Textured Basecoats – the easiest would be the reclaim – its a roll on, 2-3 coats depending on color, and then voila!

  73. Colleen Frazee

    Hi. I am interested in setting up a retail area and workshop in my family cabinet business here NE Ohio. Do you offer or know of somewhere to advise us on this? The Caromel Colour items interest me most but Would be interested in other products you use. Anyonfoatipn is appreciated. Thank You. Colleen Frazee Gambier, Oh

  74. Hi. Ive set up an account and I’ve joined your blog!.So appreciative of your information you share.
    I am new to DIY projects and my husband and I will be tackling our 1990s oak kitchen cabinets. My question is- do you have any close up shots of oak cabinets in bright white w/out glaze to show the texture/grain difference btwn TB and Reclaim?! Im leaning toward reclaim bc of the ease but not sure how much grain will show through..? I do not want any glaze..
    I appreciate your help bc I am ready to order NOW 🙂
    How long does it take to ship to FL?
    Lisa Tampa FL

  75. Patty,

    As much as I love DIY, I just have the time. Can you recommend someone who could paint my kitchen cabinets using your products?

  76. hello patty
    can you please tell me if you have any videos how you did the counter with aura stone thanks solli

    • I wish the aurastone was as easy as a few videos Solli – aurastone is now owned by Granicrete – both companies offer products and training – the training is required before you can become an installer, and you have to be an installer to purchase, and /or a retailer to sell/teach. I am not a retailer for them, only an installer, so i can not teach it nor sell the materials to do those finishes. With that said, it is not a cheap option – epoxy is costly. Sorry couldnt help more – patty

  77. I just want to know if you will be open this Saturday – Memorial Day weekend.

    • No we werent Ruth, its the first time I’ve closed for a Saturday – the weather forecast was so perfect that we figured local Detroit would be out enjoying it! We do keep up to date info on the FAcebook page, the website is harder to update real time as we lost our web person that created it!

  78. Hello
    I’m a new user of chalk paint. I am doing my laundry room cabinets and my kitchen cabinets with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (in pure white) and I’m trying to figure out what sealant to use that WON’T yellow the white color? I purchased some Rustoleum clear poly (soap and water clean up) and it wants to pool in the corners and as it dries it is yellowing. Any advice? Thanks so much
    jeanie

    • yes, I’ve seen the water based poly’s still amber ever so slightly – we did a testing with the minwax wipe on polys that we stock and found this, though it is nothing compared to its oil based sibling… American Paint’s Topcoat Finish is waterbased and doesnt yellow, also Caromal Colours sealer – its waterbased but low voc. And Beautiful’s Satin or Matte Finish , both low voc, non yellowing.

  79. christine maura

    Hi Patty, I am amazed by your work. For some time I have admired a piece you did on your site, and don’t know how to achieve the look. I would be thrilled if you could help. The particular piece is on your site in the furniture section, about 3/4 down the screen. It’s a vanity/desk with a chair. Can you tell me how you achieved the colors on the top, sides, and drawers of this amazing piece? I’m a newbie and just placed my first order for a kitchen cabinet makeover. I may be getting ahead of myself, but I’m already planning my next project! The vanity top is a beautiful warm brown on top, and the colors on the drawers an sides of piece compliment it perfect. Your work is to die for!!! Thanks for any help you can provide. Christine M. Connecticut.

  80. Hi Christine, im not sure which vanity/desk chair you are talking about, as there are about 4 or so listed in a row? when you say warm brown on top, im guess its one of the ones where I wood grain the top – do the sides of the drawers have zebra stripes on them? if so that was smoke signal, 2 coats on the base, and i used a little bit of plymouth rock watered down, and washed over the wet second layer. i sanded and sealed it with APC clear wax mixed with APC pewter mica. the drawer sides were Reclaim Mocha and silver blend metallic to create the stencil pattern. For the top its usually more layers than not, as I keep adding on my tops until I like the color etc – sometimes i’ll start with a brushed layer of Caromal Textured Basecoat Chocolate, and then a layer or two of chalk/clay – this one i probably used a brown, like leather boots, and some of the gray smoke signal. then i sand, then seal with topcoat, then glaze and/or use stain (left over from wall finishing days) , then seal again, with something like poly, then buff over with a wax – i tops are great but they are hard for me to remember sometimes, because they’re different every time- so i forget what I grabbed when. hope this helps a little!

  81. Dear Patty, I want to buy the 3 paints you used for the pale silver vanity pictured with text “Another waterfall vanity – first layer reclaim mocha, second layer metallic silver blend, third layer toner.” Which tone is it and what does it do? I looked on the site but couldn’t find it. Thanks in advance for your help!

  82. Hi. We are getting very dark hardwoods in. Replacing oak floor and tan carpets. We have the boring builder grade banister. It’s oak with white spindles. I want to make it all antique white. What do you suggest I purchase?. Less work the better because I want to do it before floors get Iinstalled.

    • by ‘antique white’ do you mean a glaze/antiqued finish? or just a soft white? for soft white, the easiest would be reclaim offwhite, or if thats too french vanilla, then mix 1/2 offwhite 1/2 bright white. The Reclaim is meant to be rolled on to avoid brush marks, but rolling a banister/spindles would be tough so I’d use a brush and apply thin so its more a dry brushing – that will help avoid brush marks. i’d guess 2 coats , thin, would do it . The Reclaim has a sealer built in, so if your spindles dont have toddlers jamming on them then I’d not even topcoat over them again – but on the railing i’d probably add a topcoat, for extra protection – like Caromal’s Sealer/finisher, (water based so it wont yellow), it will add some extra sheen as well. if you want an antiqued finish, you could use the bright white as a base, 2 coats for sure as the white white covers less, and then a glaze, brushed on and wiped back, where it will stay in the crevices, but I dont think you’re thinking this way, as it would be one more time over the whole staircase, and with the Reclaim you need to wait at least 3-5 days before applying the glaze, otherwise your paint will get gummy

      the most important thing would be the prep – if you have EVER cleaned or treated that stairway with any wax or conditioner etc – like murphys oil, pledge, lemon oils, guardsman etc -then you WANT to add a step in your prep – clean your surface first with either a mineral spirits or full strength white vinegar – this will remove the film (silicone) that these types of cleaners/conditioners can leave behind, and cleaners like TSP, simple green etc, does NOT remove that. If you paint over this residue you will risk a poor bonding of the paint finish. hope this helps! patty

  83. Patty, it’s official I am addicted to your paints! I refished kitchen cabinets I have for a rental property, and the transformation is AMAZING. Everyone is asking if we purchased them new, and they were old dingy, ugly cabinets. Question, Can you give any ideas as to where I can find project furniture pieces? You seem to find the most gorgeous antiques. I want to try furniture, and can’t figure out where to begin my search. Any ideas?? Christine

    • Hi Christine, so glad to hear your cabinet went fab – whoo hooo! hmmm… project furniture pieces – well, right now garage sales are EVERYWHERE! hit those up, you’ll find some good stuff – check your thrift stores – like St Vincent De Paul, Salvation Army, Thrift Stores, Habitat for Humanity has a store called ReStore -they always got furniture – then check estatesales.net and plug in your zip code – you’ll find sales in your area, and tons of photos to peruse. Lastly i’d say give Craigslist a shot…. Patty

  84. Hi Patty,
    My husband and I just bought an old house and we want to paint the kitchen cabinets (oak wood) and bathroom vanities (oak wood). I am not sure which product to use and need your help. The wood is old and stained dark with all the grain visible. I want to paint the kitchen white and bathroom vanities espresso color and give it a more modern look.
    Its not clear how to order directly from you. Can we please help me with the process?
    Thank you so much,
    -Kellie Lynn

    • Kellie, what look are you going for? More modern would make me think cleaner lines with more even finish – Reclaim Bright White would work for you, as would the American Chalk/Clay Paint in Navajo White. The Reclaim is easier, and can be found here http://shop.fabfinisher.com/RECLAIM-PAINT_c30.htm

      Reclaim also has the Mocha, which is a great , and very popular, espresso color. American Paint info would be here http://shop.fabfinisher.com/AMERICAN-PAINT-COMPANY_c21.htm. that paint would be brushed on, and you’d want to sand it before sealing, to smoooth out your finish – the more you sand the smoother it becomes. Both of those links are directly into the shopping cart – you can use PattyH for $2 off shipping or PattyH5 for $5 off a larger order –

      PAtty

  85. Hi Patty! What clear coat would you put over the bright white reclaim paint on kitchen cabinets? I know it says I don’t have to but I want to make sure they are durable. Thanks..love your website!

    • Hi Stacey,, Thanks! Topcoating over white – STAY AWAY FROM ANYTHING oil – it will amber your paint finish. I’ve even found the waterbased poly to ever so slightly change a little…. Beautiful has a great topcoat, low voc, water based – in both satin sheen and matte (i LOVE the matte!!) – both of those would be great options –

      http://shop.fabfinisher.com/TOPCOATS-wax-and-non-wax-options_c32.htm

      remember, though – the Reclaim paint doesnt like to be wet the first week … if you’re going to use water based topcoat then I’d play it safe and wait 5 or so days…… hope this helps!

  86. Hi Patty, this has been a really bad customer service from the ReClaim Paint. I ordered mine on June 20th and still haven’t received it. We had to find alternatives and move on with our project. This really leaves a bad taste as I have a million things going on and I can’t even count on receiving the paint which was paid in full!!!

  87. Patti, from a current, happy customer: I’d like to order Mandy’s stencil. I’m in Upper Marlboro. Do you have my email, or which should I use to contact you with payment?
    Thanks,
    Christine

  88. Karen Mazzocchi

    Hi Patty,
    I have the standard 90’s ugly oak cabinets that I am looking to paint. Not willing to go through a huge kitchen reno, I prefer to try and just paint them. I’ve seen several of the products here in your blog but I’m confused by what to use. I see different techniques, such as the chipping cream and the glazing and I’m not sure how much more work would be involved in doing the chipping cream. My other issue is, I’m terrible at committing to a color and I wouldn’t know where to begin without actually seeing things firsthand. You can do samples on oak am I correct? Its a big change so I want to be 100% sure before I dive into this project. Any help would be appreciated.

    Karen

    • Hi Karen,

      no need to be confused – we offer 3 distinctly different types of paint that can be used directly over your existing cabs without sanding/stripping/priming – all thats required is a clean, wax/oil free surface.

      Reclaim Paint – the most popular choice for cabinets, its meant to be rolled on so that you wont see brush marks, has a built in sealer (though heavier use kitchen users still apply an extra coat of a topcoat for added protection), and doesnt need to be sanded to knock out any application marks, because it was rolled on brushed. its by Caromal Colours.

      Textured Basecoats – thicker, like whippy peanut butter, can be rolled but creates a light stippled texture, brushed on thinner will create a smoother finish, typically takes 2 coats (white //offwhite can take up to 3) and requires a light sanding to give it a softened refinished finish. you can use any glaze directly over it, and any kind of topcoat works well too. its by Caromal Colours.

      Chalk/Clay Paint – can be rolled , will create a lighter stippled texture, or brushed, typically takes 2 coats, and is usually sanded to refine the finish. Must be topcoated properly to insure durablitiy. its by American Paint Company.

      Chipping creme is used when you want to layer 2 colors and you are using Caromal Colours paints – chalk paints do not require chipping creme. We see many folks use chipping creme in the kitchen, but generally as an accent like an island, etc… otherwise, yes, it would be a bigger job as it adds an extra step or so to the finish….

      we do do wood samples – can find that link here http://shop.fabfinisher.com/CUSTOM-WOOD-SAMPLES_c10.htm

      some samples are done over wood (oak), others are done over crown trim pieces that were primed – if you wanted to see them over ‘wood’ you’d want to mention that in your order. Hope this helps, patty

  89. Looking forward it!

  90. Lisa Rutherford

    Hello Patty!
    I’ve been researching painting my kitchen cabinets and everything I read about Reclaim makes me think I can do it myself. I have nice solid honey oak cabinets and either want to paint them white or light gray. Since Reclaim doesn’t offer a gray shade, how can I achieve that with these paints? I will definitely order from you when I decide between white or gray. By the way, what is your opinion? My appliances are white, my counter tops are carerra looking marble quartz and my walls are….believe it or not….very light pink! I love pink!

    Thank you in advance for your thoughts!
    Lisa

    • lol, Lisa, i LOVE pink too!!! I bet its cool 🙂 Yes, you can do your cabbies – the Reclaim really is an easy way to tackle the project, we have customers that use it honestly, almost daily, and all ages – young to old – biggest thing is prep – make sure your surfaces are clean and WAX/OIL free – if you are unsure, then give them first a wipe down with either mineral spirits or undilute white vinegar. let that dry, then use a mild soapy rag to clean off any leftover residue.

      to achieve a light gray you have several options –

      *Reclaim’s pewter is gray but its a blue/gray, like locker room gray. lightening it with a little offwhite reclaim will get you to a light gray.

      *Reclaim’s licorice is black, and adding offwhite reclaim gets you to many shades of light gray as well. you can also add white reclaim instead, and IT will also create various shades of light gray.

      it all comes down to WHAT color YOUR gray is. you could always order a custom wood sample and in the special instructions ask for a light gray — the link http://shop.fabfinisher.com/CUSTOM-WOOD-SAMPLES_c10.htm

      that way, i’d be mailing you a wood sampling, and in the box i could include an index card with a finger swirl of the other grays mixed to light – so you could see the tone of each – once you SEE the colors in your space , you’d know which works best, then it would be up to you to decide how light you want it, or how deep you want it (light you’d add more light, deeper you’d add less light ) does this make sense? or if you want to see several versions on a bigger sample, just order several single color ones, and note in the comments what you’re looking for, and we’ll customize for you.

      with the description of your kitchen, i think the light light gray sounds fab….

  91. Your photo of the lovely damask stencil being used with a dark wax has captured my attention. I noticed it on Pinterest. and have spent several hours looking for that very same stencil, but no luck so far. Would you mind sharing the name of the company to contact? Thank you in advance.

  92. Hi Patty, I just happily landed on your blog while looking up color combos for chalk paint. I’ve been transforming pieces with ASCP Annie Sloan chalk paint and love the results and artistic flexibility with the paints but the products are cost prohibitive. I’m I terest end in visiting your store and checking put so e of your products. are they less pricey than ASCP?

    Thanks

    • Hi Sandy, Im not certain what AS’s paint retails at, APC’s quarts are around 35 and their samples around 10 each. their finishes are worth your visit – the waxes will blow you away, way easier to use than AS and authentically all natural with no smells either 🙂 Caromal Colours has the Botanical line arriving end of October – 14 european colors, not certain the pricing yet, but requires no topcoat so you save $4 there. Dont come on a Sunday or Monday – we’re open Tuesday – Saturday.

  93. Can you use this paint on glass to make it look,like salt glaze pottery?

    • i had to google salt glaze pottery to see what it was – i think you could get create similar finishes, you’d have to play with colors and layering/application, and then to get a glossier finish i’d say switch to a gloss topcoat.

  94. Patty,

    Thank you so much for all of your information I love your blog. My husband and I are building new kitchen cabinets out of red oak. I really love the look of the cream cabinets with the brown glaze. My husband however does not want me to paint the cabinets he wants to be able to see the grain of the oak. What product would you suggest that we would both get what we want?

    • You could always go with the Reclaim Bright or Off White, roll it on a nice lean coat and wipe back Leaving just a thin layer of color and the wood grain will show through. Allow the 5 day cure time that Reclaim requires and then when you glaze the wood grain will show up even more. We are going to be carrying our own line of custom glazes in the next few weeks so you may find a brown that you will love. Stay tuned! 🙂

  95. I’m trying to achieve a french country look for the legs on a dining room table. I have stained them and now painted them (navajo white). Do I apply the dark wax now and should I use a brush or a cloth to apply wax?

    • do you have the topcoat or the clear wax? know that the dark wax directly over unsealed navajo will go quite antiqued in color. if you first topcoat then dark wax you get a lovely antiquing, or if you just want to go WAX i cut the dark with 1/2 clear, mix it together well, then apply. you will get a lovely french country look!

  96. SEO| Internet Marketing| Website Designing

    Hi,

    We can fairly quickly promote your website to the top of the search rankings with no long term contracts!

    We can place your website on top of the Natural Listings on Google, Yahoo and MSN. Our Search Engine Optimization team delivers more top rankings then anyone else and we can prove it. We do not use “link farms” or “black hat” methods that Google and the other search engines frown upon and can use to de-list or ban your site. The techniques are proprietary, involving some valuable closely held trade secrets. Our prices are less then half of what other companies charge.

    We would be happy to send you a proposal using the top search phrases for your area of expertise. Please contact me at your convenience so we can start saving you some money.

    In order for us to respond to your request for information, please include your company’s website address (mandatory) and /or phone number.

    Sincerely,

    Lisa
    lisadigitalmarketing@gmail.com

    COMPLETE INTERNET MARKETING SOLUTION
    SEO – PPC – SMO – Link Building – Copyright – Web Designing – PHP

  97. Patty, I have a question. You had a waterfall vanity, with a whole collection that you painted silver. Do you know what the manufacturer was of the vanity? I have one a lot like that one, very, very close in design.

  98. Is there a way to sign up for the April 23rd Countertop class (2 pp) online?

    • Hi Andrea, i just emailed you our local contact # – unfortunately we dont have online registering, though it IS in the works right now – we are in the process of changing over our online store and that will be one future feature – the ability to register for workshops. give us a call tomorrow and we can get you signed up over the phone – thanks!

  99. Hi Patty,

    I am wanting to antique my kitchen cabinets & found your work & fell in love with the Caromal Colours line. I have medium tint oak cabinets. I love the Parchment color with toner door (long skinny one) you have as an example, to use for my upper cabinets. Was that toner wiped with a damp cloth to give it that final finish? I believe I saw a post or video saying it was.

    For my bottom cabinets, I am wanting to do a light or medium gray color. I know the putty color is gray before toner, but I do want to antique it with the toner. If you use a wet cloth to wipe it, does it still look brown/beige, or does it appear to be a gray color with a brown tint to it? If it still appears brown/beige, what are my options for achieving the gray color with a toner applied. If you have pictures of something like I am looking for, that would be great. I am going for a rustic industrial look, & I have hammered pewter looking furniture throughout the room, & stainless appliances, so any recommendations on colors for the bottom cabinets would be greatly appreciated. I’m pretty much decided on the Parchment for the top cabinets. Thanks in advance!

    • Hi Tyler, It’s really hard on our end to know what exact finish you’re going for. We do offer wood samples on line where you can actually see the colors with different colors/toners.
      Thanks !

  100. Flyinirish33/Jennifer B

    Patty, I “met” you in 2010 – not long after you adopted Bella (my Sadie was a pup, too, at that time). Here’s the link to our convo (https://fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com/2010/07/02/still-waiting-wisdom-panel-puppy-results/). I was wondering how she is doing? Haven’t seen any photos of her posted lately. — Jennifer, Sadie, Pepper, and Duncan :=)

  101. August 2010 you show a Cresent Bronze Bronzetone with a foil. Would that technique/products be suitable for furniture? It is Exactly what I want for a entire bedroom suite of furniture. If so…can you tell me the products used and technique? Or a way to achieve that look with products suitable for furniture? Love the site and thank you.

  102. That was back when I used specialty/faux finish pruducts. We do carry wonderful Metallic options that go over our Caromal Colour paints. If you look under Metallics/Leaf/Foil/Mica on my website you will find useful information.
    Thanks

  103. Courtney Ward

    Hi Patty!
    I have ordered products from you and have loved every single one. I use both american paint company and the textured basecoats. I’ve also done your metallic texture hide which was awesome! I now have an oak pedestal table that I want to paint for our dining room. I was considering trying the reclaim licorice for the first time. I was going to strip and stain the top a dark color but I just don’t enjoy the staining process much. So I just saw your sample board where you mixed poppy and licorice together with a black glaze. Would this give me the look of a wood finish? I’m not concerned about the woodgrain not showing through. I mostly am just looking for a way to achieve a rich color with a nice sheen for the tabletop that would offer a contrast to the licorice base. I so appreciate your work and you continue to inspire me.
    Thank you,
    Courtney

  104. Hello Patty, love your site. I am new to refinishing and recently ordered Modern Masters Metallic English Brown paint. I want to refinish some dental crown moulding for a more Tuscan look and just saw your advice on an oil-rubbed bronze finish with MM Metallics Statuary Bronze and Caromal Colours Chocolate. I tried to use your code PattyH on your store page and it errored. Is this code still valid? Thanks and looking forward to trying this out.
    Delaine

    • Hi Courtney, That combination is really pretty and gives a nice stained look. It is not the easiest process….requires alo of practice to get consistant/even finish.The paints are mixed %50-50, applied then wiped off. I did a Show for Shelby DIY very similar but much smaller scale.
      Hope this helps.

    • patty henning

      Hi Delaine, We are working on new website and updating everything. Our old shipping process was not very accurate, so we used that coupon to make up for the overcharge ( If there was one). Our new Shipping charges are up to par & acccurate. Happy Painting!

      Patty Henning Fabulous Finishes Studio 51350 Van Dyke Rd Shelby Twp, MI 48316 888-819-1490 fabulousfinishes.wordpress.com shop.fabfinisher.com

      ________________________________

  105. Hey Patty! Just wanted to share something with you, since you got me started painting my stuff.
    Had a furniture restoration furniture person over to look at some cane repair. He also has a retail store.
    After about an hour of him looking around my house (Oh! What’s that? Did you do that? What did you use to get that finish, etc.) he turned around and asked if he were to supply the furniture, would I paint it or make the doors and drawers out of pallets like I did in my MBR?
    He’d sell it on consignment with me getting 40%!
    I haven’t started yet, but that will be this week. Can you imagine!

  106. Hi Patti, First off I love your blog and live in the area and your store is amazing ! Beautiful 🙂
    I have a double laundry tub, I think it’s composite but it’s about 30 yrs. + old and stained. I don’t want (my husband doesn’t want ) to remove it to buy new and it’s in perfect shape but the stains, Do you know of any kind of paint that would work for this ? Even if I just painted the outside it would be an improvement but was hoping to paint inside and out.

    • Thanks Nancy 🙂 uuugh, i’d not be inclined to paint the inside- just me, but no matter how much you seal something, i just dont think it would go the long haul, being in constant water, or moisture etc etc…. i know you can paint the outside – i did that at the old store and used the textured basecoats and poly… you probs could use any of the paints on the outside, as long as you following the proper sealing rules…

  107. Thank you Patty I might contact a bathtub restoration company they might have an idea. Thank you again for your insight. 🙂

  108. It was so nice to see you today! I left missing workshops and had an idea I wanted to share without knowing how you really feel about doing classes. I think there might be a lot of people like me that would enjoy “paint a piece 2” or “advanced paint a piece” where you take us through the process of that dry brush, layered, blended look. Perhaps everyone brings a piece but has to use the colors you’ve selected in advance. I know I would be willing to pay more for this. Maybe you require everyone to come in with their piece already painted a base color? Just a thought…maybe it’s selfish because I miss you guys and think you’re an artistic genius! It would keep people coming back and they’d buy more product…win/win 😊. I hope you like the idea!

    • This type of workshop would require almost one on one attention, and very reliant on each person’s creative imagery – obviously what I see/think/feel will be different than what you see/think/feel or what Suzy sees/thinks/feels. Ive tried to teach more specific (like, how I do something specifically) in the past, and it was beyond frustrating – for the attendees and for me, trying to figure out how to show, or relay to them what i’m trying to do -even having to grab someones hand to move their brush or blade a certain way, and then still being frustrated because its not looking the same as how I did. Im not comfortable with that, not to mention it’s simply NOT fun
      .

      For me, everything you learn after the basics comes from USING and creating… its trial and error, letting go and letting God just create through you, defining your creative style. Finding YOUR vision. I know that sounds corny, but it’s what I believe. You’ve got everything you need at your fingertips, you just need to give yourself time to create, and to allow your skills to be honed. I paint differently now than I did ten years ago, everything takes time….

      Empowering people that have no idea that they can actually create their own fabulous pieces is what I love – showing them how they can do cool things with the paints we offer, giving them confidence to go off and start creating – to me, that’s what its always been about.

      I love our Paint A Piece Workshops for that reason, so many new faces, excited people with great projects in mind. If we can give them the boost, and offer a yummy selection of fun do-it-yourself friendly products to create with, and always be here to offer product knowledge/support (which I think our peeps do a great job with) – then we’ll see those people back, until their projects run out! Then we’ll see their friends 🙂

  109. Aileen Manelski

    Hi, I have been looking at your kitchen cabinet results in antique white, and I’m excited to use this method over my light oak cabinets! This is my problem. I currently have plain almond color solid surface counter tops ( very large kitchen and I can’t afford to get new ones). They are a “cool” color and I’m afraid if the colors I antique the cabinets are too warm they will make the counters look bad. Can you advise me on which color combination of paint and glaze would work best? I have ordered two samples from you but I cant order every possible combination. I would like the cabinets to have a smooth end result. Thanks!

  110. Aileen Manelski

    Thank You!

  111. I’m interested in distressing a stainless steel sink. What products do you recommend? Similar to this, but without out the detail painting: https://fabulousfinishes.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/1184882_10201550106691723_128094432_n1.jpg

  112. Hi Patty,
    I received the Peppercorn Texture Basecoat within a day or two of ordering it from you. Thank you so much. I’ve painted over my lovely (cough, cough) hunter green formica counters. Already they look a hundred times better. Here’s my problem that I hope you can help with. After letting them dry for almost 24 hours, I started to apply a Polycrylic sealer. This lifted the paint right off the surface. I know you use a wipe on Poly which I will try next, but before I do, have you had experience with the paint coming off when applying a sealer? How long should I wait before sealing them? Am I doing something wrong? Thank you so much for your wonderful videos, tutorials, and for your anticipated help.
    Kathy K.

    • Hi Kathy, Unusual that your paint lifted (24 hours was a good waiting period). There must have been something on your original surface. I would clean with straight white vinegar. We do always use our wipe-on poly & or Reclaim Indoor/Outdoor Sealer, though people have used their favorite top coat. Good Luck! 🙂

      On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:01 PM, Fabulously Finished wrote:

      >

  113. Good morning,
    I would like to have an old oak table painted with the English D along with the four chairs for my boyfriends man cave. Do you know of anyone that would come to the home and do this? I am NOT artistic whatsoever. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    • Hi Vicki, Our paints are SO easy to use. You won’t have to sand,strip,prime. You can always send Patty,the owner, a photo of the set with an idea of the finish & she will give you a quote ( though it will be ALOT cheaper for you to do). We do have a ‘D’ stencil, but it isn’t very big. If you are local stop in 🙂

      On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at 11:30 AM, Fabulously Finished wrote:

      >

  114. Hi, Love your work! I was looking for the Botanical Table Step by Step. When i click on the link I get the message Page not found

  115. Hello! I purchased a quart of Reclaim and a sampler size of Pebble. The textures are completely different from each other. This is my first experience with Reclaim and am unsure as to what is “normal”. The quart size is like marshmallow fluff and the sampler is a thick smooth pudding like texture. Can you tell me why there may be a difference? Thank you!

  116. Can you please describe the different colors/finishes used on the three cabinet doors from the 8/2015 post?

    Particularly like the one on the left and right.
    Thank you.

  117. I bought the pebble and cream stain color from you. I am redoing my kitchen cabinets and was wondering if you have any pictures of the pebble color with the caromal colours cream stain glaze on it. If you do not no problem. Also could you explain the best way to apply the cream colored stain.

    Do all the Caromal Colours (Bontanicals) work the same as the reclaim as for durability on kitchen cabinets or does reclaim work the best?

    • Hi Erin, There should be a pic or two of Reclaim Pebble with Cream Glaze on my Blog or Website. It is a really pretty combination. Your directions include good glazing tips ( brush or roll on, wipe back then dry brush for a nice finished look). We also have U tube videos on most of our paints and many before & afters on the Blog. Reclaim is the easiest to use on larger projects,though all of our paints are very durable if sealed properly. Happy Painting 🙂

      On Tue, Oct 6, 2015 at 3:49 PM, Fabulously Finished wrote:

      >

  118. hI Patty
    Love your work. Found an image of yours doing a Google search

    I have an old Louis VI buffet hutch I want to paint and hoping you can tell me what the technique and products I should use for my project,

    http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/25/c5/13/25c51367ca2f9506898b82df128947f0.j

    Brenda

  119. Hi Patty. Thank you for taking the time to reply. I can’t seem to paste the pic or an alternate link. Hoping to make it to your shop on vaca this summer

  120. Hi Patti,

    I am interested in gold leafing my dining room ceiling with Schaibin and really like the ones shown on your site. What is the color of the base used before applying the gold leaf? Also, do you have a video showing how you apply it and what the final coat is that goes over the gold leaf?

    Thanks,
    Shirley

    • Hi Shirley, you could use any color that a mid-gold as a base. I used to use Setcoat Woody Yellow from Faux Effects when I was still on the wall. No, I don’t have video of schabin’ing a ceiling – however I think on one the Shelby DIY TV shows I did demo it small scale – you could find that here https://store.fabfinisher.com/diy-videos/ it would be Episode 1. You can topcoat with any acrylic topcoat (solvent based), Zinsser Shellac works as well.

  121. Hi Patti,

    Thanks for your quick response! I have a few other questions.
    Does the ceiling need to be sanded?
    Can I use any latex paint for the base color?
    Does the ceiling have to be sealed with something in addition to the base coat?
    What adhesive do you prefer?
    Do you only apply the adhesive in an area at a time that will be worked or can you apply it on the entire ceiling and it will remain tacky?
    On your ceiling that was in the dining room on your website, did you add a glaze on top of the gold leaf?

    Thanks so much for your guidance!

    Shirley

    • Hi Shirley, That project was 7-8 years ago, I’m not even sure of the process i did as each one was different. When I was doing ceilings, I would research different forums for each job. There was alot of experimenting, trial & error involved. You may have to reach out to someone who is currently doing this type of work. Good Luck 🙂

      On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 11:18 AM, Fabulously Finished wrote:

      >

  122. Hi Patti,

    Is Schaibin gold leaf imitation? If so does it tarnish? Does the overall effect look as wonderful as real gold leaf?

    Shirley

  123. Hi Patty,
    I subscribe to your emails and think you are wonderful. I have a friend here in Arizona who is actually from Michigan and she takes your classes sometimes.She owns a paint store here in Fountain Hills. Not quite as large as yours. I talked to you once and ended up not ordering Reclaim. We decided to get brand new kitchen cabinets. We actually remodeled our kitchen and bathrooms. I apologize that I took your time. I just read your blog about the Amazon thing. I just want you to know if I ever want Reclaim I will order from you and have told other people how wonderful you are. Thanks again for answering all of my questions. I hope to be able to buy a cabin and then I am sure I will need to redo a kitchen.
    Thanks again.
    Miranda

  124. Hi Patty,
    I just learned about your site after watching you on Youtube,wow–I am so impressed. I live in Western NY, work full time as a teacher, and am a retailer of APC paints. I would love to learn some of your techniques with some of your other brands. Did you ever consider a 2 day seminar for out of town people like me? I actually was going to attend one in Michigan last year, but the owner became very ill and had to cancel. Just thought I would put it out there! Thanks again, can’t wait to watch more of your videos!

  125. patty. when i bring up your name why am i getting cheltenham web site. are you all the same

  126. Question…do you sell exterior paint? can you recommend a brand of exterior pt. I would like to stencil the shutters. Thanks

  127. Patti — wasn’t sure how to share before and after pictures – let me know and I will get them off to you.

  128. Can you use the glaze over a kitchen cabinets that was painted by Benjamin Moore Advance(alkyd)? If i can, do i need to use a topcoat?

  129. Hi. I have a den and master bedroom that we would like to have redone, preferably in a faux finish. But, we would your design/consult. Please contact me at 586.265.9765

  130. Do you have chocolate texture?

  131. How do I contact you regarding custom building an entertainment center to hold a 78″ tv. My space is 10′ wide and 10′ ceilings.

  132. Hi there.. I’m a faux finisher in Houston and ran across your website. Do you sell the chipping creme?

    Thanks Melanie

  133. Do you sell a product which will fill in the grain on oak cabinets,similiar to the red oak with the open grain in the kitchen you transformed to a dark brown with decorative door inserts which looed beautiful.But the grain still shows through as I have experienced myself trying to sand and paint this type of wood.Do you have any suggestions? Thank you.

    • HI DEB – no, we really don’t send any products to ‘fill’ – that would be nightmare to me… we do have the textured basecoat by caromal that is thick, and I guess if you’bladed’ it over your grain it would fill, or you could even probably use our texture base plaster, but then you’d have to sand it, and go from there … we find most of our customers actually prefer the cabinets we’ve done that are painted and glazed, and still show some grain, more noticeable in certain lighting. In their mind, solid wood cabinets are typically costlier than melamine, pressed wood panels, veneer, etc – and when glazed look even more authentic – it updates the ‘color’ tone but still keeps the character. if you want that to completely disappear, i’d say save the grief and swap out your doors – not sure you’ll ever get a perfect non-grain cabinet finish…jmo.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s